Modern Watches (page in reconstruction)
See also : Patek Philippe Perpetual calendar Rolex Watches II English time pieces
Chronology : 1987 1999 2000
Chronology : 1987 1999 2000
1975 Leap Year Indication Prototype by Patek Philippe
2021 SOLD for HK$ 29M by Christie's
Released in 1962, the reference 3448 by Patek Philippe was a technical feat in its time. It was the first commercially available self-winding wristwatch to display altogether the perpetual calendar and the moon phases. In terms of complications, the brand desired to offer the perfection. The leap year indication was still missing.
In 1975 a prototype was prepared by Max Berney, a master watchmaker at Patek Philippe. He took a 1970 3448 and replaced the moon phases by the leap year. The dial was modified accordingly by Stern Frères. The new indicator is displayed as a sub-dial to be read with a hand inside the date ring.
This unique watch, referenced 3448J, was presented in the same year by Henri and Philippe Stern, then the owners of the company, to Alan Banbery, one of the best connoisseurs of the brand whose career culminated in the opening of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva in 2001. Banbery kept it for his personal use for 24 years. It was sold for CHF 1.84M by Sotheby's on November 16, 2008, lot 214, and for HK $ 29M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2513.
The leap year indication was necessary to keep quiet the perfectionists but did not deserve such a large sub-dial. Patek Philippe was not willing to remove the moon phases from their high end models. On another prototype which added the leap year to the 3448 in 1981, the indicator is limited to a code of four bars in an eccentric tiny aperture. This watch was sold for CHF 1.62M by Christie's on May 13, 2013, lot 131.
This new prototype was satisfactory and the reference 3450 was released accordingly in the same year. The perpetual calendar was now complete and the 3448 was obsoleted in 1982.
In 1975 a prototype was prepared by Max Berney, a master watchmaker at Patek Philippe. He took a 1970 3448 and replaced the moon phases by the leap year. The dial was modified accordingly by Stern Frères. The new indicator is displayed as a sub-dial to be read with a hand inside the date ring.
This unique watch, referenced 3448J, was presented in the same year by Henri and Philippe Stern, then the owners of the company, to Alan Banbery, one of the best connoisseurs of the brand whose career culminated in the opening of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva in 2001. Banbery kept it for his personal use for 24 years. It was sold for CHF 1.84M by Sotheby's on November 16, 2008, lot 214, and for HK $ 29M by Christie's on May 22, 2021, lot 2513.
The leap year indication was necessary to keep quiet the perfectionists but did not deserve such a large sub-dial. Patek Philippe was not willing to remove the moon phases from their high end models. On another prototype which added the leap year to the 3448 in 1981, the indicator is limited to a code of four bars in an eccentric tiny aperture. This watch was sold for CHF 1.62M by Christie's on May 13, 2013, lot 131.
This new prototype was satisfactory and the reference 3450 was released accordingly in the same year. The perpetual calendar was now complete and the 3448 was obsoleted in 1982.
1982 The Equation of the Astronauts
2019 SOLD for £ 3.6M including premium
Throughout his career George Daniels has imitated and improved the most daring complications of pocket watches, often taking Breguet as an example. For the sidereal hour, his model was George Margetts, a contemporary of Breguet who worked in London. Daniels however did not emulate another remarkable specialty of Margetts, the tidal dial.
The equation of time is the difference between the apparent time, which can also be read on a sundial, and the sidereal time which takes its reference in the position of the fixed stars. This difference is an annual cycle due to the obliquity of the Earth and the ellipticity of its orbit.
The first pocket watch in which Daniels included the equation of time is his ninth opus, Elsom II, in 1975.
George Daniels was known for his wit. In 1979 he states that the accuracy of measurement obtained by Margetts, 1.8 seconds per year, is not sufficient for the control of time by an astronaut on his way to Mars. An astronomer from Cambridge University calculates for him a ratio between the two escapement wheels that will reduce the variance to 0.4 seconds per year.
The first pocket watch incorporating these new data is George Daniels' fifteenth opus, the Space Traveller, which also offers the annual calendar and the phases of the Moon. In 1982, shortly after finishing his Space Traveller, Daniels sold it to a collector, probably to meet a prior commitment.
Frustrated that he had parted away from his Space Traveller I, Daniels realized in 1983 the Space Traveller II, on which he added a chronograph and a thermometer. He did not let go this specimen that allowed him to behave like an astronaut in the salons. His fourth and last pocket watch to include the equation of time is the Grand Complication, in 1987.
The Space Traveller I is estimated £ 700K for sale by Sotheby's in London on July 2, lot 143. Space Traveller II was sold for £ 3.2M including premium by Sotheby's on September 19, 2017. Grand Complication was sold for CHF 2.4M including premium by Phillips on May 11, 2019.
The equation of time is the difference between the apparent time, which can also be read on a sundial, and the sidereal time which takes its reference in the position of the fixed stars. This difference is an annual cycle due to the obliquity of the Earth and the ellipticity of its orbit.
The first pocket watch in which Daniels included the equation of time is his ninth opus, Elsom II, in 1975.
George Daniels was known for his wit. In 1979 he states that the accuracy of measurement obtained by Margetts, 1.8 seconds per year, is not sufficient for the control of time by an astronaut on his way to Mars. An astronomer from Cambridge University calculates for him a ratio between the two escapement wheels that will reduce the variance to 0.4 seconds per year.
The first pocket watch incorporating these new data is George Daniels' fifteenth opus, the Space Traveller, which also offers the annual calendar and the phases of the Moon. In 1982, shortly after finishing his Space Traveller, Daniels sold it to a collector, probably to meet a prior commitment.
Frustrated that he had parted away from his Space Traveller I, Daniels realized in 1983 the Space Traveller II, on which he added a chronograph and a thermometer. He did not let go this specimen that allowed him to behave like an astronaut in the salons. His fourth and last pocket watch to include the equation of time is the Grand Complication, in 1987.
The Space Traveller I is estimated £ 700K for sale by Sotheby's in London on July 2, lot 143. Space Traveller II was sold for £ 3.2M including premium by Sotheby's on September 19, 2017. Grand Complication was sold for CHF 2.4M including premium by Phillips on May 11, 2019.
1982-1983 George Daniels as a Sidereal Traveller
2017 SOLD for £ 3.2M including premium
On November 6, 2012, Sotheby's sold the collection of George Daniels including historical timepieces and watches from his invention. I discussed the latter group as pasted below :
Fascinated by watches, George Daniels chose to devote his professional life to them. A repair craftsman of great skill, he became a specialist of Breguet and then made his own watches with an increasing complexity.
In the era of quartz watches, Daniels managed to demonstrate that mechanical watches could still be fully competitive. His invention of the co-axial escapement which suppresses the need for a lubricant is one of the most important advances in watchmaking since Breguet.
In a career that began in 1970, Daniels has completed 37 watches made entirely in his workshop from elementary components to final assembly. Sotheby's devoted an exhibition to them in London in 2006.
Daniels was a lover of great mechanics. The remarkable Bentley Blower racing car sold for £ 5M including premium by Bonhams on 29 June 2012 came from his deceased estate.
I am listing below four watches from his personal work. These 2012 results include the premium.
Made circa 1982, the Space Travellers' watch including a double-wheel escapement was sold for £ 1.33M.
Made around 1987 the Grand Complication watch is a very good example of Daniels' co-axial escapement. It was sold for £ 915K.
As its name suggests, the First wristwatch made circa 1991 is a rare example of a wristwatch incorporating the co-axial escapement. It was sold for £ 385K. A more recent watch made in 1994 was sold for £ 660K over an estimate of £ 300K.
The Space Travellers' watch comes back to Sotheby's in London on September 19, lot 121 estimated £ 1.2M. It is a great opportunity to revisit its remarkable complication. Made in 1982 the only other example is simpler, without a chronograph function : the 2012 catalogue reminded that it was sold for CHF 220K by Sotheby's on November 17, 1988.
Based on a different denting of the two wheels Daniels had been able to realize a watch compensating at the will of the user the difference of 3.555 minutes per day between solar and sidereal times. Well aware that it was a sensational horological feat Dr Daniels exhibited it sometimes at events as a dress watch, stating that it was the suitable instrument to control the time in a long telephone conversation during a trip to Mars.
Please watch the video shared by Sotheby's before the 2012 sale.
Fascinated by watches, George Daniels chose to devote his professional life to them. A repair craftsman of great skill, he became a specialist of Breguet and then made his own watches with an increasing complexity.
In the era of quartz watches, Daniels managed to demonstrate that mechanical watches could still be fully competitive. His invention of the co-axial escapement which suppresses the need for a lubricant is one of the most important advances in watchmaking since Breguet.
In a career that began in 1970, Daniels has completed 37 watches made entirely in his workshop from elementary components to final assembly. Sotheby's devoted an exhibition to them in London in 2006.
Daniels was a lover of great mechanics. The remarkable Bentley Blower racing car sold for £ 5M including premium by Bonhams on 29 June 2012 came from his deceased estate.
I am listing below four watches from his personal work. These 2012 results include the premium.
Made circa 1982, the Space Travellers' watch including a double-wheel escapement was sold for £ 1.33M.
Made around 1987 the Grand Complication watch is a very good example of Daniels' co-axial escapement. It was sold for £ 915K.
As its name suggests, the First wristwatch made circa 1991 is a rare example of a wristwatch incorporating the co-axial escapement. It was sold for £ 385K. A more recent watch made in 1994 was sold for £ 660K over an estimate of £ 300K.
The Space Travellers' watch comes back to Sotheby's in London on September 19, lot 121 estimated £ 1.2M. It is a great opportunity to revisit its remarkable complication. Made in 1982 the only other example is simpler, without a chronograph function : the 2012 catalogue reminded that it was sold for CHF 220K by Sotheby's on November 17, 1988.
Based on a different denting of the two wheels Daniels had been able to realize a watch compensating at the will of the user the difference of 3.555 minutes per day between solar and sidereal times. Well aware that it was a sensational horological feat Dr Daniels exhibited it sometimes at events as a dress watch, stating that it was the suitable instrument to control the time in a long telephone conversation during a trip to Mars.
Please watch the video shared by Sotheby's before the 2012 sale.
(1981)-1983 Another Daytona for Paul Newman
2020 SOLD for $ 5.5M including premium
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips on October 26, 2017 for $ 17.8M including premium from an estimate of $ 1M to 2M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch is estimated in excess of $ 1M for sale by Phillips in New York on December 12, lot 38.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips on October 26, 2017 for $ 17.8M including premium from an estimate of $ 1M to 2M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch is estimated in excess of $ 1M for sale by Phillips in New York on December 12, lot 38.
from 1983 A Collection of 4370 Swatch watches
2011 SOLD for HK$ 51M including premium by Phillips
from 1983 The Swatch Brand
2015 SOLD for HK$ 47M including premium
Swatch is a great Swiss success story that enabled the reconquest of the market of cheap watches against an overwhelming dominance of the Japanese industry. This brand was launched in 1983 after three years of development.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M including premium. Composed of a total of 4370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
On April 7 in Hong Kong, Sotheby's sells the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This superlot consists of 5800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008. Here is the link to thepress release.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M including premium. Composed of a total of 4370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
On April 7 in Hong Kong, Sotheby's sells the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This superlot consists of 5800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008. Here is the link to thepress release.
1987 2499-100P by Patek Philippe
2012 SOLD 3.45 MCHF including premium
One figure is enough to state that the model 2499 of Patek Philippe is the greatest accomplishment of the watch industry: it was produced continuously for 36 years, from 1951 to 1986.
This highly complex wristwatch included a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and the moon phases. Designed for high-end, it was made in only 349 copies, which is an average of ten per year.
Almost all are in yellow gold. Apparently focused on the early period, some very rare 2499 in pink gold are esteemed at auction. Here are two prices: CHF 3.2 million including premium by Antiquorum in October 2002, CHF 2.55 million including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2012.
In 1987, after the completion of the regular production, components were still available to assemble the last two watches in the last subvariant, 2499/100. Philippe Stern, the future president of the brand, decided that they will be the only 2499 in white metal. There will never be a 2499 in white gold: the boss preferred platinum.
Both watches were not intended to be marketed. The latest is actually in the Patek Philippe museum. But 1989 is a year of intense activity to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the brand, with two major events: the release of the pocket watch reference Calibre 89 with 33 complications, and an auction fully devoted to the brand, on April 9, 1989 by Habsburg Feldman.
Patek Philippe changed their mind on the penultimate 2499, presenting it at that auction. Sold CHF 420K, it is certainly for ever the only platinum 2499 available on the market.
This 2499/100P is one of the most desirable watches for a collector. It is estimated CHF 2.5 million at Christie's, for sale in Geneva on November 12. Here is the link to the catalog.
I invite you to play the video shared on the web by Hodinkee.
POST SALE COMMENT
This luxurious and highly rare watch was sold CHF 3.45 million including premium, in its range of estimates.
This highly complex wristwatch included a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and the moon phases. Designed for high-end, it was made in only 349 copies, which is an average of ten per year.
Almost all are in yellow gold. Apparently focused on the early period, some very rare 2499 in pink gold are esteemed at auction. Here are two prices: CHF 3.2 million including premium by Antiquorum in October 2002, CHF 2.55 million including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2012.
In 1987, after the completion of the regular production, components were still available to assemble the last two watches in the last subvariant, 2499/100. Philippe Stern, the future president of the brand, decided that they will be the only 2499 in white metal. There will never be a 2499 in white gold: the boss preferred platinum.
Both watches were not intended to be marketed. The latest is actually in the Patek Philippe museum. But 1989 is a year of intense activity to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the brand, with two major events: the release of the pocket watch reference Calibre 89 with 33 complications, and an auction fully devoted to the brand, on April 9, 1989 by Habsburg Feldman.
Patek Philippe changed their mind on the penultimate 2499, presenting it at that auction. Sold CHF 420K, it is certainly for ever the only platinum 2499 available on the market.
This 2499/100P is one of the most desirable watches for a collector. It is estimated CHF 2.5 million at Christie's, for sale in Geneva on November 12. Here is the link to the catalog.
I invite you to play the video shared on the web by Hodinkee.
POST SALE COMMENT
This luxurious and highly rare watch was sold CHF 3.45 million including premium, in its range of estimates.
1987 The Complications of George Daniels
2019 SOLD for CHF 2.4M including premium
The mastery of watchmaking by George Daniels equaled that of Breguet, whom he admired. In 1980, 157 years after the master's death, he is the first inventor to patent a basic innovation : his coaxial escapement reduces the friction to the point that mechanical watches no longer need a lubricant.
His watches were entirely hand made by himself. His understanding of mechanics was such that he made very few preliminary drawings for developing a new complication. In addition to the clocks and to a commercial series of 58 watches in 1999, he built during his career 23 pocket watches and 4 wristwatches.
His effectiveness was outstanding. The watches equipped with his coaxial escapement are reaching an accuracy below 1 second per month, better than any quartz watch in his time.
Built in 1987, the Grand Complication appears as the ultimate achievement of George Daniels' pocket watches, before he entered a miniaturization phase for creating wristwatches.
Daniels worked with his intuition under no other influence than Breguet. The Grand Complication includes mechanisms entirely invented by him for the annual calendar and for the repeating of minutes. Built on a one-minute coaxial escapement tourbillon, it also offers the moon phases, the power reserve indicator, the equation of time and even a bimetallic thermometer, all of that in a 62 mm diameter case. The dial is highly readable.
Daniels died in 2011. In the auction of his collection by Sotheby's on November 6, 2012, the highest price rewarded the Space Travellers watch, sold for £ 1.33M including premium over a lower estimate of £ 400K. In the same auction room on September 19, 2017, it reached £ 3.2M including premium.
In the 2012 sale the Grand Complication was estimated £ 500K, thus being announced as the most important of Daniels' prototype watches. It had been sold for £ 915K including premium, lot 10. It is now on sale by Phillips in Geneva on May 11, lot 34.
The Grand Complication is shown in operation in a short video inserted in an article prepared by the auction house, illustrated with many photos. The image below is shared by Wikimedia with attribution to Andrewrabbott [CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]
His watches were entirely hand made by himself. His understanding of mechanics was such that he made very few preliminary drawings for developing a new complication. In addition to the clocks and to a commercial series of 58 watches in 1999, he built during his career 23 pocket watches and 4 wristwatches.
His effectiveness was outstanding. The watches equipped with his coaxial escapement are reaching an accuracy below 1 second per month, better than any quartz watch in his time.
Built in 1987, the Grand Complication appears as the ultimate achievement of George Daniels' pocket watches, before he entered a miniaturization phase for creating wristwatches.
Daniels worked with his intuition under no other influence than Breguet. The Grand Complication includes mechanisms entirely invented by him for the annual calendar and for the repeating of minutes. Built on a one-minute coaxial escapement tourbillon, it also offers the moon phases, the power reserve indicator, the equation of time and even a bimetallic thermometer, all of that in a 62 mm diameter case. The dial is highly readable.
Daniels died in 2011. In the auction of his collection by Sotheby's on November 6, 2012, the highest price rewarded the Space Travellers watch, sold for £ 1.33M including premium over a lower estimate of £ 400K. In the same auction room on September 19, 2017, it reached £ 3.2M including premium.
In the 2012 sale the Grand Complication was estimated £ 500K, thus being announced as the most important of Daniels' prototype watches. It had been sold for £ 915K including premium, lot 10. It is now on sale by Phillips in Geneva on May 11, lot 34.
The Grand Complication is shown in operation in a short video inserted in an article prepared by the auction house, illustrated with many photos. The image below is shared by Wikimedia with attribution to Andrewrabbott [CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)]
1989 Calibre 89
Intro
The best wristwatches are highly sophisticated masterpieces of miniaturization. Pocket watches, not limited by the size of the wrist, can do even better in terms of cumulated complications.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
1
Yellow Gold
2009 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Antiquorum
The working prototype of the Calibre 89 was completed in July 1988 and the yellow gold specimen was released only nine month afterward. It was immediately offered in Geneva in a themed auction devoted to 'The Art of Patek Philippe' : that brand new watch fetched the equivalent of US$ 3.2M at Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 which was at that time a world auction record for a watch.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
2
White Gold
2004 SOLD for CHF 6.6M including premium by Antiquorum (worth US $ 5M at that time)
On April 24, 2004, Antiquorum sold the white gold watch for CHF 6.6M then worth US$ 5M. That sale celebrated the 30th anniversary of the auction house, formerly Habsburg Feldman.
1992 Philippe Dufour Grande et Petite Sonnerie
2021 SOLD for CHF 4.75M by Phillips
1996 Philippe Dufour Duality
2021 SOLD for CHF 3.66M by Phillips
Link to lot 190.
Platinum Daytona
1
1999
2020 SOLD for HK$ 25.4M by Sotheby's
In 1988 Rolex modernizes the Daytona Oyster Perpetual with the 16520 series with automatic winding. They use the 4030 caliber which is directly derived from the Zenith 400 El Primero created in 1969. In 2000 the 4030 is replaced by the 4130 which is the first automatic caliber entirely designed by Rolex.
The success is immediate. In 1991 Rolex, tempted to return to the luxury watch market, creates the 16518 in yellow gold, soon followed by the 16519 in white gold. The 16518 also introduces the Racing dial with Arabic numerals.
At the end of the decade, Rolex assembles a few platinum specimens under the reference 16516, with unique dials in different colors, to test the effect. The population is estimated at 4 or 5. Sotheby's knows three of them.
One of them, dated 1998, has a turquoise blue lacquer dial. It was sold for HK $ 24.4M on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
Another one, with a case number adjacent to the previous example, was assembled in 1999 with a lapis lazuli dial. It was sold on July 11, 2020 for HK $ 25.4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 4M, lot 2236.
The third example, assembled in 1999 with a mother-of-pearl dial, was sold for HK $ 6.8M including premium on October 2, 2018, lot 2265. Then recently discovered, this watch had been reported in the catalog as the only known platinum Daytona.
The success is immediate. In 1991 Rolex, tempted to return to the luxury watch market, creates the 16518 in yellow gold, soon followed by the 16519 in white gold. The 16518 also introduces the Racing dial with Arabic numerals.
At the end of the decade, Rolex assembles a few platinum specimens under the reference 16516, with unique dials in different colors, to test the effect. The population is estimated at 4 or 5. Sotheby's knows three of them.
One of them, dated 1998, has a turquoise blue lacquer dial. It was sold for HK $ 24.4M on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
Another one, with a case number adjacent to the previous example, was assembled in 1999 with a lapis lazuli dial. It was sold on July 11, 2020 for HK $ 25.4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 4M, lot 2236.
The third example, assembled in 1999 with a mother-of-pearl dial, was sold for HK $ 6.8M including premium on October 2, 2018, lot 2265. Then recently discovered, this watch had been reported in the catalog as the only known platinum Daytona.
2
1998
2021 SOLD for HK$ 24.4M by Sotheby's
The unique platinum Daytona with a turquoise blue lacquer dial, dated 1998, was sold for HK $ 24.4M by Sotheby's on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
1999 Journe
2021 SOLD for CHF 3.54M by Phillips
2000 Journe
2021 SOLD for CHF 3.9M by Phillips
Link to lot 140.
