Modern Watches from 1980 to 1999
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
1
(1981)-1983 6263 ex Paul Newman
2020 SOLD for $ 5.5M by Phillips
Rolex launches in 1963 the Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 for the use of drivers of endurance racing cars. The brand believes that other customers will be proud to own such a watch with high-end performance. Sales are disappointing. To revive the model in late 1966 Rolex offers more stylish dials with a choice in a range of pleasing colors and with better designed numerals. This model is referred as 'exotic'.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. After the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by a group of collectors and dealers without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage was sold for $ 17.8M by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, lot 8. Its consignor was James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. It is the first of three watches discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips in 2017 for $ 17.8M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch was sold for $ 5.5M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Phillips on December 12, 2020, lot 38.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. After the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by a group of collectors and dealers without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage was sold for $ 17.8M by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, lot 8. Its consignor was James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. It is the first of three watches discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips in 2017 for $ 17.8M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch was sold for $ 5.5M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Phillips on December 12, 2020, lot 38.
2
1985 6270
2025 SOLD for HK$ 41M by Sotheby's
On demand from wealthy clients, Rolex went to propose bejeweled sport wristwatches for men. The gold Cosmograph Daytona reference 6269, made in less than thirty pieces, is characterized by its brilliant-cut diamond bezel, diamond pavé set dial and golden subsidiary counters. It was discontinued in 1987.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared for Sultan Qaboos of Oman through Asprey of London. The first ever Daytona model set with stones, it is arguably the most expensive Daytona ever made. The delivered quantity is not known. 8 of them are known to exist aso f 2023. They feature solid 18k yellow gold, a pavé diamond-set dial, numerals in sapphires, the bezel set with baguette diamonds, and the sub-registers are purple.
A 6270 was sold for HK $ 41M from a lower estimate of HK $ 16M for sale by Sotheby's on October 21, 2025, lot 2287. It is dated ca 1985 in the catalogue. Announced as in pristine condition, it is nicknamed The King. The inside case back is stamped 6263.
Another 6270 was sold for CHF 3.7M by Phillips on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared for Sultan Qaboos of Oman through Asprey of London. The first ever Daytona model set with stones, it is arguably the most expensive Daytona ever made. The delivered quantity is not known. 8 of them are known to exist aso f 2023. They feature solid 18k yellow gold, a pavé diamond-set dial, numerals in sapphires, the bezel set with baguette diamonds, and the sub-registers are purple.
A 6270 was sold for HK $ 41M from a lower estimate of HK $ 16M for sale by Sotheby's on October 21, 2025, lot 2287. It is dated ca 1985 in the catalogue. Announced as in pristine condition, it is nicknamed The King. The inside case back is stamped 6263.
Another 6270 was sold for CHF 3.7M by Phillips on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
from 1983 Swatch
1
Blum Collection
2011 SOLD for HK$ 51M by Phillips
Swatch is a great Swiss success story that enabled the reconquest of the market of cheap watches against an overwhelming dominance of the Japanese industry. This brand was launched in 1983 after three years of development.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
2
Dunkel Collection
2015 SOLD for HK$ 47M by Sotheby's
On April 7, 2015, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This super lot consists of 5,800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008.
1989 Calibre 89 by Patek Philippe
Intro
The best wristwatches are highly sophisticated masterpieces of miniaturization. Pocket watches, not limited by the size of the wrist, can do even better in terms of cumulated complications.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
1
yellow gold
2009 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Antiquorum
The working prototype of the Calibre 89 was completed in July 1988 and the yellow gold specimen was released only nine month afterward. It was immediately offered in Geneva in a themed auction devoted to 'The Art of Patek Philippe' : that brand new watch fetched the equivalent of US$ 3.2M at Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 which was at that time a world auction record for a watch.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
2
white gold
2004 SOLD for CHF 6.6M by Antiquorum (worth US $ 5M at that time)
On April 24, 2004, Antiquorum sold the white gold watch for CHF 6.6M then worth US$ 5M. That sale celebrated the 30th anniversary of the auction house, formerly Habsburg Feldman.
Grande et Petite Sonnerie by Philippe DUFOUR
1
1992 yellow gold
2023 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Christie's
Philippe Dufour is beside George Daniels one of the most skilled independent watchmakers. While working for a major brand, he executed from 1982 to 1988 the very first five Grande Sonnerie movements integrated in a pocket watch.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same set of complications into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. Two and a half years were necessary for its completion.
On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same Phillips sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14. It was sold for CHF 5.1M by Christie's on November 6, 2023, lot 2096.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same set of complications into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. Two and a half years were necessary for its completion.
On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same Phillips sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14. It was sold for CHF 5.1M by Christie's on November 6, 2023, lot 2096.
2
1995 pink gold
2021 SOLD for $ 7.6M by A Collected Man
Only four examples of the Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatch had been made with an enamel dial.
The No. 1 is the yellow gold, narrated above. The No. 2, manufactured in 1995, is the white gold, sold for CHF 460K by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 328. The No. 3, the pink gold, also completed in 1995, was delivered new to the Sultan of Brunei. It was sold for $ 7.6M on August 16, 2021 by A Collected Man. The ultimate example in that first series is in platinum.
Four replicas were made with an openwork dial revealing the movement, all different in technical details from one another. In that second series, three units are in white gold and one in pink gold.
Assembled in 2016, the No. 7 is in white gold with the unique feature of a hinged case. It was sold from its original owner by Phillips on December 7, 2024 for $ 3.7M, lot 12. It is accompanied with its certificate and presentation box. The other three are unknown on the market and currently undated.
After incorporating the first series of Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
The No. 1 is the yellow gold, narrated above. The No. 2, manufactured in 1995, is the white gold, sold for CHF 460K by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 328. The No. 3, the pink gold, also completed in 1995, was delivered new to the Sultan of Brunei. It was sold for $ 7.6M on August 16, 2021 by A Collected Man. The ultimate example in that first series is in platinum.
Four replicas were made with an openwork dial revealing the movement, all different in technical details from one another. In that second series, three units are in white gold and one in pink gold.
Assembled in 2016, the No. 7 is in white gold with the unique feature of a hinged case. It was sold from its original owner by Phillips on December 7, 2024 for $ 3.7M, lot 12. It is accompanied with its certificate and presentation box. The other three are unknown on the market and currently undated.
After incorporating the first series of Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
1993 FP Journe 15/93
2024 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips
In 1983 François-Paul Journe completed his first pocket watch, incorporating in the following of Breguet a tourbillon with a detent escapement. He then designs a pocket watch with remontoir. Established in Paris in 1985 he creates a high complication pocket watch inspired by Breguet's Marie-Antoinette. This chronometer incorporates a remontoir, a perpetual calendar and a detent escapement.
In 1991 Journe's first wristwatch includes a tourbillon and a remontoir d'égalité. Invented by John Harrison for his marine chronometer, that remontoir had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy. This watch is kept in the collection of the inventor.
The second tourbillon wristwatch à remontoir d'égalité is built by Journe in 1993, entirely by hand, in platinum with a 18k gold calibre. Its aesthetics is inspired from Berthoud. It is inscribed FP JOURNE on the dial with a reference 15/93 identifying it as the 15th piece ever made by that watchmaker. 16/93 is a replica from the same year.
The first owner of the 15/93 and his family kept it with its original invoice and technical drawings and with period documents. The watch was serviced by Journe himself in 2024. It was sold for CHF 7.3M from an estimate in excess of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 14.
In 1991 Journe's first wristwatch includes a tourbillon and a remontoir d'égalité. Invented by John Harrison for his marine chronometer, that remontoir had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy. This watch is kept in the collection of the inventor.
The second tourbillon wristwatch à remontoir d'égalité is built by Journe in 1993, entirely by hand, in platinum with a 18k gold calibre. Its aesthetics is inspired from Berthoud. It is inscribed FP JOURNE on the dial with a reference 15/93 identifying it as the 15th piece ever made by that watchmaker. 16/93 is a replica from the same year.
The first owner of the 15/93 and his family kept it with its original invoice and technical drawings and with period documents. The watch was serviced by Journe himself in 2024. It was sold for CHF 7.3M from an estimate in excess of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 14.
Established in central Geneva, François-Paul Journe creates in 1999 his watchmaking Montres Journe company with the F.P. Journe brand. His proud motto "invenit et fecit" is inscribed on the dials of his watches for stating that he is an independent designer and maker.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
The first ever wristwatch combining the grande and petite sonnerie was made in 1992 by Dufour.
François-Paul Journe released in 2006 his Sonnerie Souveraine model with both strikes, for which he received ten patents. Four units were built each year until 2018. The case was made in stainless steel for a better sound. The mechanism is using 582 components.
The development had lasted six years, with the amusing target that it could be used without failing by an eight year old child. The challenge was to create a low tension movement to activate the grand strike of the quarter hours in a wristwatch with a 24 hour autonomy without a loss in the accuracy nor in the chime. The petite sonnerie is the minute repeater.
A bespoke example dated Janvier 2009 on the case was sold for CHF 3.05M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2111. The petrol blue color of its dial is a possibly unique technical feat requiring multiple applications of lacquer layers by hand plus the mirror polishing of each layer.
This example was built by F.P. Journe SA for a close friend whose name is engraved on the case back beside Julius Caesar's motto Ab Imo Pectore and the ambitious technical aphorism Ars Longa, Vita Brevis. The FIA 7th Constructors’ Formula One World Champions logo also designates that first owner. This man, whose name is not disclosed in the catalogue for legal reasons, retired from operations a few months later to become the President of the FIA.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
The first ever wristwatch combining the grande and petite sonnerie was made in 1992 by Dufour.
François-Paul Journe released in 2006 his Sonnerie Souveraine model with both strikes, for which he received ten patents. Four units were built each year until 2018. The case was made in stainless steel for a better sound. The mechanism is using 582 components.
The development had lasted six years, with the amusing target that it could be used without failing by an eight year old child. The challenge was to create a low tension movement to activate the grand strike of the quarter hours in a wristwatch with a 24 hour autonomy without a loss in the accuracy nor in the chime. The petite sonnerie is the minute repeater.
A bespoke example dated Janvier 2009 on the case was sold for CHF 3.05M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2111. The petrol blue color of its dial is a possibly unique technical feat requiring multiple applications of lacquer layers by hand plus the mirror polishing of each layer.
This example was built by F.P. Journe SA for a close friend whose name is engraved on the case back beside Julius Caesar's motto Ab Imo Pectore and the ambitious technical aphorism Ars Longa, Vita Brevis. The FIA 7th Constructors’ Formula One World Champions logo also designates that first owner. This man, whose name is not disclosed in the catalogue for legal reasons, retired from operations a few months later to become the President of the FIA.
1994 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Saphir Arc en Ciel
2024 SOLD for CHF 5.5M by Phillips
The core business of Rolex was the sport watch. Nevertheless some examples have been gem set. Bao Dai's jeweled 6062 was sold for CHF 5.1M by Phillips in 2017.
A 18K white gold Cosmograph Daytona was fitted ca 1994 with sapphires all around on the bezel in gradual hues evoking a rainbow from deep red to deep purple, certainly on specific request from a customer. The diamond pavé dial displays the same rainbow hues as hour markers.
The reference of this one off watch is 16599SAAEC where the letters are for SApphire Arc En Ciel. It was sold for CHF 5.5M from a lower estimate of CHF 3M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 27.
The idea resurfaced 18 years later. The first commercial model of a Rolex Daytona Rainbow is the 116595RBOW introduced in 2012.
A 18K white gold Cosmograph Daytona was fitted ca 1994 with sapphires all around on the bezel in gradual hues evoking a rainbow from deep red to deep purple, certainly on specific request from a customer. The diamond pavé dial displays the same rainbow hues as hour markers.
The reference of this one off watch is 16599SAAEC where the letters are for SApphire Arc En Ciel. It was sold for CHF 5.5M from a lower estimate of CHF 3M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 27.
The idea resurfaced 18 years later. The first commercial model of a Rolex Daytona Rainbow is the 116595RBOW introduced in 2012.
