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White Diamond

Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
​See also :  Cartier
Chronology : 2010-2019  2011

Intro

The chemically pure diamonds are referred as Type IIa and their absence of color is identified as D-color. The other criteria are their weight in carats, their internal and external clarity and the quality of cutting, polishing and symmetry. When the other characteristics are similar, larger diamonds reach a higher price per carat.

​The perfect clarity is the Flawless, with no visible inclusion at x60 magnification. Internally Flawless represents the same inner clarity but admits some slight blemish on the surface.

masterpiece
Koh-i Nor
London Tower 

Gemmologists recognize through some exceptional qualities when a ruby comes from Mogok, a sapphire from Kashmir or a diamond from Golconda.

Type IIa diamonds are the brightest of all categories when they are pure. The top standardized grade for colorless gems is the D color. However the best Golconda diamonds also have an absolute transparency that exceeds the D grade. It is extremely rare for a diamond from another source to display such a purity and clarity.

For two millennia until the beginning of the 18th century, India was the only diamond producing country. Aware of this exceptional opportunity, local princes have long kept the best for their exclusive use.

Golconda was a network of mines. The best, the Kollur mine, produced among others the Koh-i-Noor, the Regent, the Orlov, which contributed to the prestige of Great Britain, France and Russia. Deserted after the depletion of the vein, Kollur was in ruins when its site was identified by a geologist in the 1880s.

Tastes have changed and technologies have improved. An ancient cutting is very often recognizable as such. A small grinding is encouraged if it helps a Potentially Flawless to reach the ultimate grade of clarity, Internally Flawless.

​
The image of the Koh-i Noor in the front cross of Queen Mary's crown is shared by Wikimedia.
Queen Mary's Crown

the Archduke Joseph
2012 SOLD CHF 20.4M by Christie's

In Geneva in November 1993, Christie's sold for CHF 9.7M the Archduke Joseph diamond. It was a fabulous price for the time even after considering that the Swiss currency was at one third below the U.S. dollar.

This is one of the largest perfect diamonds of Golconda type : D color and internally flawless. Being now at 76.02 carats, it achieves a weight equal to 72% of the Koh-i-Noor, the 105.602 carat diamond that adorns the British Royal crown.

Its antique cut is cushion-like, although for such big diamonds it is not quite possible to fully meet a standardized shape classification. Like many old diamonds, it has been reworked in the last century to improve its clarity and symmetry.

Previously owned by the Habsburgs, it bears the name of a prince who was briefly regent of Hungary at the time of the fall of his dynasty.

It was sold for CHF 20.4M from a lower estimate of US $ 15M on November 13, 2012, again by Christie's. It is US $ 280K per carat, the highest recorded price per carat at auction at that time for a colorless diamond.

Please watch the Gallery Talk video prepared by Christie's :

Austral Africa

1
​The Rock
2022 SOLD for CHF 21.7M by Christie's

The Rock is the largest white diamond ever offered at auction. ​It was sold for CHF 21.7M by Christie's on May 11, 2022, lot 26.

Mined in South Africa more than 20 years earlier, it is brilliant cut in pear shape. Its characteristics are 228.31 carats, G color, VS1 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, 61.3 grams.

G is the highest grade in the near-colorless range. displaying a very faint yellow tint. If the cut is perfect, a G diamond looks identical to a colorless D when viewed with the naked eye. 

The Rock has been mounted by Cartier with a round diamond and platinum pendant, for an overall size of 5.4 x 3.1 cm.

#AuctionUpdate 'The Rock,' the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for CHF21,681,000 / $21,894,082 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale on 11 May 2022. □ pic.twitter.com/39hRUU1E0u

— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) May 12, 2022

2
​​2016 necklace by De Grisogono
​2017 SOLD for CHF 33.5M by Christie's

Since the depletion of Golconda, the finest pure diamonds of Type IIa are extracted in Austral Africa : South Africa, Lesotho, Botswana, Angola.

​The arrival on the market of exceptional pieces of very recent extraction certainly demonstrates improvements in the techniques of prospecting, but also in the preparation of perfect diamonds.

​On 
November 14, 2017, Christie's sold as lot 505 for CHF 33.5M a diamond type IIa, D color, Flawless clarity. Weighing 163.41 carats, it is the largest perfect white diamond ever offered at auction and one of the largest ever inspected by the GIA. This performance is not the result of chance but of the involvement of the best specialists in the world.

The steps are told in detail by Christie's in the featured post.

The rough stone is extracted in Angola in February 2016. Weighing 404 carats, it is promising while being far from the records. Its quality is confirmed in New York by spectrography. For several weeks a team of experts researches the defects of the crystal.

Its bean form is not directly usable. In June, the world's best diamond cleaver with more than 50 years of experience cuts the stone in two halves from the middle. The polishing in emerald cut lasts six months, facet after facet.

They must now design a piece of jewelry highlighting this unprecedented wonder. The diamond is brought in December 2016 to De Grisogono in Geneva, which designs an asymmetrical necklace of emeralds and diamonds in 44 cm length. The jewel entrusted to Christie's then travels around the world before returning to Geneva for its auction sale

Later this fall @ChristiesInc will #auction off 163-carat #diamond set into a necklace by @deGRISOGONO #degrisogono https://t.co/jvFFoVvZVF pic.twitter.com/dLcwY9bdy3

— National Jeweler (@NationalJeweler) October 2, 2017
Decade 2010-2019

3
​2011 118 carats
2013 SOLD for HK$ 240 MHK$ by Sotheby's

The diamond sold by Sotheby's on October 7, 2013 is D Type  and Flawless, and weighs 118.28 carats. It fetched HK $ 240M.

It is oval cut from a 299 carat rough stone discovered in 2011 in a deep mine of southern Africa whose detailed location is not revealed. Its polishing and symmetry are certified excellent by the gemological laboratories.
2011

4
​2010s the Winston Legacy
2013 SOLD for CHF 26M by Christie's

Botswana's mines are operated jointly by the government and by De Beers, with all the precautions that you can imagine. Indeed the small town of Jwaneng was founded in 1982 as a closed community only accessible by permission of the government.

Because of this relatively recent operation, fabulous gems are still waiting to be discovered. The modern art of diamond will do the rest, as technological advances now enable to cut diamonds of perfect shape and symmetry.

Consider an example from the past. The Cullinan, extracted in Transvaal in 1905, was a gem of 3,106 carats. Nine major diamonds were cut from it, including the pear shaped Great Star of Africa achieved at 530.2 carats after eight months of preparation for adorning the British Royal sceptre.

On May 15, 2013, Christie's sold for CHF 26M a perfect diamond (type IIa, D color, flawless). It is pear shaped at 101.73 carats representing an excellent yield for that rough stone of 236 carats extracted in Jwaneng. Its polishing required 21 months of work. It was named the Winston Legacy after the sale.

The new wonder from Jwaneng was in its time the biggest perfect diamond ever presented at auction. Although having no other history than its discovery and preparation, its price per carat, US $ 270K, is consistent with the price recorded by Christie's in 2012 on the Archduke Joseph.

5
emerald cut
2015 SOLD for $ 22M by Sotheby's

The southern African ground is full of wonderful stones. The perfect white diamond for sale by Sotheby's on April 21, 2015 is another example of a recent extraction. It weighs 100.20 carats after being worked from a rough gem of 200 carats, which is an excellent weight ratio.

It was sold for $ 22M, lot 357.

From the mineralogical point of view, it is perfect : Type IIa, D color and internally flawless despite its large size.

Compared to other diamonds of same quality and comparable weight, it has the rare feature in its size class of being emerald cut, offering one of the best possible shine.

#BeMine This 100-carat perfect diamond in a classic Emerald-cut will lead our 21 April jewelry sale in NYC □□ pic.twitter.com/0iI4fzIHfo

— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) February 13, 2015

6
2005 Chloe
​2007 SOLD for CHF 18.2M, worth at that time US$ 16.2M, by Sotheby's

The most resplendent cut is the round brilliant. This shape is rarely practiced from large gems because the perfection is obtained at the expense of a loss of material. An oval with perfect facets can approach the quality of a round diamond. Some other elongated shapes such as pear or emerald also offer very satisfactory results.

A brilliant cut white diamond of D color and top purity was sold on November 13, 2007 by Sotheby's for CHF 18.2M worth at that time US $ 16.2M. It was named Chloe by the successful bidder after his daughter.

This brilliant cut diamond is weighing 84.37 carats. Its price per carat is US $ 190K. Its original owner bought it ca 2005 from the Angola state-run diamond company.

In 2018 Sotheby's Diamonds privately sold a round diamond weighing 102.34 carats, extracted from a 425 carat rough stone mined by De Beers in Botswana. The price of the transaction was not disclosed.

Star of the Season
​1995 SOLD for CHF 20M, worth at that time US$ 16.5M, by Sotheby's

A pear shape cut is an invitation to suspend a diamond to a necklace.

Star of the Season
, pear-shaped, 100.10 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, was sold for CHF 20M, worth at that time US $ 16.5M, which is US$ 165K per carat, by Sotheby’s in May 1995. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.

The Juno, Type IIa D color Internally flawless pear shaped diamond weighing 101.41 carats, was sold for $ 13M by Sotheby's on June 16, 2022 which is $ 130K per carat, lot 488.

The flawless The Key, 101.34 carats, sold by Sotheby's on July 9, 2021 for HK $ 95M which is US $ 120K per carat, lot 1.

​The Mouawad Splendour
, modified pear-shape, 101.84 carats, D color, Internally Flawless was sold for CHF 16M by Sotheby’s in November 1990. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.

The Star of Happiness
1993 SOLD for CHF 18M, worth at that time US$ 12M, by Sotheby's

The Star of Happiness, rectangular-shape, 100.36 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, was sold for CHF 18M, worth at that time US $ 12M, by Sotheby’s in November 1993. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.

​2016 Miroir de l'Amour by Boehmer et Bassenge
​2016 SOLD for CHF 17.6M by Christie's

Paris remains a capital of luxury. A new workshop has been created with a single specialty : assembling jewels composed of diamonds that are perfect by their white D-Type color, their flawless clarity and their symmetry.

Diamonds are forever and elegance too. These newcomers connect with the past by taking the name Boehmer et Bassenge.

This double name that had gone into the oblivion of history was that of the jewelers entrusted by Louis XV in 1772 to create the most stunning necklace of all time for a presentation to his mistress Madame du Barry. The necklace totaling 2,840 carats of diamonds was assembled but not delivered because of the king's death. It was dismantled in 1785 in the most sensational scam case of the Ancien Régime : l'Affaire du collier de la Reine.

The new Boehmer et Bassenge company targets an extreme quality limited to a few items per year. They chose Christie's for selling two of their earliest masterpieces. The auction takes place in Geneva on November 15, 2016.

Miroir de l'Amour is a pair of earrings 7 cm long. Each element consists of a pear-shaped diamond of over 50 carats, namely 52.55 and 50.47 carats, topped with a rich cluster of smaller diamonds. It was sold for CHF 17.6M, lot 188.

Le Jardin d'Isabelle is a necklace, at lot 187. This jewel consists of two lines centered on diamonds respectively weighing 31.38 carats and 12.11 carats. It was sold for CHF 8M.

​In 2017 the top entry of this jeweller at auction was La Légende, centered on a heart shaped diamond D, IIa, Flawless weighing 92.15 carats. It was sold for CHF 14.8M on May 17, 2017 by Christie's
, lot 228.
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