Modern Watches
Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
See also : Rolex Watches II English time pieces
Chronology : 1989
See also : Rolex Watches II English time pieces
Chronology : 1989
George Daniels
Intro
In the era of quartz watches, George Daniels managed to demonstrate that mechanical watches could still be fully competitive.
A repair craftsman of great skill, he became a specialist of Breguet and then made his own watches with an increasing complexity. In 1980, 157 years after the master's death, he is the first inventor to patent a basic innovation : his coaxial escapement reduces the friction to the point that mechanical watches no longer need a lubricant.
His dials, hands, cases, movements and assembly were hand made entirely by him from scratch in his workshop of the Isle of Man in the middle of the Irish sea. His understanding of mechanics was such that he made very few preliminary drawings for developing a new complication. The very design of the dials is in the aesthetic style of Breguet enhanced by guilloché.
His effectiveness was outstanding. The watches equipped with his coaxial escapement are reaching an accuracy below 1 second per month, better than any quartz watch in his time.
In 2006 Sotheby's devoted an exhibition to his work in London.
Daniels was a lover of any great mechanics. The exceptional Bentley Blower racing car sold for £ 5M by Bonhams in 2012 came from his collection.
A repair craftsman of great skill, he became a specialist of Breguet and then made his own watches with an increasing complexity. In 1980, 157 years after the master's death, he is the first inventor to patent a basic innovation : his coaxial escapement reduces the friction to the point that mechanical watches no longer need a lubricant.
His dials, hands, cases, movements and assembly were hand made entirely by him from scratch in his workshop of the Isle of Man in the middle of the Irish sea. His understanding of mechanics was such that he made very few preliminary drawings for developing a new complication. The very design of the dials is in the aesthetic style of Breguet enhanced by guilloché.
His effectiveness was outstanding. The watches equipped with his coaxial escapement are reaching an accuracy below 1 second per month, better than any quartz watch in his time.
In 2006 Sotheby's devoted an exhibition to his work in London.
Daniels was a lover of any great mechanics. The exceptional Bentley Blower racing car sold for £ 5M by Bonhams in 2012 came from his collection.
1
1982 Space Traveller I
2019 SOLD for £ 3.6M by Sotheby's
Throughout his career George Daniels has imitated and improved the most daring complications of pocket watches, often taking Breguet as an example. For the sidereal hour, his model was George Margetts, a contemporary of Breguet who worked in London. Daniels however did not emulate another remarkable specialty of Margetts, the tidal dial.
The equation of time is the difference between the apparent time, which can also be read on a sundial, and the sidereal time which takes its reference in the position of the fixed stars. This difference is an annual cycle due to the obliquity of the Earth and the ellipticity of its orbit.
The first pocket watch in which Daniels included the equation of time is his ninth opus, Elsom II, in 1975.
George Daniels was known for his wit. In 1979 he states that the accuracy of measurement obtained by Margetts, 1.8 seconds per year, is not sufficient for the control of time by an astronaut on his way to Mars. An astronomer from Cambridge University calculates for him a ratio between the two escapement wheels that will reduce the variance to 0.4 seconds per year.
The first pocket watch incorporating these new data is George Daniels' fifteenth opus, the Space Traveller, which also offers the annual calendar and the phases of the Moon. In 1982, shortly after finishing his Space Traveller, Daniels sold it to a collector, probably to meet a prior commitment.
The Space Traveller I was sold for £ 3.6M from a lower estimate of £ 700K by Sotheby's on July 2, 2019, lot 143.
Frustrated that he had parted away from his Space Traveller I, George Daniels realized in 1983 the Space Traveller II, inspired from the I to which he added a chronograph and a thermometer. He did not let go this specimen.
Based on a different denting of the two wheels, Daniels had been able to realize a watch compensating at the will of the user the difference of 3.555 minutes per day between solar and sidereal times.
Well aware that it was a sensational horological feat, Dr Daniels exhibited it sometimes at events as a dress watch, stating that it was the suitable instrument to control the time in a long telephone conversation during a trip to Mars.
The Space Traveller II was sold by Sotheby's for £ 3.2M on September 19, 2017, lot 121.
The equation of time is the difference between the apparent time, which can also be read on a sundial, and the sidereal time which takes its reference in the position of the fixed stars. This difference is an annual cycle due to the obliquity of the Earth and the ellipticity of its orbit.
The first pocket watch in which Daniels included the equation of time is his ninth opus, Elsom II, in 1975.
George Daniels was known for his wit. In 1979 he states that the accuracy of measurement obtained by Margetts, 1.8 seconds per year, is not sufficient for the control of time by an astronaut on his way to Mars. An astronomer from Cambridge University calculates for him a ratio between the two escapement wheels that will reduce the variance to 0.4 seconds per year.
The first pocket watch incorporating these new data is George Daniels' fifteenth opus, the Space Traveller, which also offers the annual calendar and the phases of the Moon. In 1982, shortly after finishing his Space Traveller, Daniels sold it to a collector, probably to meet a prior commitment.
The Space Traveller I was sold for £ 3.6M from a lower estimate of £ 700K by Sotheby's on July 2, 2019, lot 143.
Frustrated that he had parted away from his Space Traveller I, George Daniels realized in 1983 the Space Traveller II, inspired from the I to which he added a chronograph and a thermometer. He did not let go this specimen.
Based on a different denting of the two wheels, Daniels had been able to realize a watch compensating at the will of the user the difference of 3.555 minutes per day between solar and sidereal times.
Well aware that it was a sensational horological feat, Dr Daniels exhibited it sometimes at events as a dress watch, stating that it was the suitable instrument to control the time in a long telephone conversation during a trip to Mars.
The Space Traveller II was sold by Sotheby's for £ 3.2M on September 19, 2017, lot 121.
2
1992 Spring Case Tourbillon
2022 SOLD for CHF 4.1M by Phillips
Going further into miniaturization, George Daniels inserted for the first time his co-axial in a wristwatch in 1991. This watch named the Four Minute Tourbillon was sold on November 6, 2012 by Sotheby's for £ 385K, lot 13. The slim escapement was mounted in a steel four-minute tourbillon carriage. This piece also incorporated Daniels's compact chronograph mechanism.
He built during his career 23 pocket watches and 2 wristwatches. Two additional prototype wristwatches and two commercial series of wristwatches, the Millennium from 1998 and Anniversary from 2010, were crafted under his guidance for his brand by his partner Roger Smith.
Daniels's second prototype wristwatch, named the Spring Case Tourbillon, was completed in 1992 and used by him as his personal wristwatch for a decade. He parted from it in the early 2000s. It resurfaced two decades later and was sold by Phillips for CHF 4.1M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M on November 5, 2022, lot 27. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
The case is split into an outer smooth shell and an inner round element that contains the entirety of the dial and movement. A simple curved spring lines the bottom of the inner element and a hinge is attached to the external side. When a small button on the outside of the case is engaged, the inner element immediately jumps up and opens to reveal the reverse dial without requiring the watch to be taken off the wrist. The calendar and the visible one minute tourbillon are displayed on the reverse dial.
Built in 2019 by Smith with the movement number 00, a platinum Anniversary was sold for $ 2.4M by Phillips on June 11, 2022, lot 12.
He built during his career 23 pocket watches and 2 wristwatches. Two additional prototype wristwatches and two commercial series of wristwatches, the Millennium from 1998 and Anniversary from 2010, were crafted under his guidance for his brand by his partner Roger Smith.
Daniels's second prototype wristwatch, named the Spring Case Tourbillon, was completed in 1992 and used by him as his personal wristwatch for a decade. He parted from it in the early 2000s. It resurfaced two decades later and was sold by Phillips for CHF 4.1M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M on November 5, 2022, lot 27. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
The case is split into an outer smooth shell and an inner round element that contains the entirety of the dial and movement. A simple curved spring lines the bottom of the inner element and a hinge is attached to the external side. When a small button on the outside of the case is engaged, the inner element immediately jumps up and opens to reveal the reverse dial without requiring the watch to be taken off the wrist. The calendar and the visible one minute tourbillon are displayed on the reverse dial.
Built in 2019 by Smith with the movement number 00, a platinum Anniversary was sold for $ 2.4M by Phillips on June 11, 2022, lot 12.
Rolex
1
(1981)-1983 6263 ex Paul Newman
2020 SOLD for $ 5.5M by Phillips
Rolex launches in 1963 the Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 for the use of drivers of endurance racing cars. The brand believes that other customers will be proud to own such a watch with high-end performance. Sales are disappointing. To revive the model in late 1966 Rolex offers more stylish dials with a choice in a range of pleasing colors and with better designed numerals. This model is referred as 'exotic'.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. After the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by a group of collectors and dealers without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage was sold for $ 17.8M by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, lot 8. Its consignor was James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. It is the first of three watches discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips in 2017 for $ 17.8M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch was sold for $ 5.5M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Phillips on December 12, 2020, lot 38.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. After the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by a group of collectors and dealers without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage was sold for $ 17.8M by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, lot 8. Its consignor was James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. It is the first of three watches discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips in 2017 for $ 17.8M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch was sold for $ 5.5M from a lower estimate of $ 1M by Phillips on December 12, 2020, lot 38.
2
6270
2023 SOLD for CHF 3.7M by Phillips
On demand from wealthy clients, Rolex went to propose bejeweled sport wristwatches for men. The gold Cosmograph Daytona reference 6269, made in less than thirty pieces, is characterized by its brilliant-cut diamond bezel, diamond pavé set dial and golden subsidiary counters. It was discontinued in 1987.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared with breathtaking cobalt hue counters for Sultan Qaboos of Oman. Less than 20 specimens had been made. Only 8 of them are known to exist in 2023.
A 6270 dated 1985 by Christie's was sold by that auction house for CHF 905K by them on May 12, 2014, lot 206. Christie's observed that "this piece is so rare that one can hardly find any documentation or literature devoted to it". Dated ca 1988 by Phillips, the same example was sold by them for CHF 3.7M on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
A 18k gold 6269 made ca 1985 and stamped with the Rolex France logo was sold for CHF 1.6M by Christie's on May 9, 2022, lot 38.
In parallel to the 6269, the reference 6270 was prepared with breathtaking cobalt hue counters for Sultan Qaboos of Oman. Less than 20 specimens had been made. Only 8 of them are known to exist in 2023.
A 6270 dated 1985 by Christie's was sold by that auction house for CHF 905K by them on May 12, 2014, lot 206. Christie's observed that "this piece is so rare that one can hardly find any documentation or literature devoted to it". Dated ca 1988 by Phillips, the same example was sold by them for CHF 3.7M on May 13, 2023, lot 102.
from 1983 Swatch
1
Blum Collection
2011 SOLD for HK$ 51M by Phillips
Swatch is a great Swiss success story that enabled the reconquest of the market of cheap watches against an overwhelming dominance of the Japanese industry. This brand was launched in 1983 after three years of development.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
The idea of the founders was to reduce as much as possible the number of components in order to minimize the production costs. The technical challenge was to maintain in these conditions the accuracy of the instrument while ensuring an acceptable operating duration.
The marketing has been very innovative, promoting fun illustrations and even unprecedented uses. The user can pin his Swatch watch on his jacket or tie with it her ponytail. In 1985, some limited editions are illustrated by artists. Swatch collaborated with Kiki Picasso and Keith Haring, without neglecting the popular themes such as movies and sports competitions.
On November 24, 2011, Phillips sold the Blum collection as a single lot for HK $ 51M. Composed of a total of 4,370 pieces, this set included 795 prototypes, some of them predating the 1983 original release.
2
Dunkel Collection
2015 SOLD for HK$ 47M by Sotheby's
On April 7, 2015, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M the Dunkel collection, lot 2189. This super lot consists of 5,800 pieces including 45 prototypes, mainly from 1983 to 2008.
1989 Calibre 89 by Patek Philippe
Intro
The best wristwatches are highly sophisticated masterpieces of miniaturization. Pocket watches, not limited by the size of the wrist, can do even better in terms of cumulated complications.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrates its 150th anniversary with the Calibre 89, which had required more nine years of design, manufacturing and assembly. According to the brand at that time, it is the "most complicated watch in the world": double open faced with a dial for solar time and a dial for sidereal time, 33 complications, 24 hands, 1,728 components. They fit in a case 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick weighing 1,100 grams.
The Calibre 89 was produced in only four copies, respectively in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.
It is now overcome in complexity by the unique specimen of Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, a unique pocket watch made in 2015 for a private customer.
1
Yellow Gold
2009 SOLD for CHF 5.1M by Antiquorum
The working prototype of the Calibre 89 was completed in July 1988 and the yellow gold specimen was released only nine month afterward. It was immediately offered in Geneva in a themed auction devoted to 'The Art of Patek Philippe' : that brand new watch fetched the equivalent of US$ 3.2M at Habsburg Feldman on April 9, 1989 which was at that time a world auction record for a watch.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
This unit was sold for CHF 5.1M on November 14, 2009 by Antiquorum successor to Habsburg Feldman, lot 364. It passed at Sotheby's on May 14, 2017, lot 171.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the shorter one is an appealing introduction of that lot. The other video is cleverly showing the indexes related to the complications.
2
White Gold
2004 SOLD for CHF 6.6M by Antiquorum (worth US $ 5M at that time)
On April 24, 2004, Antiquorum sold the white gold watch for CHF 6.6M then worth US$ 5M. That sale celebrated the 30th anniversary of the auction house, formerly Habsburg Feldman.
1992 Grande et Petite Sonnerie by Philippe Dufour
2021 SOLD for CHF 4.75M by Phillips
Philippe Dufour is beside George Daniels one of the most skilled independent watchmakers. While working for a major brand, he executed from 1982 to 1988 the very first five Grande Sonnerie movements integrated in a pocket watch. Five units were assembled.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the passing of the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same sonneries into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14.
Only five examples of that wristwatch had been made : two cased in white gold, the above example in yellow gold, one in pink gold and one in platinum.
After incorporating the Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
A Grande Sonnerie chimes the hours on every hour plus every quarter while a Petite Sonnerie only chimes the passing of the quarters.
Dufour continued his career by creating his own company and brand.
A unique and number 1 Philippe Dufour 60 mm in diameter pocket watch made in yellow gold in 1989 with minute repeating and grande et petite sonneries was sold for CHF 2.33M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 145.
The inventor went further into the miniaturization and was able to integrate the same sonneries into wristwatches. His movement number 1 is integrated in 1992 in a 41 mm yellow gold watch. It integrates a two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie. On November 5, 2021 in the first session of the same sale as above, it was sold for CHF 4.75M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M, lot 14.
Only five examples of that wristwatch had been made : two cased in white gold, the above example in yellow gold, one in pink gold and one in platinum.
After incorporating the Sonneries, Philippe Dufour made his hand to limited series with other features.
Made in 1996, Duality is the first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement. 9 pieces were made. A platinum Duality numbered 00 was sold for $ 915K by Phillips on October 26, 2017, lot 47. A pink gold Duality was sold for CHF 3.66M by Phillips on November 7, 2021, lot 190. It is the last specimen, bearing the number 8.
Simplicity was developed in 2000 with about 200 planned to be produced. This hand finished small model 37 mm in diameter may be considered as a culmination of Swiss traditional watchmaking.
A Simplicity assembled in 2004 in platinum with guilloché dial was sold for CHF 760K by Phillips on November 5, 2021, lot 115. A pink gold Simplicity from the 2020 20th Anniversary sub-series was sold for CHF 1.36M by Phillips on November 8, 2020, lot 206.
No other model than the examples above was released with the Philippe Dufour brand name.
2000 F.P. Journe Souscription
2021 SOLD for CHF 3.9M by Phillips
Established in central Geneva, François-Paul Journe creates in 1999 his watchmaking Montres Journe company with the F.P. Journe brand. His proud motto "invenit et fecit" is inscribed on the dials of his watches for stating that he is an independent designer and maker.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M from a lower estimate of CHF 200K. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
His first model is the tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité. The use of a tourbillon is a tribute to Breguet. The remontoir d'égalité from the invention by John Harrison for his marine chronometer had never been embedded before in a wristwatch. This component provides an equal amount of energy whatever the winding level of the main spring. The combination of tourbillon and remontoir improves the accuracy.
Journe launched his business by a subscription for 20 units of that first model, available for selected customers with a 20 % discount on the expected retail price and a 50 % advance payment. The serial model in the souscription is inscribed on the the dial.
He later managed a similar financing process for his next four models, reserving for the same patron the serial number originally attributed in the starting operation. By that way a clever collector had the Number Ones of the five models of precision wristwatches created by the brand. He kept them in a single wood box and consigned them separately for sale by Phillips on November 7, 2021.
The lot 138 had been the very first item released by the brand, in 1999. This platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité was sold for CHF 3.54M from a lower estimate of CHF 300K.
The lot 140 was the first from the 2000 model Chronomètre à Résonance, in platinum and pink gold. It was sold for CHF 3.9M from a lower estimate of CHF 200K. The resonance is a tribute to Breguet's resonating escapements. It is achieved by two interacting mechanisms.
The other three were the 2003 Octa Réserve de Marche with a record setting 120 hour power reserve, sold for CHF 550K at lot 139, the 2004 Octa Chronographe, sold for CHF 960K at lot 141, and the 2003 Octa Calendrier, sold for CHF 940K at lot 142. The Journe Souscription wooden box where the five wristwatches had been housed was sold for CHF 100K as a charity lot for the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, lot 143.
The number 2/20 in the souscription of the first Journe model, the 1999 platinum tourbillon souverain wristwatch with remontoir d'égalité, was sold for CHF 2.7M by Christie's on May 12, 2023, lot 2039.
