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Perpetual Calendar Chronograph by Patek Philippe

Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
See also : Time pieces  New watches  OnlyWatch  Patek Philippe 
​Chronology : 1943  2015

Reference 1518
​Intro

During the 1930s Patek Philippe masters all the complications and most of their combinations. The brand's effort to make new prototypes and to add new high-end references to its catalog is not interrupted by the war.

The reference 130, launched commercially in 1934, is a single-push chronograph using the calibre 13. It is equipped with two subsidiary dials, one indicating the seconds up to the minute and the other the minutes up to the half hour. Produced from 1940, the reference 1491 is a watch without chronograph with a more elegant design than the already classic Calatrava.

In production from 1941 to 1954, the reference 1518 is the first commercial wristwatch from any brand to offer altogether these two appealing complications which are the chronograph and the perpetual calendar, in addition to the moon phases.
 

​281 watches are built in this reference which is an average of 20 per year. The list of customers includes the kings of Egypt, Jordan and Romania and the boxing champion Sugar Ray Robinson, and also the all time top collector Henry Graves Jr.

Most 1518s are in yellow gold, plus an estimated 58 in pink gold.

1
1943 Stainless Steel
​2025 SOLD for CHF 14.2M by Phillips

Until the second world war and a little beyond, the use of stainless steel is exceptional in the high-end wristwatches made by Patek Philippe. Owners identify luxury with gold or platinum. Steel watches are produced on special request from customers who fear some wearing related to their own heavy use.

The 1518 in stainless steel is extremely rare : only four units are known. This rarity is logical : we must indeed recognize some contradiction between the need for a perpetual calendar and the fear of wear.

The first two 1518s in stainless steel were manufactured in 1943 and sold together in February 1944 to a Hungarian retailer who also imported later the No. 3. Their case was made by Croisier later known as Genevor and the dial by Stern Frères.

The No. 1 remaining in an immaculate condition had probably been intended as a spare by its unidentified first owner. It was sold by Phillips for CHF 11M on
 November 12, 2016, lot 38 and for CHF 14.2M on November 8, 2025, lot 23. The 2025 video is shared by the auction house and narrated by Aurel Bacs.
​
Grok thought :

Quote

Hodinkee @Hodinkee Nov 12, 2016
Breaking News Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 Sells For Over $11,000,000 At Phillips Geneva http://bit.ly/2eSH6tN
  • This 2016 Hodinkee post announces the record-breaking auction sale of a 1943 stainless steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph for CHF 11,002,000 at Phillips Geneva, marking the highest price for any wristwatch at auction at the time.
  • The Ref. 1518, Patek's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph from 1941-1950s, exists in just 281 examples total, with only four in stainless steel—rarer than gold or platinum versions, as steel was reserved for practical use by professionals.
  • This specific watch, the first steel 1518 (stamped "1"), originally sold in 1944 to a Budapest buyer amid WWII, resurfaces for auction in November 2025 at Phillips with a CHF 8-16 million estimate, highlighting enduring collector demand.

additional information by Grok in an invited query from the above thought :

​There are four known stainless steel examples of the Patek Philippe Reference 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph, out of 281 total examples produced across all metals from 1941 to the mid-1950s. All four were manufactured in 1943–1944 during World War II, measure 35mm in diameter, and feature manually wound movements based on a modified Valjoux ébauche finished by Patek Philippe. Three share sequential Genevor SA cases (numbers 508473, 508474, and 508475) with pierced lugs and are marked "1," "2," or "3" inside the casebacks, indicating their production order; these were originally sold to Hungarian retailer Joseph Lang in Budapest. The fourth has a distinct Wenger case (number 6335561) with wider, solid lugs. All have been handled at least once by prominent dealer Davide Parmegiani, and none are housed in the Patek Philippe Museum—contrary to some rumors—as they remain in private collections.
Time Pieces
Patek Philippe
1943

2
​1946 Pink on Pink
2023 SOLD for $ 3.9M by Sotheby's

A wristwatch reference 1518 was sold for $ 3.9M from a lower estimate of $ 2.5M by Sotheby's on June 9, 2023, lot 38.

Assembled in 1946 after slight design changes in the Vichet case, it features the most exquisite combination of the period, a salmon pink dial matching a 18k pink gold case. It predates the deletion of "& Co" in the Patek Philippe dial mark. The calendar wheel is in French.

Previously unknown, this pink on pink had remained with the family of its first owner, including untouched in a drawer for three decades. Its condition is exceptional.

3
1947 Pink on Pink
2025 SOLD for CHF 3.6M by PhIllips

An unrestored pink on pink 1518 made in 1947 was sold by Phillips for CHF 3.3M on May 8, 2022, lot 213 and for CHF 3.6M on November 9, 2025, lot 144.

4
1948 Pink on Pink
2021 SOLD for $ 9.6M by Sotheby's

An immaculate one-owner Patek Philippe wristwatch reference 1518 was sold for $ 9.6M from a lower estimate of $ 1.2M by Sotheby's on December 9, 2021, lot 55.

This watch made in 1948 was sold in 1951 to a first cousin of King Farouk. Previously unknown, it was discovered as a completely original time capsule in a safety deposit box after the recent death of the prince. It is still accompanied by its presentation case, certificate of origin and operating instructions to adjust the calendar.

This 1518 is in the very rare pink on pink configuration, specially designed for a warm tone effect associating a pink dial to the 18k pink gold of the case. About 13 other examples are known. Most of the other pink gold 1518s have a silvered dial.

1943 Reference 1527
​2010 SOLD for CHF 6.25M by Christie's

A Patek Philippe reference 1527 assembled in 1943 was sold for CHF 6.25M from a lower estimate of CHF 1.5M by Christie's on May 10, 2010. Fitted with chronograph, perpetual calendar and moon phases, this watch has the features of the high end models of its time, but its barrel ("tonneau") shape made it a precursor to future refinements.

1527 was manufactured in two copies only. So it is a kind of prototype or custom order carefully kept in mind by the designers of the firm in Geneva waiting for better post war times.

It was unknown to the experts before the sudden appearance of the copy of Christie's on the market 20 years ago. The other example, simpler (no chronograph), was a surprise when the son of a former owner of Patek Philippe gave it to the museum of the brand.

Reference 2499
Intro

Two references of wristwatches with perpetual calendar and moon phases were introduced nearly simultaneously in the early 1950s. The 2499 is a chronograph and the 2497 has the centre seconds. Their cases are similar except that the 2497 does not have the push button of the chronograph. At that time, no other manufacturer was able to produce a wristwatch with such a complication.

These models were assembled gradually over a very long time. The total production of the 2499 is 349 units from 1950 to 1985. The 2497 is even rarer : 115 units, from 1951 to 1963, or 179 units when adding its waterproof version 2438/1.

2497 and 2499 were available in the three golds. The first cases were basically manufactured by Emile Vichet.

The special 2497 made in 1954 for Haile Selassie was sold by Christie's for CHF 2.9M on May 15, 2017, lot 166. Made in the same year in white gold, a 2497 was sold by Phillips for CHF 2.8M on November 5, 2021, lot 122. Also manufactured in 1954, a unique 2497 in platinum was sold for CHF 3.2M by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 187.

The great success of the combinations of the 2499 was maintained up to current day with later references 3970, 5970 and 5270.

1
1952 Yellow Gold for Asprey
2018 SOLD for CHF 3.9M by Sotheby's

A 2499 assembled in 1952 in a yellow gold Wenger case was sold for CHF 3.9M by Sotheby's on November 13, 2018 from a lower estimate of CHF 2M, lot 220.

It was sold by Patek Philippe in 1956 and signed by the retailer Asprey in the Moon phase subdial.

2
​1952 Yellow Gold for Serpico y Laino
2021 SOLD for CHF 3.54M by Phillips

A yellow gold Patek Philippe 2499 First Series has just surfaced in an untouched condition after six decades in a safe. It is described as "astonishingly well preserved".

This watch has been assembled in 1952 with the earliest known 2499 movement embedded in an authenticated Wenger case which was to replace the Vichet case for this reference.

It was retailed in 1956 by Serpico y Laino. The dial, case and clasp are further factory stamped for this Caracas retailer specializing in Patek Philippe and Rolex. It is fitted with its original yellow gold Gay Frères bracelet stamped SYL for the retailer.

It was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 63.

​Another Serpico y Laino 2499 has the next serial numbers of movement and case from the example above but with another bracelet. It had been delivered on the same day to the Caracas retailer, certainly for the same customer. Surfaced by the children of the original owners as a time capsule in excellent original condition, it was sold for CHF 3.25M by Christie's on November 12, 2018, lot 234.

Response by Grok :

​Quote :

Christie's @ChristiesInc Nov 8, 2018
Widely acknowledged as one of the world's greatest watch models created, discover what makes this Serpico y Laino Patek Philippe reference 2499 so rare and so important http://bit.ly/2yYkNw4
​
  • The Patek Philippe reference 2499, featured in the Christie's post from 2018, is a rare perpetual calendar chronograph originally retailed by Serpico y Laino, a now-defunct firm whose stamped timepieces, including this model, fetched over $3 million at a 2021 Phillips auction due to its pristine condition and historical significance.
  • This watch’s discovery in 2018, after over 60 years in a safe, rewrote Patek Philippe scholarship, revealing it as the earliest known example with a Wenger case (movement number 868'340), challenging the assumption that earlier models lacked such craftsmanship.
  • Studies on horological preservation, like those in the Journal of Cultural Heritage (2020), highlight how minimal exposure to air and light preserved this watch’s enamel dial, explaining its exceptional value compared to typical vintage watches degraded by environmental factors.

3
​1957 Pink Gold
2022 SOLD for HK$ 60M by Sotheby's

A pink gold 2499 assembled in 1951 in the first series with the Vichet case was sold for CHF 2.63M by Christie's on November 9, 2014, lot 59. It is a twin sister with adjacent movement and case numbers of the 2499 sold on October 19, 2002 for CHF 3.2M by Antiquorum, lot 82.

On May 14, 2012, Christie's sold for CHF 2.55M a 2499 in pink gold made in 1950, lot 84, then fresh to the market. It was sold for CHF 3.1M by Sotheby's on November 10, 2024, lot 16. It is featured in the video shared by Sotheby's to announce the sale.

The Patek Philippe archives confirm that this example has been manufactured in 1950 but it has surprisingly a Wenger case, previously considered as later than the Vichet case. Its position in the chronology has not been explained. Its case number is higher than the two examples above. It was sold to its first owner in 1956. 


In the 2499 first series, two other watches have been assembled in pink gold by Wenger. The first series of the 2499 had square chronograph buttons and applied Arabic numerals.

The second series of cases, entrusted to Wenger, have a rounded back side and a simplified shape of the lugs. The dial has baton or Arabic numerals. From that series, nine units are known in pink gold.

One of them made in 1957 and retailed in 1958 was sold for CHF 2.74M by Christie's on May 14, 2007, lot 158, fresh to the market, and by Sotheby's for HK $ 60M on April 25, 2022, lot 2018 and for $ 4.3M on June 10, 2025, lot 21. Signed by Gobbi Milano in the Moon phase subdial, it is the only pink gold 2499 2nd series to have the mark of a retailer. It is in a very original condition. This example has baton numerals. 

​A pink gold 2499 was sold for CHF 2.45M by Phillips on May 9, 2021, lot 208. Made in 1957, it belongs to the second series. 

​A pink gold third series 2499 made in 1971 was sold by Phillips on November 12, 2017 for CHF 2.8M, 
lot 187.

In 1987 the last two 2499 were the only examples of that model made in platinum. One of them coming from the collection of Eric Clapton was sold for CHF 3.44M by Christie's on November 12, 2012, lot 151. Its twin watch is kept by the firm.

​2015 Reference 5016A-010
2015 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips for OnlyWatch

Organized every second year by the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, the OnlyWatch charity sale requires the offer by each participating brand of a watch guaranteed as unique of its kind.

Patek Philippe responds most often with a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions : titanium in 2007 and 2013, steel in 2011 and 2015. The Patek Philippe 5016A-010 was sold by Phillips on November 7, 2015 for CHF 7.3M.
New Watches
OnlyWatch
2015

2017 Reference 5208T-010
2017 SOLD for CHF 6.2M by Christie's for OnlyWatch

The 2017 OnlyWatch event was entrusted to Christie's on November 11.

Patek Philippe regularly offers a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions.

The titanium reappeared in 2017 with the unique Patek Philippe 5208T-010, lot 12 sold for CHF 6.2M.

Released in 2011 with a platinum 5208P version, the 5208 is a triple complication watch : minute repeater, mono-pusher chronograph and perpetual calendar with apertures and phases of the moon taking into account the leap year. It is resistant to moisture and dust but not to water. Its removable back case can be replaced by a transparent back in sapphire crystal providing visibility onto the inside. It is assembled with more than 700 parts.

In the ever-improving range of the Patek Philippe complication watches, the 5208 is the first wristwatch whose triple complication includes a chronograph, unlike the 5207 released in 2008 with a tourbillon.
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