World Time by Patek Philippe
Intro
In the mid-1930s Louis Cottier invented a new horological complication for wristwatches, the Heures Universelles. The watch is equipped with two rotating rings. The user sets his position to the local time displayed by the central hands. The time in all cities of the world is a direct reading of the junction between the two rings.
Patek Philippe, which had delivered their Supercomplication watch to Graves in 1933, are eager for any invention. Their first integration tests of the Heures Universelles (HU) are carried out in 1937 with the support of the inventor.
These early units are experimental. They re-use old movements, perhaps chosen from their availability in the warehouse. The 96 HU is known in two units and the 515 HU in three units. Both 96 HU Calatrava and at least one of the rectangular 515 HU are assembled with cases in the same range of serial numbers. Both types refer to 28 cities.
Made in 1937 as a 515, a unique rectangular galbé pink gold World Time was sold for CHF 550K by Antiquorum on April 10, 1994, lot 502.
The rotation of the city ring was not compatible with the 515 but Patek Philippe did not give up. The 542 HU, assembled in five units, is the last model of prototypes before the marketing begins in 1939 under the references 1416 HU and 1415 HU.
The 96 HU has long been considered as a unique piece, fueling frustration among experts because no photo was available despite an auction in 1969. It was sold for CHF 410K by Christie's on November 14, 2011.
The second watch surfaced in 2011. Unrestored, it was sold as is by Sotheby's on December 6, 2011 for $ 480K, lot 386 and for CHF 390K by Phillips on June 27, 2020, lot 64.
Patek Philippe, which had delivered their Supercomplication watch to Graves in 1933, are eager for any invention. Their first integration tests of the Heures Universelles (HU) are carried out in 1937 with the support of the inventor.
These early units are experimental. They re-use old movements, perhaps chosen from their availability in the warehouse. The 96 HU is known in two units and the 515 HU in three units. Both 96 HU Calatrava and at least one of the rectangular 515 HU are assembled with cases in the same range of serial numbers. Both types refer to 28 cities.
Made in 1937 as a 515, a unique rectangular galbé pink gold World Time was sold for CHF 550K by Antiquorum on April 10, 1994, lot 502.
The rotation of the city ring was not compatible with the 515 but Patek Philippe did not give up. The 542 HU, assembled in five units, is the last model of prototypes before the marketing begins in 1939 under the references 1416 HU and 1415 HU.
The 96 HU has long been considered as a unique piece, fueling frustration among experts because no photo was available despite an auction in 1969. It was sold for CHF 410K by Christie's on November 14, 2011.
The second watch surfaced in 2011. Unrestored, it was sold as is by Sotheby's on December 6, 2011 for $ 480K, lot 386 and for CHF 390K by Phillips on June 27, 2020, lot 64.
1943 Reference 605
2024 SOLD for CHF 3.05M by Antiquorum
The pocket watch reference 605 HU is technically an equivalent to the wristwatch 1415 HU. The time can be updated to another city simply by turning the bezel.
82 units were produced in yellow or pink gold cases between the late 1930s and the early 1950s. This model was nicknamed the World Time Dress Watch. The dials were inspected by Louis Cottier who signed them on their reverse.
A few examples had a cloisonné enamel dial. They are referenced with the suffix DE for Décor Emaillé. A unique Neptune specimen is kept in the collection of the brand.
A very early 605 HU DE has just surfaced. It had been made in 1943 in an adjacent movement number from the Neptune. It was sold in 1946 and treasured unused in a safe by a Spanish family.
The dial of this pink gold watch is a highly rare cloisonné world map of which only two other examples are known. Its combination of colors is unique. The cities are marked in French with Paris and London in the same time zone, an information obsolete since 1940 when Paris was switched over to Central European Time.
This 605 HU DE was sold for CHF 3.05M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M for sale by Antiquorum on May 12, 2024, lot 591.
The probably unique yellow gold special theme Star Dragon, made in 1944, was sold for CHF 965K by Phillips on November 7, 2015, lot 164.
A pink gold North America 605 HU DE made in 1948 was sold for CHF 1.17M by Christie's on May 10, 2021, lot 117.
82 units were produced in yellow or pink gold cases between the late 1930s and the early 1950s. This model was nicknamed the World Time Dress Watch. The dials were inspected by Louis Cottier who signed them on their reverse.
A few examples had a cloisonné enamel dial. They are referenced with the suffix DE for Décor Emaillé. A unique Neptune specimen is kept in the collection of the brand.
A very early 605 HU DE has just surfaced. It had been made in 1943 in an adjacent movement number from the Neptune. It was sold in 1946 and treasured unused in a safe by a Spanish family.
The dial of this pink gold watch is a highly rare cloisonné world map of which only two other examples are known. Its combination of colors is unique. The cities are marked in French with Paris and London in the same time zone, an information obsolete since 1940 when Paris was switched over to Central European Time.
This 605 HU DE was sold for CHF 3.05M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M for sale by Antiquorum on May 12, 2024, lot 591.
The probably unique yellow gold special theme Star Dragon, made in 1944, was sold for CHF 965K by Phillips on November 7, 2015, lot 164.
A pink gold North America 605 HU DE made in 1948 was sold for CHF 1.17M by Christie's on May 10, 2021, lot 117.
Reference 1415
Intro
After the ephemeral 96 HU and 515 HU references used by Patek Philippe in the development phase, the reference 1415 HU released in 1939 marks a stabilization of that offer. 115 pieces were made. The 1415 HU will be replaced in 1953 by the 2523 HU with double crown.
Patek Philippe began in 1937 to assemble World Time watches (Heures Universelles, HU) with the movement patented and supplied by Louis Cottier, without obtaining an exclusivity. A 24 hour disc rotates counter clockwise in synchronisation with the hands. A ring on the bezel refers to 28 places, later extended. The time everywhere around the world is read directly by the position of these inscriptions in front of the rotating disc.
In 1940 Patek Philippe created specially a customer under the reference 1415-1 a unique World Time chronograph wristwatch, in yellow gold, with square push buttons and the names of 33 places of the world. It was sold for CHF 990K by Antiquorum on October 15-16, 1994, lot 516.
Launched in 1948 the very rare 1415 HU DE is an aesthetic refinement. DE stands for Décor émail. The dial is illustrated in cloisonné.
Patek Philippe began in 1937 to assemble World Time watches (Heures Universelles, HU) with the movement patented and supplied by Louis Cottier, without obtaining an exclusivity. A 24 hour disc rotates counter clockwise in synchronisation with the hands. A ring on the bezel refers to 28 places, later extended. The time everywhere around the world is read directly by the position of these inscriptions in front of the rotating disc.
In 1940 Patek Philippe created specially a customer under the reference 1415-1 a unique World Time chronograph wristwatch, in yellow gold, with square push buttons and the names of 33 places of the world. It was sold for CHF 990K by Antiquorum on October 15-16, 1994, lot 516.
Launched in 1948 the very rare 1415 HU DE is an aesthetic refinement. DE stands for Décor émail. The dial is illustrated in cloisonné.
1
1946-1950 Platinum with Silver Dial
2002 SOLD for CHF 6.6M (worth at that time US $ 4M) by Antiquorum
The only known example in platinum of the reference 1415 by Patek Philippe is embedded with a movement recorded in 1946 and completed in 1949-1950. The case was made by Wenger in 1949-1950 and the matte silver dial with applied platinum Arabic numerals by Stern Frères in the same date range.
It was sold by Antiquorum on April 13, 2002 for CHF 6.6M worth at that time US $ 4M, lot 608, and for HK $ 14.7M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2507.
It was sold by Antiquorum on April 13, 2002 for CHF 6.6M worth at that time US $ 4M, lot 608, and for HK $ 14.7M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2507.
2
1949-1953 Vieux Continents in Pink Gold
2021 SOLD for HK $ 17.7M by Christie's
The cloisonné enamel dials with continent maps appeared from 1948 on Heures Universelles pocket watches and wristwatches.
Two wristwatches 1415 were made in pink gold with the figure of the Vieux Continents (Europe, Asia, Australia and Africa). They have adjacent movement numbers attributed in 1949. The dials by Stern and the cases by Wenger were made ca 1952-1953.
One of them was sold for HK $ 17.7M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2508. The other example was sold for CHF 1.35M by Antiquorum on November 14, 1999, lot 520. It has been sold to its first owner in 1954.
A yellow gold 1415 with a 1949 movement and the Eurasia cloisonné enamel dial (without Africa and Australia) was sold for CHF 970K by Phillips on May 13, 2018, lot 268.
A 1415 in pink gold with the dial of the Vieux Continents was sold for CHF 1.35M by Antiquorum on November 14, 1999, lot 520. Made in 1949, it has been sold to its first owner in 1954.
Two wristwatches 1415 were made in pink gold with the figure of the Vieux Continents (Europe, Asia, Australia and Africa). They have adjacent movement numbers attributed in 1949. The dials by Stern and the cases by Wenger were made ca 1952-1953.
One of them was sold for HK $ 17.7M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2508. The other example was sold for CHF 1.35M by Antiquorum on November 14, 1999, lot 520. It has been sold to its first owner in 1954.
A yellow gold 1415 with a 1949 movement and the Eurasia cloisonné enamel dial (without Africa and Australia) was sold for CHF 970K by Phillips on May 13, 2018, lot 268.
A 1415 in pink gold with the dial of the Vieux Continents was sold for CHF 1.35M by Antiquorum on November 14, 1999, lot 520. Made in 1949, it has been sold to its first owner in 1954.
Reference 2523
Intro
In 1953 the reference 2523 replaces the 1415 after a modification of the Cottier Heures Universelles calibre. A dual crown now enables to change the reference setting of the time zone. The user sets his position to the local time displayed by the central hands. The time in 41 places in the world is a direct reading of the junction between the two rings.
The 2523 is a luxury watch, most often equipped with an enameled dial. The case embedding the double crown is a technical feat.
Two batches were produced in two ranges of movement numbers for a possible high total of 5 + 20 watches or slightly more. About half of them have a continent enamel figure. Only one example, made in 1955, is known in white gold.
The 2523 is in turn replaced in 1957 by its variant 2523/1 with a simplification of the lugs.
The 2523 is a luxury watch, most often equipped with an enameled dial. The case embedding the double crown is a technical feat.
Two batches were produced in two ranges of movement numbers for a possible high total of 5 + 20 watches or slightly more. About half of them have a continent enamel figure. Only one example, made in 1955, is known in white gold.
The 2523 is in turn replaced in 1957 by its variant 2523/1 with a simplification of the lugs.
1
1953 Eurasia in Yellow Gold 720304/306201
2024 SOLD for HK$ 65M by Christie's
A 2523 from the first batch with the 18k yellow gold case and the Eurasia cloisonné dial was sold by Antiquorum for CHF 1.76M on October 19, 2002, lot 24 and for HK $ 65M by Christie's on May 26, 2024, lot 2256. Its dial was made in 1952 by Stern, the movement in 1953 by Gerlach and the case in 1954-1955.
Two other 2523 Eurasia are known. One of them is narrated below. The other example is in the Patek Philippe museum.
Two other 2523 Eurasia are known. One of them is narrated below. The other example is in the Patek Philippe museum.
2
1953 Eurasia in Yellow Gold 720301/306193
2021 SOLD for CHF 7M by Phillips
Three 2523 from the first 1953 batch of movements are fitted with an Eurasia cloisonné enamel dial. The Eurasia design is a reuse from one of the dials of the 1415 in flat colors. The graduation of the enamel colors of the 2523 is arguably unprecedented.
The second 1953 batch was fitted with North America, South America, enamel blue and guilloché dials, with no Eurasia added.
One of the three Eurasia 2523s is a new discovery. It has the lowest case number in the whole 2523 reference and the lowest movement number associated with a 2523 Eurasia dial.
It was sold for CHF 7M by Phillips on May 8, 2021, lot 33. Please watch the video shared by Phillips where the features of this masterpiece are narrated in details by Aurel Bacs.
The second 1953 batch was fitted with North America, South America, enamel blue and guilloché dials, with no Eurasia added.
One of the three Eurasia 2523s is a new discovery. It has the lowest case number in the whole 2523 reference and the lowest movement number associated with a 2523 Eurasia dial.
It was sold for CHF 7M by Phillips on May 8, 2021, lot 33. Please watch the video shared by Phillips where the features of this masterpiece are narrated in details by Aurel Bacs.
3
1953 Guilloché Gold in Yellow Gold 720300/305699
2021 SOLD for CHF 2.67M by Christie's
The production by Patek Philippe of the reference 2523 began in 1953. The lowest movement number is 720'300.
The yellow gold watch embedding the 720'300 is fitted with the earliest known wave guilloché gold dial. Its indexes are raised in yellow gold. It was supplied to its first owner in 1958.
This piece nicknamed L'Heure d'Or was sold for CHF 2.67M by Christie's on November 8, 2021, lot 88.
A wristwatch from the first 2523 batch was sold for CHF 1.9M by Antiquorum on May 12, 2024, lot 590. Its case is in 18k yellow gold and the dial is a guilloché gold. It was assembled in 1953 and sold from factory in 1954.
The yellow gold watch embedding the 720'300 is fitted with the earliest known wave guilloché gold dial. Its indexes are raised in yellow gold. It was supplied to its first owner in 1958.
This piece nicknamed L'Heure d'Or was sold for CHF 2.67M by Christie's on November 8, 2021, lot 88.
A wristwatch from the first 2523 batch was sold for CHF 1.9M by Antiquorum on May 12, 2024, lot 590. Its case is in 18k yellow gold and the dial is a guilloché gold. It was assembled in 1953 and sold from factory in 1954.
4
1953-1954 Ocean Blue in Pink Gold
2019 SOLD for HK$ 70M by Christie's
A pink gold 2523 in excellent condition without any sign of repair surfaced in 2010. It was twice sold by Christie's, for CHF 2.7M on November 15, 2010, lot 114, and for HK$ 70M on November 23, 2019, lot 2201. Please watch the video prepared by the auction house.
The dial and movement were made in 1953 and the case in 1954. The centre of its dial is not in cloisonné but is monochrome in a beautifully translucent ocean blue enamel. The watch was sold to Gobbi in Milan in 1957. It is the only 2523 to have on its dial a double signature of Patek Philippe and a retailer, a feature that is today eagerly sought after by watch collectors. The movement is from the second 2523 batch.
The dial and movement were made in 1953 and the case in 1954. The centre of its dial is not in cloisonné but is monochrome in a beautifully translucent ocean blue enamel. The watch was sold to Gobbi in Milan in 1957. It is the only 2523 to have on its dial a double signature of Patek Philippe and a retailer, a feature that is today eagerly sought after by watch collectors. The movement is from the second 2523 batch.
5
1955 North America in Yellow Gold
2023 SOLD for HK$ 67M by Christie's
Three known watches from the second 2523 batch have been cased in 18k yellow gold with the North America cloisonné enamel dial, also featuring Central America and Cuba.
In an exceptional original condition, one of them made in 1955 was sold by Christie's for CHF 2.77M on May 14, 2012, lot 88, and for HK $ 67M on May 28, 2023, lot 2361.
This example illustrated the front catalogue cover of the prestigious sale by Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 in Geneva, celebrating the 150th anniversary of the brand, where it was listed as lot 294.
In an exceptional original condition, one of them made in 1955 was sold by Christie's for CHF 2.77M on May 14, 2012, lot 88, and for HK $ 67M on May 28, 2023, lot 2361.
This example illustrated the front catalogue cover of the prestigious sale by Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 in Geneva, celebrating the 150th anniversary of the brand, where it was listed as lot 294.
1966 Reference 2523/1
2020 SOLD for CHF 5M by Phillips
The 2523 is too expensive and some movements had been left unused at the factory. Its 2523/1 evolution is an attempt to simplify the assembly by changing the design of the lugs. The cloisonné dials are no more offered.
Once more the customers do not follow and this variant also is extremely rare. A first batch in yellow gold and silvered dial has 5 located units from a total number range of 10.
The second batch immediately follows on the movement numbers, in yellow or pink gold and machine turned guilloché silvered dial. It has 8 located units from a total number range of 9.
A 1965 yellow gold 2523/1 with rare luminous hands was sold by Christie's on May 22, 2021 for HK $ 16M, lot 2509. It belongs to the second series with guilloché dial.
Another yellow gold 2523/1 was sold for CHF 1.75M by Phillips on May 11, 2024, lot 55. Please watch the video shared by the auction house. Its guilloché center decorated in exquisite lozenges is in pristine condition.
That watch had been sold by Christie's for CHF 1.12M on May 16, 2016, lot 117. The catalogue referred to a Patek Philippe archive recording that it had been manufactured in 1965 and sold by the brand in 1973. According to the archives of Louis Cottier, it was part of the very last batch of such plates delivered to Patek Philippe in 1962.
A 2523/1 in pink gold with guilloché dial assembled in 1966 was sold by the brand in 1973. Having resurfaced in time capsule condition, it was sold by Phillips for HK$ 19.5M on May 31, 2016, lot 373, and for CHF 5M on November 6, 2020, lot 39.
Once more the customers do not follow and this variant also is extremely rare. A first batch in yellow gold and silvered dial has 5 located units from a total number range of 10.
The second batch immediately follows on the movement numbers, in yellow or pink gold and machine turned guilloché silvered dial. It has 8 located units from a total number range of 9.
A 1965 yellow gold 2523/1 with rare luminous hands was sold by Christie's on May 22, 2021 for HK $ 16M, lot 2509. It belongs to the second series with guilloché dial.
Another yellow gold 2523/1 was sold for CHF 1.75M by Phillips on May 11, 2024, lot 55. Please watch the video shared by the auction house. Its guilloché center decorated in exquisite lozenges is in pristine condition.
That watch had been sold by Christie's for CHF 1.12M on May 16, 2016, lot 117. The catalogue referred to a Patek Philippe archive recording that it had been manufactured in 1965 and sold by the brand in 1973. According to the archives of Louis Cottier, it was part of the very last batch of such plates delivered to Patek Philippe in 1962.
A 2523/1 in pink gold with guilloché dial assembled in 1966 was sold by the brand in 1973. Having resurfaced in time capsule condition, it was sold by Phillips for HK$ 19.5M on May 31, 2016, lot 373, and for CHF 5M on November 6, 2020, lot 39.
2017 Reference 5531R-010
2021 SOLD for $ 2.2M by Sotheby's
The complication of the Heures Universelles (HU) is more spectacular than useful. It had been invented by Louis Cottier in 1937, when advances in aeronautics and telecommunications foresaw a globalization of business. The generalization of daylight saving time during the oil crisis of the 1970s makes this concept ineffective. Its mechanical setting is obsolete at the age of the integrated circuit.
Patek Philippe had no exclusivity on the Cottier patent but has never stopped proposing HU variants for prestige. The reference 5531R released in 2017 for celebrating a 10 day retrospective exhibition of the brand in New York combines the Heures Universelles with a chiming minute repeater in a 42 mm case.
Ten units were assembled with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Manhattan skyline, five of them by day and five by night.
A 18k pink gold 5531R-010 with the Manhattan by day was sold for $ 2.2M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Sotheby's on December 9, 2021, lot 148. It is complete with all its accessories and unworn.
Limited series of that world time with repeater were released with other dial figures from 2018 to 2023 when it was replaced by the 5531G.
Another one of the five 5531R-010 with the Manhattan skyline by day was sold for $ 1.5M by Sotheby's on June 9, 2023, lot 135.
Patek Philippe had no exclusivity on the Cottier patent but has never stopped proposing HU variants for prestige. The reference 5531R released in 2017 for celebrating a 10 day retrospective exhibition of the brand in New York combines the Heures Universelles with a chiming minute repeater in a 42 mm case.
Ten units were assembled with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Manhattan skyline, five of them by day and five by night.
A 18k pink gold 5531R-010 with the Manhattan by day was sold for $ 2.2M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Sotheby's on December 9, 2021, lot 148. It is complete with all its accessories and unworn.
Limited series of that world time with repeater were released with other dial figures from 2018 to 2023 when it was replaced by the 5531G.
Another one of the five 5531R-010 with the Manhattan skyline by day was sold for $ 1.5M by Sotheby's on June 9, 2023, lot 135.
