Modern Watches from 1980 to 2000
from 1983 Swatch
1
Blum Collection
2011 SOLD for HK$ 51M by Phillips
Swatch is a great Swiss success story that enabled the reconquest of the market of cheap watches against an overwhelming dominance of the Japanese industry. This brand was launched in 1983 after three years of development.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
2
Dunkel Collection
2015 SOLD for HK$ 47M by Sotheby's
On April 7, 2015, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This super lot consists of 5,800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008.
1985 Rolex 6270
2025 SOLD for HK$ 41M by Sotheby's
On demand from wealthy clients, Rolex went to propose bejeweled sport wristwatches for men. The gold Cosmograph Daytona reference 6269, made in less than thirty pieces, is characterized by its brilliant-cut diamond bezel, diamond pavé set dial and golden subsidiary counters. It was discontinued in 1987.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared for Sultan Qaboos of Oman through Asprey of London. The first ever Daytona model set with stones, it is arguably the most expensive Daytona ever made. The delivered quantity is not known. 8 of them are known to exist aso f 2023. They feature solid 18k yellow gold, a pavé diamond-set dial, numerals in sapphires, the bezel set with baguette diamonds, and the sub-registers are purple.
A 6270 was sold for HK $ 41M from a lower estimate of HK $ 16M for sale by Sotheby's on October 21, 2025, lot 2287. It is dated ca 1985 in the catalogue. Announced as in pristine condition, it is nicknamed The King. The inside case back is stamped 6263.
Another 6270 was sold for CHF 3.7M by Phillips on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared for Sultan Qaboos of Oman through Asprey of London. The first ever Daytona model set with stones, it is arguably the most expensive Daytona ever made. The delivered quantity is not known. 8 of them are known to exist aso f 2023. They feature solid 18k yellow gold, a pavé diamond-set dial, numerals in sapphires, the bezel set with baguette diamonds, and the sub-registers are purple.
A 6270 was sold for HK $ 41M from a lower estimate of HK $ 16M for sale by Sotheby's on October 21, 2025, lot 2287. It is dated ca 1985 in the catalogue. Announced as in pristine condition, it is nicknamed The King. The inside case back is stamped 6263.
Another 6270 was sold for CHF 3.7M by Phillips on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
1989 Calibre 89 by Patek Philippe
Intro
The best wristwatches are highly sophisticated masterpieces of miniaturization. Pocket watches, not limited by the size of the wrist, can do even better in terms of cumulated complications.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
1
yellow gold
2009 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Antiquorum
The working prototype of the Calibre 89 was completed in July 1988 and the yellow gold specimen was released only nine month afterward. It was immediately offered in Geneva in a themed auction devoted to 'The Art of Patek Philippe' : that brand new watch fetched the equivalent of US$ 3.2M at Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 which was at that time a world auction record for a watch.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
2
white gold
2004 SOLD for CHF 6.6M by Antiquorum (worth US $ 5M at that time)
On April 24, 2004, Antiquorum sold the white gold watch for CHF 6.6M then worth US$ 5M. That sale celebrated the 30th anniversary of the auction house, formerly Habsburg Feldman.
Grande et Petite Sonnerie by Philippe DUFOUR
1
1992 yellow gold
2023 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Christie's
Philippe Dufour is beside George Daniels one of the most skilled independent watchmakers. While working for a major brand, he executed from 1982 to 1988 the very first five Grande Sonnerie movements integrated in a pocket watch.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same set of complications into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. Two and a half years were necessary for its completion.
On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same Phillips sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14. It was sold for CHF 5.1M by Christie's on November 6, 2023, lot 2096.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same set of complications into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. Two and a half years were necessary for its completion.
On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same Phillips sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14. It was sold for CHF 5.1M by Christie's on November 6, 2023, lot 2096.
2
1995 pink gold
2021 SOLD for $ 7.6M by A Collected Man
Only four examples of the Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatch had been made with an enamel dial.
The No. 1 is the yellow gold, narrated above. The No. 2, manufactured in 1995, is the white gold, sold for CHF 460K by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 328. The No. 3, the pink gold, also completed in 1995, was delivered new to the Sultan of Brunei. It was sold for $ 7.6M on August 16, 2021 by A Collected Man. The ultimate example in that first series is in platinum.
Four replicas were made with an openwork dial revealing the movement, all different in technical details from one another. In that second series, three units are in white gold and one in pink gold.
Assembled in 2016, the No. 7 is in white gold with the unique feature of a hinged case. It was sold from its original owner by Phillips on December 7, 2024 for $ 3.7M, lot 12. It is accompanied with its certificate and presentation box. The other three are unknown on the market and currently undated.
After incorporating the first series of Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
The No. 1 is the yellow gold, narrated above. The No. 2, manufactured in 1995, is the white gold, sold for CHF 460K by Christie's on May 12, 2008, lot 328. The No. 3, the pink gold, also completed in 1995, was delivered new to the Sultan of Brunei. It was sold for $ 7.6M on August 16, 2021 by A Collected Man. The ultimate example in that first series is in platinum.
Four replicas were made with an openwork dial revealing the movement, all different in technical details from one another. In that second series, three units are in white gold and one in pink gold.
Assembled in 2016, the No. 7 is in white gold with the unique feature of a hinged case. It was sold from its original owner by Phillips on December 7, 2024 for $ 3.7M, lot 12. It is accompanied with its certificate and presentation box. The other three are unknown on the market and currently undated.
After incorporating the first series of Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
F.P. Journe
1993 15/93
2024 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips
In 1983 François-Paul Journe completed his first pocket watch, incorporating in the following of Breguet a tourbillon with a detent escapement. He then designs a pocket watch with remontoir. Established in Paris in 1985 he creates a high complication pocket watch inspired by Breguet's Marie-Antoinette. This chronometer incorporates a remontoir, a perpetual calendar and a detent escapement.
In 1991 Journe's first wristwatch includes a tourbillon and a remontoir d'égalité. Invented by John Harrison for his marine chronometer, that remontoir had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy. This watch is kept in the collection of the inventor.
The second tourbillon wristwatch à remontoir d'égalité is built by Journe in 1993, entirely by hand, in platinum with a 18k gold calibre. Its aesthetics is inspired from Berthoud. It is inscribed FP JOURNE on the dial with a reference 15/93 identifying it as the 15th piece ever made by that watchmaker. 16/93 is a replica from the same year.
The first owner of the 15/93 and his family kept it with its original invoice and technical drawings and with period documents. The watch was serviced by Journe himself in 2024. It was sold for CHF 7.3M from an estimate in excess of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 14.
In 1991 Journe's first wristwatch includes a tourbillon and a remontoir d'égalité. Invented by John Harrison for his marine chronometer, that remontoir had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy. This watch is kept in the collection of the inventor.
The second tourbillon wristwatch à remontoir d'égalité is built by Journe in 1993, entirely by hand, in platinum with a 18k gold calibre. Its aesthetics is inspired from Berthoud. It is inscribed FP JOURNE on the dial with a reference 15/93 identifying it as the 15th piece ever made by that watchmaker. 16/93 is a replica from the same year.
The first owner of the 15/93 and his family kept it with its original invoice and technical drawings and with period documents. The watch was serviced by Journe himself in 2024. It was sold for CHF 7.3M from an estimate in excess of CHF 2M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 14.
Established in central Geneva, François-Paul Journe creates in 1999 his watchmaking Montres Journe company with the F.P. Journe brand. His proud motto "invenit et fecit" is inscribed on the dials of his watches for stating that he is an independent designer and maker.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
The first ever wristwatch combining the grande and petite sonnerie was made in 1992 by Dufour.
François-Paul Journe released in 2006 his Sonnerie Souveraine model with both strikes, for which he received ten patents. Four units were built each year until 2018. The case was made in stainless steel for a better sound. The mechanism is using 582 components.
The development had lasted six years, with the amusing target that it could be used without failing by an eight year old child. The challenge was to create a low tension movement to activate the grand strike of the quarter hours in a wristwatch with a 24 hour autonomy without a loss in the accuracy nor in the chime. The petite sonnerie is the minute repeater.
A bespoke example dated Janvier 2009 on the case was sold for CHF 3.05M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2111. The petrol blue color of its dial is a possibly unique technical feat requiring multiple applications of lacquer layers by hand plus the mirror polishing of each layer.
This example was built by F.P. Journe SA for a close friend whose name is engraved on the case back beside Julius Caesar's motto Ab Imo Pectore and the ambitious technical aphorism Ars Longa, Vita Brevis. The FIA 7th Constructors’ Formula One World Champions logo also designates that first owner. This man, whose name is not disclosed in the catalogue for legal reasons, retired from operations a few months later to become the President of the FIA.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
The first ever wristwatch combining the grande and petite sonnerie was made in 1992 by Dufour.
François-Paul Journe released in 2006 his Sonnerie Souveraine model with both strikes, for which he received ten patents. Four units were built each year until 2018. The case was made in stainless steel for a better sound. The mechanism is using 582 components.
The development had lasted six years, with the amusing target that it could be used without failing by an eight year old child. The challenge was to create a low tension movement to activate the grand strike of the quarter hours in a wristwatch with a 24 hour autonomy without a loss in the accuracy nor in the chime. The petite sonnerie is the minute repeater.
A bespoke example dated Janvier 2009 on the case was sold for CHF 3.05M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2111. The petrol blue color of its dial is a possibly unique technical feat requiring multiple applications of lacquer layers by hand plus the mirror polishing of each layer.
This example was built by F.P. Journe SA for a close friend whose name is engraved on the case back beside Julius Caesar's motto Ab Imo Pectore and the ambitious technical aphorism Ars Longa, Vita Brevis. The FIA 7th Constructors’ Formula One World Champions logo also designates that first owner. This man, whose name is not disclosed in the catalogue for legal reasons, retired from operations a few months later to become the President of the FIA.
2000 Chronomètre à Résonance
2026 SOLD for CHF 4.9M by Phillips
Chronomètre à Résonance "Souscription No. 18" was sold on May 10, 2026 by Phillips for CHF4 875 500 against a lower estimate of CHF 450K, lot 6. Compare with No. 1, sold for CHF 3.9M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 140.
Both watches are ultra-rare early F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance "Souscription" pieces from the original limited run of 20 (circa 2000). These represent some of the most iconic and collectible independent watches ever made, embodying Journe's pioneering use of resonance (two independent escapements that synchronize via acoustic/vibrational coupling for superior chronometric performance).
Shared Core Features (Calibre 1499)
Souscription No. 18 (the one sold by Phillips for CHF 4,875,500) carries case number 018/00R, while No. 1 is 001/00R. Both feature the rare white gold (silvered) dial variant and belong to the small group of only five known two-tone platinum/pink gold Souscription cases.
No. 18 and No. 1 are among the top tier of Souscriptions in desirability — specifically, they are part of the tiny set of only three examples that combine the two-tone case with the white gold dial. No. 1 benefits from the strong provenance of being the absolute first in the series, whereas No. 18 achieved an even higher result at auction, likely due to excellent overall condition, full original kit (box, literature, packaging), and the current strength of the market for these pieces.
The movements and technical execution are essentially identical early brass calibre 1499 examples with no generational differences. Early dials on both can develop an attractive two-tone patina over time on the subdials, which is highly prized by collectors.
Both watches sit at the pinnacle of Souscription Resonance desirability due to their two-tone execution (pink mid-case contrasting with platinum bezel and caseback), a configuration that was experimental and not widely repeated. This recent sale of No. 18 demonstrates continued strong appreciation for these historically significant “holy grail” pieces.
F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance (especially the early calibre 1499 Souscription models) is the modern successor to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s experimental resonance pocket watches. Journe, who restored one of Breguet’s double-pendulum regulators early in his career, directly drew inspiration from Breguet while adapting the concept to a wristwatch.
Shared Core Principles
Both systems rely on acoustic and vibrational coupling through a rigid structure:
Breguet proved through experiments (including in a vacuum) that the coupling works mainly through vibrations in the plate, not air movement. Journe follows the same principle.
Key Differences: Breguet vs. Journe
Breguet’s resonance watches were large experimental pocket watches (typically 50–60 mm or bigger), with only a few known examples. Journe created the first successful series-produced resonance wristwatch in a practical 38–40 mm size — a major technical achievement in miniaturization.
Breguet’s balances needed to be regulated within about 20 seconds per day of each other to couple reliably. Journe’s early Souscription models demand a tighter tolerance of roughly 5 seconds per day because of the smaller scale and the dynamic forces of wrist wear.
Both designs place the balances close together with adjustable spacing, but Journe’s are positioned extremely close (about 0.4 mm apart) using a fine rack system for precise tuning. Power delivery is similar in Breguet’s watches and the early Journe Souscriptions: two independent mainspring barrels and gear trains. Later Journe models evolved to a single barrel with a differential and remontoirs, but the Souscriptions keep the original dual-train purity.
Coupling strength remains deliberately weak and inertial in both (through the plate only). Breguet’s pieces were unique prototypes that demonstrated excellent long-term synchronization. Journe refined the system for consistent, everyday performance on the wrist.
Technical & Philosophical Context
Breguet’s work was pure experimentation, building on earlier ideas from Antide Janvier. He tested variables such as air barriers and vacuum conditions to understand the physics. Journe turned the concept into a refined, wearable watch using modern techniques like free-sprung balances and precise regulation. The Souscription examples (such as No. 18) remain the closest to Breguet’s original dual-barrel philosophy.
In short, Journe achieved on the wrist what Breguet proved in the pocket: superior precision through pure physics, with two fully independent systems that naturally help each other. This is why these early Journe Resonances are so highly regarded — they represent the successful revival of one of horology’s most elegant ideas.
Both watches are ultra-rare early F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance "Souscription" pieces from the original limited run of 20 (circa 2000). These represent some of the most iconic and collectible independent watches ever made, embodying Journe's pioneering use of resonance (two independent escapements that synchronize via acoustic/vibrational coupling for superior chronometric performance).
Shared Core Features (Calibre 1499)
- Movement: Manual-wind calibre 1499 (brass), 36 jewels, with dual balance wheels/escapements exploiting resonance. Both have the early architecture with two mainspring barrels.
- Case: 38mm diameter, two-tone construction (platinum + 18K pink/rose gold). Mid-case and crowns in pink gold; bezel and caseback in platinum (an experimental early configuration).
- Functions: Dual time display (two separate dials for hours/minutes + small seconds), power reserve.
- Souscription Status: Part of the pre-sale subscription series that helped fund the young brand. These are among the earliest Resonances, highly sought after for historical importance.
- Accessories: Leather strap with pink gold F.P. Journe buckle; signed case, dial, movement, and buckle. Both came with original packaging.
Souscription No. 18 (the one sold by Phillips for CHF 4,875,500) carries case number 018/00R, while No. 1 is 001/00R. Both feature the rare white gold (silvered) dial variant and belong to the small group of only five known two-tone platinum/pink gold Souscription cases.
No. 18 and No. 1 are among the top tier of Souscriptions in desirability — specifically, they are part of the tiny set of only three examples that combine the two-tone case with the white gold dial. No. 1 benefits from the strong provenance of being the absolute first in the series, whereas No. 18 achieved an even higher result at auction, likely due to excellent overall condition, full original kit (box, literature, packaging), and the current strength of the market for these pieces.
The movements and technical execution are essentially identical early brass calibre 1499 examples with no generational differences. Early dials on both can develop an attractive two-tone patina over time on the subdials, which is highly prized by collectors.
Both watches sit at the pinnacle of Souscription Resonance desirability due to their two-tone execution (pink mid-case contrasting with platinum bezel and caseback), a configuration that was experimental and not widely repeated. This recent sale of No. 18 demonstrates continued strong appreciation for these historically significant “holy grail” pieces.
F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance (especially the early calibre 1499 Souscription models) is the modern successor to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s experimental resonance pocket watches. Journe, who restored one of Breguet’s double-pendulum regulators early in his career, directly drew inspiration from Breguet while adapting the concept to a wristwatch.
Shared Core Principles
Both systems rely on acoustic and vibrational coupling through a rigid structure:
- They use two completely independent oscillators (each with its own balance wheel, hairspring, gear train, and mainspring).
- There is no mechanical link (no gears, springs, or clutches) between the two balances.
- The balances synchronize by transmitting tiny vibrations through the shared mainplate.
Breguet proved through experiments (including in a vacuum) that the coupling works mainly through vibrations in the plate, not air movement. Journe follows the same principle.
Key Differences: Breguet vs. Journe
Breguet’s resonance watches were large experimental pocket watches (typically 50–60 mm or bigger), with only a few known examples. Journe created the first successful series-produced resonance wristwatch in a practical 38–40 mm size — a major technical achievement in miniaturization.
Breguet’s balances needed to be regulated within about 20 seconds per day of each other to couple reliably. Journe’s early Souscription models demand a tighter tolerance of roughly 5 seconds per day because of the smaller scale and the dynamic forces of wrist wear.
Both designs place the balances close together with adjustable spacing, but Journe’s are positioned extremely close (about 0.4 mm apart) using a fine rack system for precise tuning. Power delivery is similar in Breguet’s watches and the early Journe Souscriptions: two independent mainspring barrels and gear trains. Later Journe models evolved to a single barrel with a differential and remontoirs, but the Souscriptions keep the original dual-train purity.
Coupling strength remains deliberately weak and inertial in both (through the plate only). Breguet’s pieces were unique prototypes that demonstrated excellent long-term synchronization. Journe refined the system for consistent, everyday performance on the wrist.
Technical & Philosophical Context
Breguet’s work was pure experimentation, building on earlier ideas from Antide Janvier. He tested variables such as air barriers and vacuum conditions to understand the physics. Journe turned the concept into a refined, wearable watch using modern techniques like free-sprung balances and precise regulation. The Souscription examples (such as No. 18) remain the closest to Breguet’s original dual-barrel philosophy.
In short, Journe achieved on the wrist what Breguet proved in the pocket: superior precision through pure physics, with two fully independent systems that naturally help each other. This is why these early Journe Resonances are so highly regarded — they represent the successful revival of one of horology’s most elegant ideas.
1994 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Saphir Arc en Ciel
2024 SOLD for CHF 5.5M by Phillips
The core business of Rolex was the sport watch. Nevertheless some examples have been gem set. Bao Dai's jeweled 6062 was sold for CHF 5.1M by Phillips in 2017.
A 18K white gold Cosmograph Daytona was fitted ca 1994 with sapphires all around on the bezel in gradual hues evoking a rainbow from deep red to deep purple, certainly on specific request from a customer. The diamond pavé dial displays the same rainbow hues as hour markers.
The reference of this one off watch is 16599SAAEC where the letters are for SApphire Arc En Ciel. It was sold for CHF 5.5M from a lower estimate of CHF 3M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 27.
The idea resurfaced 18 years later. The first commercial model of a Rolex Daytona Rainbow is the 116595RBOW introduced in 2012.
A 18K white gold Cosmograph Daytona was fitted ca 1994 with sapphires all around on the bezel in gradual hues evoking a rainbow from deep red to deep purple, certainly on specific request from a customer. The diamond pavé dial displays the same rainbow hues as hour markers.
The reference of this one off watch is 16599SAAEC where the letters are for SApphire Arc En Ciel. It was sold for CHF 5.5M from a lower estimate of CHF 3M by Phillips on November 8, 2024, lot 27.
The idea resurfaced 18 years later. The first commercial model of a Rolex Daytona Rainbow is the 116595RBOW introduced in 2012.
