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Modern Watches

Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
​See also : Rolex  Daniels 
​Chronology : 1993

1982 Space Traveller I by Daniels
​2019 SOLD for £ 3.6M by Sotheby's

In the era of quartz watches, George Daniels managed to demonstrate that mechanical watches could still be fully competitive. 

A repair craftsman of great skill, he became a specialist of Breguet and then made ​​his own watches with an increasing complexity. In 1980, 157 years after the master's death, he is the first inventor to patent a basic innovation : his coaxial escapement reduces the friction to the point that mechanical watches no longer need a lubricant.

His dials, hands, cases, movements and assembly were hand made ​​entirely by him from scratch in his workshop of the Isle of Man in the middle of the Irish sea. His understanding of mechanics was such that he made very few preliminary drawings for developing a new complication. The very design of the dials is in the aesthetic style of Breguet enhanced by guilloché.

His effectiveness was outstanding. The watches equipped with his coaxial escapement are reaching an accuracy below 1 second per month, better than any quartz watch in his time.

In 2006 Sotheby's devoted an exhibition to his work in London. 
Daniels was a lover of any great mechanics. The exceptional Bentley Blower racing car sold for £ 5M by Bonhams in 2012 came from his collection.

Throughout his career 
George Daniels has imitated and improved the most daring complications of pocket watches, often taking Breguet as an example. For the sidereal hour, his model was George Margetts, a contemporary of Breguet who worked in London. Daniels however did not emulate another remarkable specialty of Margetts, the tidal dial.

The equation of time is the difference between the apparent time, which can also be read on a sundial, and the sidereal time which takes its reference in the position of the fixed stars. This difference is an annual cycle due to the obliquity of the Earth and the ellipticity of its orbit.

The first pocket watch in which Daniels included the equation of time is his ninth opus, Elsom II, in 1975.

George Daniels was known for his wit. In 1979 he states that the accuracy of measurement obtained by Margetts, 1.8 seconds per year, is not sufficient for the control of time by an astronaut on his way to Mars. An astronomer from Cambridge University calculates for him a ratio between the two escapement wheels that will reduce the variance to 0.4 seconds per year.

The first pocket watch incorporating these new data is George Daniels' fifteenth opus, the Space Traveller, which also offers the annual calendar and the phases of the Moon. In 1982, shortly after finishing his Space Traveller, Daniels sold it to a collector, probably to meet a prior commitment.

The Space Traveller I was sold for £ 3.6M from a lower estimate of £ 700K by Sotheby's on July 2, 2019, lot 143.

Frustrated that he had parted away from his Space Traveller I, 
George Daniels realized in 1983 the Space Traveller II, inspired from the I to which he added a chronograph and a thermometer. He did not let go this specimen. 

Based on a different denting of the two wheels, Daniels had been able to realize a watch compensating at the will of the user the difference of 3.555 minutes per day between solar and sidereal times.

Well aware that it was a sensational horological feat, Dr Daniels exhibited it sometimes at events as a dress watch, stating that it was the suitable instrument to control the time in a long telephone conversation during a trip to Mars.

The Space Traveller II was sold by Sotheby's for £ 3.2M on September 19, 2017, lot 121.
Daniels

(1981)-1983 Rolex 6263 ex Paul Newman
2020 SOLD for $ 5.5M by Phillips

Rolex launches in 1963 the Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 for the use of drivers of endurance racing cars. The brand believes that other customers will be proud to own such a watch with high-end performance. Sales are disappointing. To revive the model in late 1966 Rolex offers more stylish dials with a choice in a range of pleasing colors and with better designed numerals. This model is referred as 'exotic'.

Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.

Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".

Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. After the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by a group of collectors and dealers without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).

Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage was sold for $ 17.8M by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, lot 8. Its consignor was James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.

This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. It is the first of three watches discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.

Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph
Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.

For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.

The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.

Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.

Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.

When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips in 2017 for $ 17.8M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.

His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch was sold for $ 5.5M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Phillips on December 12, 2020, lot 38.​
Rolex

from 1983 Swatch

1
Blum Collection
​​2011 SOLD for HK$ 51M by Phillips

Swatch is a great Swiss success story that enabled the reconquest of the market of cheap watches against an overwhelming dominance of the Japanese industry. This brand was launched in 1983 after three years of development.

The idea of ​​the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.

The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch  on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.

On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.

2
​Dunkel Collection
2015 SOLD for HK$ 47M by Sotheby's

On April 7, 2015, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This super lot consists of 5,800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008.

1989 Calibre 89 by Patek Philippe
​Intro

The best wristwatches are highly sophisticated masterpieces of miniaturization. Pocket watches, not limited by the size of the wrist, can do even better in terms of cumulated complications.

In 1989 
Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.

​The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.

​It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.

​1
yellow gold
​2009 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Antiquorum

The working prototype of the Calibre 89 was completed in July 1988 and the yellow gold specimen was released only nine month afterward. It was immediately offered in Geneva in a themed auction devoted to 'The Art of Patek Philippe' : that brand new watch fetched the equivalent of US$ 3.2M at Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 which was at that time a world auction record for a watch.

This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.

Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.

​2
white gold
2004 SOLD for CHF 6.6M by Antiquorum (worth US $ 5M at that time)

On April 24, 2004, Antiquorum sold the white gold watch for CHF 6.6M then worth US$ 5M. That sale celebrated the 30th anniversary of the auction house, formerly Habsburg Feldman.

Grande et Petite Sonnerie by Philippe DUFOUR

1
​1992 yellow gold
2023 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Christie's

Philippe Dufour is beside George Daniels one of the most skilled independent watchmakers. While working for a major brand, he executed from 1982 to 1988 the very first five Grande Sonnerie movements integrated in a pocket watch.

A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the quarters.

Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.

A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.

The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same set of complications into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. Two and a half years were necessary for its completion.

​On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same Phillips sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14. It was sold for CHF 5.1M by Christie's on November 6, 2023, lot 2096.

2
1995 pink gold
2021 SOLD for $ 7.6M by A Collected Man

Only four examples of the Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatch had been made with an enamel dial.

The No. 1 is the yellow gold, narrated above.  The No. 2, manufactured in 1995, is the white gold, sold for CHF 460K by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 328. The No. 3, the pink gold, also completed in 1995, was delivered new to the Sultan of Brunei. It was sold for $ 7.6M on August 16, 2021 by A Collected Man. The ultimate example in that first series is in platinum.

Four replicas were made with an openwork dial revealing the movement, all different in technical details from one another. In that second series, three units are in white gold and one in pink gold.

​Assembled in 2016, the No. 7 is in white gold with the unique feature of a hinged case. It was sold from its original owner by Phillips on December 7, 2024 for $ 3.7M, lot 12. It is accompanied with its certificate and  presentation box. The other three are unknown on the market and currently undated.

After incorporating the first series of Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.

Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
​
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.

A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.

No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.

1993 FP Journe 15/93
2024 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips 

In 1983 François-Paul Journe completed his first pocket watch, incorporating in the following of Breguet a tourbillon with a detent escapement. He then designs a pocket watch with remontoir. Established in Paris in 1985 he creates a high complication pocket watch inspired by Breguet's Marie-Antoinette. This chronometer incorporates a remontoir, a perpetual calendar and a detent escapement.

In 1991 Journe's first wristwatch includes a tourbillon and a remontoir d'égalité. Invented by John Harrison for his marine chronometer, that remontoir had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This 
component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy. This watch is kept in the collection of the inventor.

The second tourbillon wristwatch à remontoir d'égalité is built by Journe in 1993, entirely by hand, in platinum with a 18k gold calibre. Its aesthetics is inspired from Berthoud. It is inscribed FP JOURNE on the dial with a reference 15/93 identifying it as the 15th piece ever made by that watchmaker. 16/93 is a replica from the same year.


The first owner of the 15/93 and his family kept it with its original invoice and technical drawings and with period documents. The watch was serviced by Journe himself in 2024. It was sold for CHF 7.3M from an estimate in excess of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 14.

Journe created Montres Journe SA in Geneva in 1999.
1993

1994 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Saphir Arc en Ciel
2024 SOLD for CHF 5.5M by Phillips

The core business of Rolex was the sport watch. Nevertheless some examples have been gem set. Bao Dai's jeweled 6062 was sold for CHF 5.1M by Phillips in 2017.

A 18K white gold Cosmograph Daytona was fitted ca 1994 with sapphires all around on the bezel in gradual hues evoking a rainbow from deep red to deep purple, certainly on specific request from a customer. The diamond pavé dial displays the same rainbow hues as hour markers.

The reference of this one off watch is 16599SAAEC where the letters are for SApphire Arc En Ciel. It was sold for CHF 5.5M from a lower estimate of CHF 3M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 27. 

The idea resurfaced 18 years later. The first commercial model of a Rolex Daytona Rainbow is the 116595RBOW introduced in 2012.
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