CARTIER
See also : Jewels II Blue diamond African diamonds White diamond Jadeite necklace Glass and crystal Qianlong India Islam Spain III Ancient Spain British Royals
Chronology : 1570-1599 1620-1629 1912 1933 1972
Chronology : 1570-1599 1620-1629 1912 1933 1972
1912 Serti Muguet by Cartier
2014 SOLD for CHF 16M including premium by Christie's
2019 SOLD for $ 10.6M including premium
PRE 2019 SALE DISCUSSION
At the turn of the 20th century, Paris is the capital of luxury. Located in rue de la Paix, the Cartier brand develops its expertise in jewelry and watchmaking and organizes a network of subcontractors including Henri Picq. One of its main innovations is the use of platinum for the high end.
France does not produce diamonds. The Cartier brothers visit India. The Maharajas choose the most beautiful gems in their collections for Cartier to assemble magnificent jewels matching their taste. This practice inspires some exotic designs later offered to all customers.
This well managed international reputation includes Southern Africa. Solomon Barnato Joel, who made a fortune with his family in the gold and diamond mines, ships four beautiful diamonds for making a jewel.
Cartier assembles a brooch in platinum and white gold for use as a devant de corsage, whose 9.2 cm high pendant aligns the four diamonds. The pendant is surrounded by four hanging sprigs of lily of the valley whose flowers are small diamonds set on platinum, a specialty of Picq. This jewel dated 1912 was later expanded by a necklace with a similar 'serti muguet'.
The four main diamonds were certified by the GIA in 2013. The largest is a pear-shaped of 34.08 carats in E color. The best is an oval-shaped type IIa D color of 23.55 carats with a VVS2 clarity potentially Internally Flawless.
This brooch was sold for CHF 16M including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2014 over a lower estimate of CHF 6.5M. It is estimated $ 10M for sale by Christie's in New York on June 19, lot 277.
At the turn of the 20th century, Paris is the capital of luxury. Located in rue de la Paix, the Cartier brand develops its expertise in jewelry and watchmaking and organizes a network of subcontractors including Henri Picq. One of its main innovations is the use of platinum for the high end.
France does not produce diamonds. The Cartier brothers visit India. The Maharajas choose the most beautiful gems in their collections for Cartier to assemble magnificent jewels matching their taste. This practice inspires some exotic designs later offered to all customers.
This well managed international reputation includes Southern Africa. Solomon Barnato Joel, who made a fortune with his family in the gold and diamond mines, ships four beautiful diamonds for making a jewel.
Cartier assembles a brooch in platinum and white gold for use as a devant de corsage, whose 9.2 cm high pendant aligns the four diamonds. The pendant is surrounded by four hanging sprigs of lily of the valley whose flowers are small diamonds set on platinum, a specialty of Picq. This jewel dated 1912 was later expanded by a necklace with a similar 'serti muguet'.
The four main diamonds were certified by the GIA in 2013. The largest is a pear-shaped of 34.08 carats in E color. The best is an oval-shaped type IIa D color of 23.55 carats with a VVS2 clarity potentially Internally Flawless.
This brooch was sold for CHF 16M including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2014 over a lower estimate of CHF 6.5M. It is estimated $ 10M for sale by Christie's in New York on June 19, lot 277.
Qing and 1933 - The Greatest Jadeite Necklace
2014 SOLD 214 MHK$ including premium
Jadeite exists in various colors. Green is a common color of jadeite when it contains chromium. The finest hues are Imperial green, intense green and vivid green. They come almost exclusively from Burma, currently Myanmar.
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of the stone is lost.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
The prestige of jade reached the Western world. A lot of 27 highly reflective emerald green jadeite beads, between 15.4 and 19.2 mm in diameter, is included in 1933 in the inventory of Cartier.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847. It had been estimated in excess of HK $ 100M.
On April 7, 2010, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M as lot 1457 a necklace 53 cm long, assembled with 35 jadeite beads, selected for their homogeneous emerald green color and for their similar size, between 12.5 and 15 mm. This piece is equipped with a clasp in platinum and diamonds signed by Cartier.
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of the stone is lost.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
The prestige of jade reached the Western world. A lot of 27 highly reflective emerald green jadeite beads, between 15.4 and 19.2 mm in diameter, is included in 1933 in the inventory of Cartier.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847. It had been estimated in excess of HK $ 100M.
On April 7, 2010, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M as lot 1457 a necklace 53 cm long, assembled with 35 jadeite beads, selected for their homogeneous emerald green color and for their similar size, between 12.5 and 15 mm. This piece is equipped with a clasp in platinum and diamonds signed by Cartier.
1937 The Queen of Burma
2014 SOLD for CHF 5.9M by Christie's
The sales of fine jewelry by Christie's and Sotheby's in Geneva are full of great stones, and it is not possible to discuss all of them in this column. It will suffice at this time to introduce two rubies.
On November 11, Christie's sells the Queen of Burma, lot 337 estimated CHF 5,25M.
This large oval ruby weighing 23.66 carats was set on a ring by Cartier and sold by Cartier London in 1937 to a Maharajah. Its color is a saturated pink-red due to a combination of elements that exist nowhere else than in the mines of Mogok.
In the catalog, Christie's compare this lot to the Hope Ruby from the Safra collection, slightly bigger at 32.08 carats, sold by them for CHF 6.2 million including premium on May 14, 2012.
On November 12, Sotheby's sells the Graff Ruby, lot 470estimated CHF 6.5M.
Weighing 8.62 carats, this cushion-shaped ruby is exceptional for its vivid red color named pigeon's blood, a great rarity in its weight range. Its purity and brilliance are excellent. It also can come only from Mogok.
Laurence Graff, who mounted it on a ring, regarded it as the most beautiful ruby he had ever seen. There cannot be a better recommendation for this wonderful gem.
RESULTS INCLUDING PREMIUM
Christie's SOLD for CHF 5.9M the Queen of Burma ruby.
Sotheby's SOLD for CHF 8.3M the Graff ruby
On November 11, Christie's sells the Queen of Burma, lot 337 estimated CHF 5,25M.
This large oval ruby weighing 23.66 carats was set on a ring by Cartier and sold by Cartier London in 1937 to a Maharajah. Its color is a saturated pink-red due to a combination of elements that exist nowhere else than in the mines of Mogok.
In the catalog, Christie's compare this lot to the Hope Ruby from the Safra collection, slightly bigger at 32.08 carats, sold by them for CHF 6.2 million including premium on May 14, 2012.
On November 12, Sotheby's sells the Graff Ruby, lot 470estimated CHF 6.5M.
Weighing 8.62 carats, this cushion-shaped ruby is exceptional for its vivid red color named pigeon's blood, a great rarity in its weight range. Its purity and brilliance are excellent. It also can come only from Mogok.
Laurence Graff, who mounted it on a ring, regarded it as the most beautiful ruby he had ever seen. There cannot be a better recommendation for this wonderful gem.
RESULTS INCLUDING PREMIUM
Christie's SOLD for CHF 5.9M the Queen of Burma ruby.
Sotheby's SOLD for CHF 8.3M the Graff ruby
1952 Cartier's Bestiary
2010 SOLD 4.5 M£ including premium
Jewelry is an austere art, in search of purity and perfection. Louis Cartier had the audacity and talent to ignore this statement. The jewelry created by his brand assembled quality gems to illustrate figurative themes, often floral or animal. It is not fancy but all refinement and good taste.
The Duke and Duchess of Windsor especially appreciated for years the works created by Jeanne Toussaint, director of high jewelry at Cartier.
Two jewels that had participated in the fabulous sale of the Windsor jewels in April 1987 at Sotheby's in Geneva come back to the same auction house in London on November 30. Each one is estimated 1 million pounds.
The most ancient, purchased by the Duchess in 1940, is a very elegant flamingo brooch made of ruby, sapphire, emerald, citrine and diamonds. Designed in 1952, the other jewel is an original panther bracelet in onyx and diamonds. Both are illustrated in the article shared by Bloomberg.
The compositions of colored gems promoted by Cartier were not only figurative. Jeanne Toussaint had developed in the 1920s these tutti frutti bracelets that were the most original jewelry of that time.
POST SALE COMMENT
The remarkable panther bracelet, designed to undulate around the wrist, was sold £ 4.5 million including premium, far above its estimate.
The flamingo brooch also got a very good price: £ 1.7 million including premium.
The Duke and Duchess of Windsor especially appreciated for years the works created by Jeanne Toussaint, director of high jewelry at Cartier.
Two jewels that had participated in the fabulous sale of the Windsor jewels in April 1987 at Sotheby's in Geneva come back to the same auction house in London on November 30. Each one is estimated 1 million pounds.
The most ancient, purchased by the Duchess in 1940, is a very elegant flamingo brooch made of ruby, sapphire, emerald, citrine and diamonds. Designed in 1952, the other jewel is an original panther bracelet in onyx and diamonds. Both are illustrated in the article shared by Bloomberg.
The compositions of colored gems promoted by Cartier were not only figurative. Jeanne Toussaint had developed in the 1920s these tutti frutti bracelets that were the most original jewelry of that time.
POST SALE COMMENT
The remarkable panther bracelet, designed to undulate around the wrist, was sold £ 4.5 million including premium, far above its estimate.
The flamingo brooch also got a very good price: £ 1.7 million including premium.
1582-1972 Peregrination of a Pearl
2011 SOLD 11.8 M$ including premium
A pearl made five hundred years ago by an anonymous mollusk in the Gulf of Panama got a fabulous destiny. Used in jewelry of all kinds to meet the changes of fashion, it demonstrates that not only diamonds are forever.
It entered in 1582 into the Spanish royal collection, where it was considered as the biggest pearl in the world. Pear-shaped, it was then weighing 223 grains.
Mary I of England, wife of Philip II of Spain, used it very elegantly as a pendant to a brooch. Philip IV of Spain preferred it as a hat pin. It went to France during the Spanish war of Joseph Bonaparte, and Napoleon III sold it to the English aristocracy.
This wandering pearl has been known for two centuries under the name La Peregrina. It lost twenty grains when it was reworked to improve the security of its setting.
Richard Burton bought it in 1969 at Sotheby's auction as a gift to Elizabeth Taylor.
It was mounted as pendant in a pearl necklace that did not please its new owners. Burton and Taylor then made designed by Cartier in 1972 the magnificent necklace of pearls, rubies and diamonds, where it is again hanging as pendant.
This necklace, estimated $ 2M, is for sale on December 13 in New York by Christie's., lot 12.
POST SALE COMMENT
This is a new successful step in the fabulous history of the pearl. Sold $ 11.8 million including premium, its necklace achieved the highest result in one of the best jewelry sales in auction history: total $ 116M including premium for only 80 lots.
It entered in 1582 into the Spanish royal collection, where it was considered as the biggest pearl in the world. Pear-shaped, it was then weighing 223 grains.
Mary I of England, wife of Philip II of Spain, used it very elegantly as a pendant to a brooch. Philip IV of Spain preferred it as a hat pin. It went to France during the Spanish war of Joseph Bonaparte, and Napoleon III sold it to the English aristocracy.
This wandering pearl has been known for two centuries under the name La Peregrina. It lost twenty grains when it was reworked to improve the security of its setting.
Richard Burton bought it in 1969 at Sotheby's auction as a gift to Elizabeth Taylor.
It was mounted as pendant in a pearl necklace that did not please its new owners. Burton and Taylor then made designed by Cartier in 1972 the magnificent necklace of pearls, rubies and diamonds, where it is again hanging as pendant.
This necklace, estimated $ 2M, is for sale on December 13 in New York by Christie's., lot 12.
POST SALE COMMENT
This is a new successful step in the fabulous history of the pearl. Sold $ 11.8 million including premium, its necklace achieved the highest result in one of the best jewelry sales in auction history: total $ 116M including premium for only 80 lots.
1627-1972 The Taj Mahal of Elizabeth Taylor
2011 SOLD for $ 8.8M including premium by Christie's
narrated in 2021
The ideal art, which makes the whole world dream, must evoke love, death and wealth at the same time. Adding elegance and monumentality, I described the Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of the beloved wife of Shah Jahan.
In 1972, for Elizabeth Taylor's 40th birthday, Richard Burton humorously declares that he would have liked to offer her the Taj Mahal but that the monument was not transportable. The real gift is an evocation of it : a Mughal piece of jewelry, which Burton had bought for around £ 350K.
This jewel is centered with a large heart-shaped diamond inserted in a surrounding of same shape in red stones, jade and small diamonds. The diamond is inscribed in Persian : Nur Jahan Baygum Padshah, 23, 1037. The ribbon for using it as a pendant is faded. Liz Taylor has it replaced by Cartier with a gold chain terminated by a fraying of gold threads bearing rubies.
In the Hegira calendar, 1037, corresponding to 1627 CE, is the year of Jahangir's death in the 23rd year of his reign and thus marks the end of the long recency of his wife Nur Jahan. Shah Jahan is the son and successor of Jahangir.
On December 13, 2011, in the auction by Christie's of Elizabeth Taylor's estate, this jewel designated as the Taj Mahal was sold for $ 8.8M including premium from a lower estimate of $ 300K, lot 56.
After the sale, the buyer, who remained anonymous, understands that there is no evidence that the Taj Mahal jewel was ever in the hands of Jahangir or Shah Jahan. He is an important customer and Christie's is attempting to cancel the sale of this lot. The trust in charge of the actress's estate opposed it in 2015 and 2017 by legal complaints, arguing the absence of irregularity. The end of the story is not known.
In 1972, for Elizabeth Taylor's 40th birthday, Richard Burton humorously declares that he would have liked to offer her the Taj Mahal but that the monument was not transportable. The real gift is an evocation of it : a Mughal piece of jewelry, which Burton had bought for around £ 350K.
This jewel is centered with a large heart-shaped diamond inserted in a surrounding of same shape in red stones, jade and small diamonds. The diamond is inscribed in Persian : Nur Jahan Baygum Padshah, 23, 1037. The ribbon for using it as a pendant is faded. Liz Taylor has it replaced by Cartier with a gold chain terminated by a fraying of gold threads bearing rubies.
In the Hegira calendar, 1037, corresponding to 1627 CE, is the year of Jahangir's death in the 23rd year of his reign and thus marks the end of the long recency of his wife Nur Jahan. Shah Jahan is the son and successor of Jahangir.
On December 13, 2011, in the auction by Christie's of Elizabeth Taylor's estate, this jewel designated as the Taj Mahal was sold for $ 8.8M including premium from a lower estimate of $ 300K, lot 56.
After the sale, the buyer, who remained anonymous, understands that there is no evidence that the Taj Mahal jewel was ever in the hands of Jahangir or Shah Jahan. He is an important customer and Christie's is attempting to cancel the sale of this lot. The trust in charge of the actress's estate opposed it in 2015 and 2017 by legal complaints, arguing the absence of irregularity. The end of the story is not known.
(2010)-2016 Blue Diamonds are Eternal
2016 SOLD for CHF 17M including premium
Diamonds are eternal but their assembly within a jewel may change. The same gem can therefore be the star lot of two auctions a few years apart with a different surrounding.
The GIA report numbered 2125017707, dated 8 June 2010, applied to a Type IIb diamond weighing 8.01 carat, guaranteeing its natural, Fancy Vivid Blue color and VVS1 clarity.
This gem is close to the best, in the most prestigious color and a clarity which is second only to Internally Flawless. Fancy vivid blue diamonds rarely exceed that weight. It was sold for HK$ 100M including premium by Sotheby's on 3 April 2012.
I commented it as follows at that time :
"The emerald cut is the most prestigious for colored diamonds. It guarantees the natural qualities of the diamond and does not alter the color.
"Sotheby's sells an emerald cut fancy vivid blue mounted on a platinum ring between two small white diamonds. The press release indicates that this is the largest fancy vivid blue in emerald cut to appear at auction for many years."
Now identified as the Sky Blue Diamond, it is more accurately described as square cut which better stresses its great shape achievement, and assembled on a more exuberant Cartier ring set with brilliant cut and baguette diamonds.
It is estimated CHF 14.76M worth US $ 15M for sale by Sotheby's in Geneva on November 16, lot 337. Please watch the video shared by WSJ.
The GIA report numbered 2125017707, dated 8 June 2010, applied to a Type IIb diamond weighing 8.01 carat, guaranteeing its natural, Fancy Vivid Blue color and VVS1 clarity.
This gem is close to the best, in the most prestigious color and a clarity which is second only to Internally Flawless. Fancy vivid blue diamonds rarely exceed that weight. It was sold for HK$ 100M including premium by Sotheby's on 3 April 2012.
I commented it as follows at that time :
"The emerald cut is the most prestigious for colored diamonds. It guarantees the natural qualities of the diamond and does not alter the color.
"Sotheby's sells an emerald cut fancy vivid blue mounted on a platinum ring between two small white diamonds. The press release indicates that this is the largest fancy vivid blue in emerald cut to appear at auction for many years."
Now identified as the Sky Blue Diamond, it is more accurately described as square cut which better stresses its great shape achievement, and assembled on a more exuberant Cartier ring set with brilliant cut and baguette diamonds.
It is estimated CHF 14.76M worth US $ 15M for sale by Sotheby's in Geneva on November 16, lot 337. Please watch the video shared by WSJ.
Pigeon Blood from Burma
2015 SOLD for CHF 28M including premium
The best rubies in the world are extracted from the Burmese valley of Mogok in Myanmar. They are the only ones to exhibit both a vivid and saturated crimson red pigeon blood color and an internal crystal structure that enhance the dispersion of light. The cushion cut is perfect for them.
The Hope ruby from the Lily Safra collection was a pigeon blood weighing 32.08 carats mounted on a ring by Chaumet. It was sold for CHF 6.2 million including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2012.
The beauty of a ruby is also closely linked to its internal structure, and the price does not depend only on its weight. Considered as exceptional by Graff, the Graff ruby was sold for CHF 8.3 million including premium by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014, a great price for a stone which weighs only 8.62 carats. Its price per carat is almost competing with the best pink or blue diamonds.
Another pigeon blood wonder, exceptional in its shade and its weight, is for sale at Sotheby's in Geneva on May 12. The Sunrise ruby is weighing 25.59 carats. It was mounted on a ring between two diamonds by Cartier. It is estimated CHF 11.7 million corresponding to US $ 12M, lot 502.
The Hope ruby from the Lily Safra collection was a pigeon blood weighing 32.08 carats mounted on a ring by Chaumet. It was sold for CHF 6.2 million including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2012.
The beauty of a ruby is also closely linked to its internal structure, and the price does not depend only on its weight. Considered as exceptional by Graff, the Graff ruby was sold for CHF 8.3 million including premium by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014, a great price for a stone which weighs only 8.62 carats. Its price per carat is almost competing with the best pink or blue diamonds.
Another pigeon blood wonder, exceptional in its shade and its weight, is for sale at Sotheby's in Geneva on May 12. The Sunrise ruby is weighing 25.59 carats. It was mounted on a ring between two diamonds by Cartier. It is estimated CHF 11.7 million corresponding to US $ 12M, lot 502.
The most valuable ruby ever sold at auction: The Sunrise Ruby sells for US$ 30.3m in Geneva #SothebysJewels pic.twitter.com/s5ezt5Qah8
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) May 12, 2015
Diamond and Rock crystal bangle by Cartier
2021 SOLD for HK$ 47M by Sotheby's
For more than a century, Cartier is the most innovative designer of composite jewels. L'Odyssée de Cartier, subtitled Parcours d'un Style, is their current high jewelry collection inspired by their signature breakthroughs. These styles include, but are not limited to, the Panther, Indian influences and Tutti Frutti, the Orchid, African influences.
On April 20, 2021, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M a bangle of Art Déco inspiration signed by Cartier, lot 1744. The March 15 press release reported that this jewel had taken nearly 2,000 hours to create.
This bracelet of 17 cm inner circumference is mounted in 18 karat white gold. Its major component is a pear-shaped D-color Internally flawless white diamond weighing 63.66 carats. It is surrounded with calibré-cut rock crystals and brilliant-cut diamonds.
In the 1920s Louis Cartier had been a pioneer of the use of polished rock crystal in high jewelry. The pairing of this material with the diamonds provides an appealing dual effect of soft and bright shines.
On April 20, 2021, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 47M a bangle of Art Déco inspiration signed by Cartier, lot 1744. The March 15 press release reported that this jewel had taken nearly 2,000 hours to create.
This bracelet of 17 cm inner circumference is mounted in 18 karat white gold. Its major component is a pear-shaped D-color Internally flawless white diamond weighing 63.66 carats. It is surrounded with calibré-cut rock crystals and brilliant-cut diamonds.
In the 1920s Louis Cartier had been a pioneer of the use of polished rock crystal in high jewelry. The pairing of this material with the diamonds provides an appealing dual effect of soft and bright shines.
The Rock
2022 SOLD for CHF 21.7M by Christie's
The Rock is the largest white diamond ever offered at auction. It was sold for CHF 21.7M by Christie's on May 11, 2022, lot 26.
Mined in South Africa more than 20 years earlier, it is brilliant cut in pear shape. Its characteristics are 228.31 carats, G color, VS1 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, 61.3 grams.
G is the highest grade in the near-colorless range. displaying a very faint yellow tint. If the cut is perfect, a G diamond looks identical to a colorless D when viewed with the naked eye.
The Rock has been mounted by Cartier with a round diamond and platinum pendant, for an overall size of 5.4 x 3.1 cm.
Mined in South Africa more than 20 years earlier, it is brilliant cut in pear shape. Its characteristics are 228.31 carats, G color, VS1 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, 61.3 grams.
G is the highest grade in the near-colorless range. displaying a very faint yellow tint. If the cut is perfect, a G diamond looks identical to a colorless D when viewed with the naked eye.
The Rock has been mounted by Cartier with a round diamond and platinum pendant, for an overall size of 5.4 x 3.1 cm.
#AuctionUpdate 'The Rock,' the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for CHF21,681,000 / $21,894,082 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale on 11 May 2022. □ pic.twitter.com/39hRUU1E0u
— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) May 12, 2022
