White Diamond
Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
See also : Cartier
Chronology : 2010-2019 2011 2016
See also : Cartier
Chronology : 2010-2019 2011 2016
Intro
The chemically pure diamonds are referred as Type IIa and their absence of color is identified as D-color. The other criteria are their weight in carats, their internal and external clarity and the quality of cutting, polishing and symmetry. When the other characteristics are similar, larger diamonds reach a higher price per carat.
A 100 carat diamond weighs about 20 grams. A round brilliant cut 100 carat diamond is about 40 to 45 mm across and 25 mm deep.
The perfect clarity is the Flawless, with no visible inclusion at x60 magnification. Internally Flawless represents the same inner clarity but admits some slight blemish on the surface.
A 100 carat diamond weighs about 20 grams. A round brilliant cut 100 carat diamond is about 40 to 45 mm across and 25 mm deep.
The perfect clarity is the Flawless, with no visible inclusion at x60 magnification. Internally Flawless represents the same inner clarity but admits some slight blemish on the surface.
Special Report
Golconda Mines
The Golconda mines refer to a legendary group of historic diamond mines in southern India, primarily in the region historically known as the Kingdom of Golconda (now parts of modern-day Telangana and Andhra Pradesh states). They are famous for producing some of the world's most exceptional and historically significant diamonds during the 16th–18th centuries, when India was the sole major source of diamonds globally until discoveries in Brazil (c. 1725) and later Africa.
Location and Geography
Location and Geography
- The mines were not directly under Golconda Fort (about 11 km west of modern Hyderabad), but scattered across a vast area in the Krishna-Godavari river delta and along tributaries of the Krishna River (primarily alluvial/placer deposits, where diamonds were washed downstream from primary kimberlite sources).
- Key mine: Kollur Mine (also spelled Gani, Coulour, or Paritala), southeast of Golconda near the Krishna River, was the most productive and famous.
- The mining region spanned roughly 210 miles long by 95 miles wide, with up to 23 active mines at peak (out of India's ~38 total at the time).
- Recent geological studies (e.g., 2024 research from Savitribai Phule Pune University) suggest the diamonds originated from kimberlite fields like Wajrakarur (about 300 km upstream), transported by ancient rivers to alluvial sites.
- Diamonds were likely mined in southern India from ancient times, but verifiable large-scale production in the Golconda area began around the mid-16th century (discovery at Kollur ~1550s, per accounts like those of Jean-Baptiste Tavernier).
- Peak under the Qutb Shahi dynasty (Golconda Sultanate, 16th–17th centuries) and later the Nizams of Hyderabad.
- At height, mines employed massive workforces: Kollur alone had up to 60,000 workers; one account notes 30,000 at a single site.
- Methods: Mostly open-pit or shallow tunneling (up to ~24 ft deep) until hitting groundwater; gravel was washed and sorted manually.
- Diamonds were transported to Golconda Fort for cutting, polishing, trading, and export (Golconda became a major lapidary and trading center).
- Production declined in the 18th–19th centuries due to depletion; mines exhausted by ~1830, with total output estimated at ~10 million carats.
- Mining officially ceased in the region; some sites submerged by later dams (e.g., Pulichintala Project).
- Predominantly Type IIa (ultra-pure, nitrogen-free; ~1–2% of all diamonds), leading to exceptional transparency, "water" (clarity), and colorless appearance (often described as "whiter than white" or with soft luminescence).
- High clarity, large sizes, and superior optical properties; alluvial tumbling gave them rounded rough shapes.
- Famous examples: Koh-i-Noor, Hope Diamond (blue), Regent, Orlov, Daria-i-Noor (pink), Nassak, Idol's Eye, Dresden Green, Great Mogul (lost), Archduke Joseph, and others.
- The original mines are long depleted and inactive; no commercial diamond mining occurs in the historic Golconda sites.
- Some potential new sites were identified in 2015 by Osmania University and the Geological Survey of India, but no active mining has started as of recent reports.
- Authentic Golconda-origin diamonds are extremely rare antiques (at least 200 years old), commanding premium prices at auctions due to provenance, purity, and legend.
- "Golconda" remains a benchmark term in gemology for top-quality, Type IIa colorless diamonds.
masterpiece
1698 Le Régent
Louvre
The image is shared by Wikimedia.
The Le Régent diamond (also known as the Regent Diamond) is one of the most famous and beautiful diamonds in the world, renowned for its exceptional purity, size, and flawless "first water" color (perfectly colorless with a slight blue tint). It weighs 140.64 carats (approximately 28.13 grams) in its final cut form, a cushion-shaped brilliant cut that maximizes its brilliance through precise faceting.It is currently owned by the French state and displayed in the Galerie d'Apollon at the Louvre Museum in Paris (Denon wing, room often noted for the Crown Jewels collection), where it has been since 1887.
Here is its full chronological history, drawn from official Louvre records, historical accounts, and reliable sources:
Discovery and Early Legend (1698)
The diamond was mined in 1698 from the Kollur Mine (near Golconda, in present-day Andhra Pradesh, India—one of the legendary Golconda mines famous for exceptional gems). In its rough state, it weighed around 410–426 carats.
A popular legend claims it was found by an enslaved worker who hid it in a wound on his leg to smuggle it out. He entrusted it to an English sea captain for safe passage in exchange for half the profits, but the captain murdered him and sold the stone to an Indian merchant named Jamchand (or Jamchund). While dramatic, this tale is unverified and common to many historic diamonds.
Acquisition by Thomas Pitt (1701–1702)
In 1701, Thomas Pitt, the British Governor of Fort St. George (Madras), acquired the rough stone from Jamchand after tough negotiations for about £20,400 (a massive sum, equivalent to millions today). Rumors of shady dealings persisted, but Pitt sent it to London hidden in his son's shoe for security. It became temporarily known as the "Pitt Diamond."
Cutting in London (1704–1706)
Shipped to England, the diamond was cut over two years by a jeweler named Harris using the advanced brilliant-cut technique (recently perfected, possibly originating in Venice). This reduced its weight significantly but created a stunning gem with superior fire and sparkle. Several smaller secondary stones were produced and sold (some to Tsar Peter the Great).
Sale to France and Naming (1717)
After failed attempts to sell it to European royals (including Louis XIV, who refused due to the exorbitant price), it was purchased on June 6, 1717, by Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (Regent of France during Louis XV's minority) for £135,000 (equivalent to tens of millions today). The purchase was encouraged by memoirist Saint-Simon amid the financial bubble of John Law's system. Renamed "Le Régent" in honor of the buyer, it quickly tripled in value and became a symbol of French prestige.
French Monarchy (1717–1792)
Revolutionary and Napoleonic Period (1797–1815)
It was reset on crowns for Louis XVIII, Charles X, and Napoleon III, and in the Greek diadem of Empress Eugénie (Second Empire).It survived further upheavals, including the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871), when it was hidden in a fortress.
Modern Era and Louvre Display (1887–Present)
In 1887, the French state auctioned most Crown Jewels to reduce debt, but retained the Régent (along with the Sancy and Hortensia) for its historical importance. It has been exhibited at the Louvre since then.
During World War II, it was secretly moved from the Louvre (to Château de Chambord) to protect it from Nazi looting, then returned postwar.
Today, it remains a national treasure in the Galerie d'Apollon (sometimes temporarily closed for renovations), valued at tens of millions of dollars (estimates around $60 million in recent years). It is often called one of the purest and most beautiful diamonds known.
Its survival through murder legends, theft, revolution, empire, and wars makes it a remarkable symbol of enduring beauty and history.
The Le Régent diamond (also known as the Regent Diamond) is one of the most famous and beautiful diamonds in the world, renowned for its exceptional purity, size, and flawless "first water" color (perfectly colorless with a slight blue tint). It weighs 140.64 carats (approximately 28.13 grams) in its final cut form, a cushion-shaped brilliant cut that maximizes its brilliance through precise faceting.It is currently owned by the French state and displayed in the Galerie d'Apollon at the Louvre Museum in Paris (Denon wing, room often noted for the Crown Jewels collection), where it has been since 1887.
Here is its full chronological history, drawn from official Louvre records, historical accounts, and reliable sources:
Discovery and Early Legend (1698)
The diamond was mined in 1698 from the Kollur Mine (near Golconda, in present-day Andhra Pradesh, India—one of the legendary Golconda mines famous for exceptional gems). In its rough state, it weighed around 410–426 carats.
A popular legend claims it was found by an enslaved worker who hid it in a wound on his leg to smuggle it out. He entrusted it to an English sea captain for safe passage in exchange for half the profits, but the captain murdered him and sold the stone to an Indian merchant named Jamchand (or Jamchund). While dramatic, this tale is unverified and common to many historic diamonds.
Acquisition by Thomas Pitt (1701–1702)
In 1701, Thomas Pitt, the British Governor of Fort St. George (Madras), acquired the rough stone from Jamchand after tough negotiations for about £20,400 (a massive sum, equivalent to millions today). Rumors of shady dealings persisted, but Pitt sent it to London hidden in his son's shoe for security. It became temporarily known as the "Pitt Diamond."
Cutting in London (1704–1706)
Shipped to England, the diamond was cut over two years by a jeweler named Harris using the advanced brilliant-cut technique (recently perfected, possibly originating in Venice). This reduced its weight significantly but created a stunning gem with superior fire and sparkle. Several smaller secondary stones were produced and sold (some to Tsar Peter the Great).
Sale to France and Naming (1717)
After failed attempts to sell it to European royals (including Louis XIV, who refused due to the exorbitant price), it was purchased on June 6, 1717, by Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (Regent of France during Louis XV's minority) for £135,000 (equivalent to tens of millions today). The purchase was encouraged by memoirist Saint-Simon amid the financial bubble of John Law's system. Renamed "Le Régent" in honor of the buyer, it quickly tripled in value and became a symbol of French prestige.
French Monarchy (1717–1792)
- First worn by Louis XV in 1721 (Turkish embassy reception), set temporarily in his 1722 coronation crown, and later worn on his hat after his 1725 marriage to Marie Leszczyńska.
- For Louis XVI's 1775 coronation, it was reset in a new crown (central position) and worn on his hat. It adorned royal regalia as one of the Crown Jewels, symbolizing monarchy.
Revolutionary and Napoleonic Period (1797–1815)
- Pawned as collateral (1797–1801) to finance wars under the Directory and Consulate (first to a Berlin banker, then a Dutch one).
- Redeemed definitively by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1801.
- Mounted on the hilt of his sword (designed by goldsmiths Odiot, Boutet, and Nitot) as First Consul, and later on his imperial sword in 1812.
- After Napoleon's fall, it was taken to Austria by his wife Marie Louise but returned to France.
It was reset on crowns for Louis XVIII, Charles X, and Napoleon III, and in the Greek diadem of Empress Eugénie (Second Empire).It survived further upheavals, including the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871), when it was hidden in a fortress.
Modern Era and Louvre Display (1887–Present)
In 1887, the French state auctioned most Crown Jewels to reduce debt, but retained the Régent (along with the Sancy and Hortensia) for its historical importance. It has been exhibited at the Louvre since then.
During World War II, it was secretly moved from the Louvre (to Château de Chambord) to protect it from Nazi looting, then returned postwar.
Today, it remains a national treasure in the Galerie d'Apollon (sometimes temporarily closed for renovations), valued at tens of millions of dollars (estimates around $60 million in recent years). It is often called one of the purest and most beautiful diamonds known.
Its survival through murder legends, theft, revolution, empire, and wars makes it a remarkable symbol of enduring beauty and history.
masterpiece
Koh-i Nor
London Tower
Gemmologists recognize through some exceptional qualities when a ruby comes from Mogok, a sapphire from Kashmir or a diamond from Golconda.
Type IIa diamonds are the brightest of all categories when they are pure. The top standardized grade for colorless gems is the D color. However the best Golconda diamonds also have an absolute transparency that exceeds the D grade. It is extremely rare for a diamond from another source to display such a purity and clarity.
For two millennia until the beginning of the 18th century, India was the only diamond producing country. Aware of this exceptional opportunity, local princes have long kept the best for their exclusive use.
Golconda was a network of mines. The best, the Kollur mine, produced among others the Koh-i-Noor, the Regent, the Orlov, which contributed to the prestige of Great Britain, France and Russia. Deserted after the depletion of the vein, Kollur was in ruins when its site was identified by a geologist in the 1880s.
Tastes have changed and technologies have improved. An ancient cutting is very often recognizable as such. A small grinding is encouraged if it helps a Potentially Flawless to reach the ultimate grade of clarity, Internally Flawless.
The image of the Koh-i Noor in the front cross of Queen Mary's crown is shared by Wikimedia.
The Koh-i-Noor (Persian for "Mountain of Light") is one of the world's most famous and controversial diamonds. It weighs 105.6 carats (21.12 grams) in its current form and is an oval brilliant cut with exceptional clarity and brilliance.
Key Features
The early history is legendary and debated, with "meagre and imperfect" records before the 18th century. Some myths link it to ancient Hindu texts (e.g., as the Syamantaka gem owned by Lord Krishna) or claims of origins as far back as 3200 BCE, but verifiable evidence starts later.
The diamond symbolizes colonial conquest and has sparked ongoing disputes. India, Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan have claimed it, arguing it was looted or coercively taken. The British maintain it was legally acquired under the 1849 treaty and remains Crown property.
A persistent legend claims the Koh-i-Noor is cursed, bringing misfortune or death to male owners (e.g., Nader Shah assassinated, various Mughal/Afghan/Sikh rulers met violent ends). It has only been worn by women in British royal use, avoiding the curse.As of February 2026, it remains in the British Crown Jewels, with no reported changes in ownership or major new developments in repatriation efforts. The controversy persists amid broader discussions on colonial-era artifacts.
Type IIa diamonds are the brightest of all categories when they are pure. The top standardized grade for colorless gems is the D color. However the best Golconda diamonds also have an absolute transparency that exceeds the D grade. It is extremely rare for a diamond from another source to display such a purity and clarity.
For two millennia until the beginning of the 18th century, India was the only diamond producing country. Aware of this exceptional opportunity, local princes have long kept the best for their exclusive use.
Golconda was a network of mines. The best, the Kollur mine, produced among others the Koh-i-Noor, the Regent, the Orlov, which contributed to the prestige of Great Britain, France and Russia. Deserted after the depletion of the vein, Kollur was in ruins when its site was identified by a geologist in the 1880s.
Tastes have changed and technologies have improved. An ancient cutting is very often recognizable as such. A small grinding is encouraged if it helps a Potentially Flawless to reach the ultimate grade of clarity, Internally Flawless.
The image of the Koh-i Noor in the front cross of Queen Mary's crown is shared by Wikimedia.
The Koh-i-Noor (Persian for "Mountain of Light") is one of the world's most famous and controversial diamonds. It weighs 105.6 carats (21.12 grams) in its current form and is an oval brilliant cut with exceptional clarity and brilliance.
Key Features
- Weight: 105.6 carats (reduced from an original ~186 old carats / ~191 metric carats due to a 1852 recut in London by royal jeweler Garrard to improve fire, symmetry, and European-style brilliance; the recut removed flaws but diminished size more than planned).
- Color and Clarity: Colorless to near-colorless with high transparency; historically noted for its exceptional "water" (purity).
- Origin: Mined from the Kollur Mine (Golconda region, present-day Andhra Pradesh, India), a legendary source of many historic diamonds like the Daria-i-Noor.
- Type: Likely Type IIa (ultra-pure, like many Golconda diamonds, with minimal impurities).
- Current Setting: Mounted in the front cross of the Crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (made in 1937), part of the British Crown Jewels displayed at the Tower of London. It has been worn by British queens consort (e.g., Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother) but not kings, partly due to legends of a curse affecting male wearers.
The early history is legendary and debated, with "meagre and imperfect" records before the 18th century. Some myths link it to ancient Hindu texts (e.g., as the Syamantaka gem owned by Lord Krishna) or claims of origins as far back as 3200 BCE, but verifiable evidence starts later.
- ~1300s (Legendary/Early Records): Possibly looted by Alauddin Khalji (Delhi Sultanate) from the Kakatiya dynasty in southern India around 1304–1310 during southern campaigns. It may have passed through Delhi Sultanate rulers (Khiljis, Tughlaqs, Sayyids, Lodis).
- 1526: Likely acquired by Babur (founder of the Mughal Empire) after the Battle of Panipat; mentioned in the Baburnama as a famous large diamond (~187 old carats, matching the Koh-i-Noor's pre-recut size). It stayed with Mughal emperors (e.g., possibly set in Shah Jahan's Peacock Throne).
- 1739: Looted by Persian ruler Nader Shah during his sack of Delhi. He named it "Koh-i-Noor" upon seeing its brilliance ("Mountain of Light"). After Nader's assassination in 1747, it passed to his grandson and then to Ahmad Shah Durrani (founder of the Durrani/Afghan Empire).
- Early 1800s: Held by Afghan rulers (Durranis), including Shah Shuja Durrani.
- 1813: Shah Shuja, in exile and under duress, surrendered it to Maharaja Ranjit Singh (Sikh Empire ruler in Punjab/Lahore). Ranjit Singh wore it prominently as a symbol of power.
- 1849: After the Second Anglo-Sikh War and British annexation of Punjab, the East India Company forced the young Maharaja Duleep Singh (aged 10–11) to surrender it under the Treaty of Lahore. It was presented to Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850, at Buckingham Palace (often described as coerced rather than a voluntary gift).
- 1852: Recut in London under Prince Albert's supervision to enhance sparkle, reducing it to 105.6 carats.
- Later 19th–20th Century: Worn by Queen Victoria (as a brooch), then set in crowns for queens consort: Queen Alexandra (1902), Queen Mary (1911), and Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (1937). Displayed in the Tower of London since.
The diamond symbolizes colonial conquest and has sparked ongoing disputes. India, Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan have claimed it, arguing it was looted or coercively taken. The British maintain it was legally acquired under the 1849 treaty and remains Crown property.
A persistent legend claims the Koh-i-Noor is cursed, bringing misfortune or death to male owners (e.g., Nader Shah assassinated, various Mughal/Afghan/Sikh rulers met violent ends). It has only been worn by women in British royal use, avoiding the curse.As of February 2026, it remains in the British Crown Jewels, with no reported changes in ownership or major new developments in repatriation efforts. The controversy persists amid broader discussions on colonial-era artifacts.
natural wonder
1905 the Cullinan
British Royal collection
The Cullinan Diamond is the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered. Here's a comprehensive history based on established records, from its geological origins to its current status and ongoing controversies.
Discovery (1905)
The transfer is often described in official British and royal sources as a voluntary gift symbolizing post-war reconciliation. However, critics view it as exploitative under colonial rule:
Discovery (1905)
- On January 26, 1905, Frederick Wells, the surface manager at the Premier Mine (near present-day Cullinan, Gauteng, South Africa), spotted a massive crystal about 18 feet (5.5 meters) below the surface.
- The rough stone weighed 3,106.75 carats (approximately 621 grams or 1.37 pounds) and measured roughly 10.1 × 6.35 × 5.9 cm.
- It was named after Sir Thomas Cullinan, the mine's owner and a British-born South African prospector who had founded the Premier Mine in 1902.
- At the time, the area was part of the Transvaal Colony, under British control following the Second Anglo-Boer War (1899–1902), during which the British Empire defeated the Boer republics.
- The diamond was owned by the Premier Diamond Mining Company.
- It attracted global attention but remained unsold for over two years despite being displayed publicly.
- In 1907, the Transvaal Colony government (a self-governing British colony led by Prime Minister Louis Botha, a former Boer general) purchased it from the mining company for £150,000 (equivalent to roughly £19–20 million in today's terms, adjusted for inflation).
- Some accounts note that mining taxes partially offset the cost to the government.
- The Transvaal government presented the diamond to King Edward VII on his 66th birthday (November 9, 1907) as a symbolic "gift" representing loyalty and goodwill from the people of the Transvaal after the Anglo-Boer War.
- The presentation was framed as a gesture of reconciliation and attachment to the British Crown, helping pave the way for the Union of South Africa in 1910.
- King Edward VII reportedly accepted it reluctantly at first but did so on advice (including from figures like Winston Churchill, then Colonial Under-Secretary).
- The stone was shipped to London (famously smuggled in a plain box for security) and entrusted to the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam for cutting.
- Joseph Asscher famously cleaved the stone in two in February 1908, then cut and polished it into nine major diamonds (Cullinan I through IX) and numerous smaller fragments.
- The largest pieces:
- Cullinan I ("Great Star of Africa"): 530.4 carats, pear-shaped, the largest clear cut diamond in the world.
- Cullinan II ("Second Star of Africa"): 317.4 carats, cushion-shaped.
- Other major stones (III–IX) range from 94.4 to 4.39 carats.
- Cullinan I was mounted in the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross.
- Cullinan II was set in the Imperial State Crown.
- Smaller stones were incorporated into brooches, rings, and other items; some were gifted privately (e.g., Cullinan VI and VIII to Queen Alexandra).
- In 1910, the South African government acquired several remaining Cullinan diamonds and presented them to Queen Mary (wife of George V) to mark the Union of South Africa's formation.
- These passed down through the royal family.
- In 1953, Queen Mary bequeathed her Cullinan pieces to her granddaughter, Queen Elizabeth II.
- Today, the major stones (Cullinan I and II) remain in the British Crown Jewels, displayed at the Tower of London and used in coronations (e.g., Charles III in 2023).
- The collection is held by the monarch "in right of the Crown" (currently King Charles III).
The transfer is often described in official British and royal sources as a voluntary gift symbolizing post-war reconciliation. However, critics view it as exploitative under colonial rule:
- South Africa was not fully independent in 1907; the Transvaal was a British colony.
- The "gift" occurred amid ongoing colonial resource extraction from Africa.
- Activists and some South African politicians argue it represents stolen heritage, akin to other colonial-era artifacts.
- Calls for return intensified around Queen Elizabeth II's death (2022) and King Charles III's coronation (2023), with petitions (e.g., one gathering ~8,000 signatures in 2023) demanding repatriation as a symbol of pride and decolonization.
- Political parties like the EFF and figures like activist Mothusi Kamanga have pushed the issue, framing it within broader global restitution debates.
- No formal South African government demand has been made, and experts note practical barriers (legal ownership, precedent, and lack of official claims) make return unlikely without high-level diplomatic action.
Cullinan Diamond cutting process
The cutting process of the Cullinan Diamond (the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, at 3,106.75 carats) was a meticulous, high-stakes operation carried out in 1908 by Joseph Asscher of the Joseph Asscher & Co. (now Royal Asscher Diamond Company) in Amsterdam. Due to the stone's enormous size, internal flaws (inclusions), and the need to maximize value and brilliance while removing imperfections, it was decided to divide it rather than polish it as a single massive gem.
Preparation Phase (Late 1907 – Early 1908)
The cutting process of the Cullinan Diamond (the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, at 3,106.75 carats) was a meticulous, high-stakes operation carried out in 1908 by Joseph Asscher of the Joseph Asscher & Co. (now Royal Asscher Diamond Company) in Amsterdam. Due to the stone's enormous size, internal flaws (inclusions), and the need to maximize value and brilliance while removing imperfections, it was decided to divide it rather than polish it as a single massive gem.
Preparation Phase (Late 1907 – Early 1908)
- The rough diamond arrived in Amsterdam in January 1908 after being collected from London.
- Joseph Asscher and his team spent weeks to months (accounts vary from several weeks to about six months) carefully studying the stone.
- They examined it from every angle, took photographs in multiple orientations, made casts (in clay and glass) for experimental testing, and identified two significant internal flaws.
- The goal was to cleave along natural cleavage planes (diamond's octahedral planes where it can split cleanly) to eliminate flaws and yield the largest possible flawless pieces.
- Special tools were prepared or modified, including stronger steel knives and secure equipment, because nothing of this scale had been handled before.
- February 10, 1908: The first cleaving attempt occurred in front of press and spectators at the Asscher factory.
- A narrow groove (incision/slit) about 0.5 inches (13 mm) deep was sawn into the stone over four days using a sawing machine.
- Joseph Asscher inserted a special steel cleavage knife into the groove and struck it with a heavy steel rod/hammer.
- On the first strike, the knife broke, but the diamond remained intact (a famous dramatic moment often recounted).
- A second, stronger knife was fitted into the same groove.
- On the successful strike (some sources say shortly after or on a follow-up attempt days later), the diamond split cleanly along one of its natural cleavage planes into two large pieces:
- One weighing approximately 1,977–2,029 carats.
- The other around 1,068–1,069 carats.
- (Note: Some early plans considered cleaving into three pieces to better isolate flaws, but it was ultimately done in two major splits first, with further divisions later.)
- After the initial split, the pieces were re-examined.
- Additional cleaving occurred to remove remaining flaws and optimize yield, ultimately producing nine major stones (Cullinan I through IX) and about 96 smaller fragments.
- The process involved careful planning to align facets with the crystal structure.
- Polishing began shortly after cleaving (around March 2, 1908).
- A secure "strong room" was set up in the factory basement for the work, with constant supervision.
- Master polisher Henry Koe (one of Asscher's most experienced workers) personally oversaw much of it, reportedly living on-site for months.
- Three people worked 14 hours per day for about eight months total (from February to roughly November 1908).
- Each facet was meticulously ground and polished using diamond grit abrasives on specialized scaifes (spinning wheels).
- Special large-scale tools were needed due to the stones' size.
- The final major stones included:
- Cullinan I (Great Star of Africa): 530.4 carats, pear-shaped, 74 facets.
- Cullinan II (Second Star of Africa): 317.4 carats, cushion-shaped.
- Smaller ones (III–IX) ranging down to about 4 carats, in various cuts (brilliant, pendeloque, etc.).
- The yield was exceptionally high-quality Type IIa colorless diamonds, with minimal weight loss relative to the risks involved.
The Cullinan Diamond is the largest gem-quality diamond ever discovered. Found in 1905, the original 3,100 carats were cut to make jewels for the British Crown Jewels and the British Royal family’s collection. pic.twitter.com/d52CwB8J5i
— Steve Keating (@LeadToday) October 26, 2019
the Archduke Joseph
2012 SOLD CHF 20.4M by Christie's
In Geneva in November 1993, Christie's sold for CHF 9.7M the Archduke Joseph diamond. It was a fabulous price for the time even after considering that the Swiss currency was at one third below the U.S. dollar.
This is one of the largest perfect diamonds of Golconda type : D color and internally flawless. Being now at 76.02 carats, it achieves a weight equal to 72% of the Koh-i-Noor, the 105.602 carat diamond that adorns the British Royal crown.
Its antique cut is cushion-like, although for such big diamonds it is not quite possible to fully meet a standardized shape classification. Like many old diamonds, it has been reworked in the last century to improve its clarity and symmetry.
Previously owned by the Habsburgs, it bears the name of a prince who was briefly regent of Hungary at the time of the fall of his dynasty.
It was sold for CHF 20.4M from a lower estimate of US $ 15M on November 13, 2012, again by Christie's. It is US $ 280K per carat, the highest recorded price per carat at auction at that time for a colorless diamond. Please watch the Gallery Talk video prepared by Christie's.
The Archduke Joseph Diamond is one of the most renowned colorless diamonds in the world, celebrated for its exceptional quality, historic Golconda origin, and royal provenance tied to the Habsburg dynasty.
Key Features
The diamond's early history is obscure, with no precise record of its discovery or initial journey to Europe. It is believed to have been mined in the Golconda region (near Hyderabad, India) during the 16th or 17th century, when those mines were the world's primary diamond source. It likely reached Europe via trade routes involving merchants like Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, colonial outposts, or conquests/looting.
It became a private family heirloom of the Habsburg-Lorraine dynasty (rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Holy Roman Empire), possibly entering their possession through connections like the Duchy of Lorraine or other European trade centers. It was not part of official crown jewels but passed down through generations, including Holy Roman Emperor Francis I Stephen (husband of Maria Theresa), Joseph II, Leopold II, and later descendants such as Archduke Joseph Anton Johann (Palatine of Hungary), Archduke Joseph Karl, and finally Archduke Joseph August Viktor Klemens Maria (1872–1962), a field marshal in the Austro-Hungarian Army, brief regent of Hungary post-WWI, and the diamond's namesake.
This is one of the largest perfect diamonds of Golconda type : D color and internally flawless. Being now at 76.02 carats, it achieves a weight equal to 72% of the Koh-i-Noor, the 105.602 carat diamond that adorns the British Royal crown.
Its antique cut is cushion-like, although for such big diamonds it is not quite possible to fully meet a standardized shape classification. Like many old diamonds, it has been reworked in the last century to improve its clarity and symmetry.
Previously owned by the Habsburgs, it bears the name of a prince who was briefly regent of Hungary at the time of the fall of his dynasty.
It was sold for CHF 20.4M from a lower estimate of US $ 15M on November 13, 2012, again by Christie's. It is US $ 280K per carat, the highest recorded price per carat at auction at that time for a colorless diamond. Please watch the Gallery Talk video prepared by Christie's.
The Archduke Joseph Diamond is one of the most renowned colorless diamonds in the world, celebrated for its exceptional quality, historic Golconda origin, and royal provenance tied to the Habsburg dynasty.
Key Features
- Weight: Approximately 76.02 carats (as sold in 2012; originally around 78.54 carats before a slight recut in the late 1990s to improve clarity and symmetry).
- Shape: Antique cushion-shaped brilliant (rectangular cushion cut, with features of historic Indian-style cutting).
- Color: D (colorless, the highest grade on the GIA scale; perfectly colorless with limpid transparency and soft luminescence).
- Clarity: Internally Flawless (IF on GIA scale; the highest clarity after Flawless, with no internal inclusions visible under 10x magnification; pre-recut it was noted as potentially SI1 but upgraded post-recut).
- Type: Type IIa (extremely pure chemically, representing only 1-2% of all diamonds; known for exceptional transparency and lack of impurities like nitrogen or boron; confirmed by Gübelin Gem Lab).
- Origin: Historic Golconda mines, India (the legendary source of many famous diamonds like the Koh-i-Noor and Hope Diamond; Golconda diamonds are prized for their superior "water" or purity).
- Other Distinctions: It is the largest D-color, Internally Flawless diamond from the Golconda region ever graded by the GIA (per their 2012 letter). It ranks among the largest "perfect" (high-clarity, colorless) diamonds globally and is often described as having qualities evoking the finest historic Golconda gems.
The diamond's early history is obscure, with no precise record of its discovery or initial journey to Europe. It is believed to have been mined in the Golconda region (near Hyderabad, India) during the 16th or 17th century, when those mines were the world's primary diamond source. It likely reached Europe via trade routes involving merchants like Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, colonial outposts, or conquests/looting.
It became a private family heirloom of the Habsburg-Lorraine dynasty (rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Holy Roman Empire), possibly entering their possession through connections like the Duchy of Lorraine or other European trade centers. It was not part of official crown jewels but passed down through generations, including Holy Roman Emperor Francis I Stephen (husband of Maria Theresa), Joseph II, Leopold II, and later descendants such as Archduke Joseph Anton Johann (Palatine of Hungary), Archduke Joseph Karl, and finally Archduke Joseph August Viktor Klemens Maria (1872–1962), a field marshal in the Austro-Hungarian Army, brief regent of Hungary post-WWI, and the diamond's namesake.
- 1933: First documented appearance — deposited in the vault of the Hungarian General Credit Bank on June 1, 1933, in the presence of a state official (weight recorded as 78.54 carats).
- 1936: Sold by Archduke Joseph August's heirs (passed to his son Archduke Joseph Francis) to an anonymous buyer, likely a European banker, who stored it in a safe deposit box in France. It survived WWII undiscovered during German occupation.
- 1961: Appeared at a Sotheby's auction in London but was withdrawn (unsold, failed to meet reserve).
- 1993: Sold at Christie's Geneva for approximately $6.5 million (to an anonymous buyer).
- Late 1990s (1999): Acquired privately by Alfredo J. Molina of Molina Fine Jewelers (Arizona). It underwent a minor recut (losing about 2.5 carats) to enhance clarity from near-flawless to Internally Flawless and improve brilliance/symmetry.
- 2000s: Featured publicly, including worn as a pendant by actress Laura Harring at the 2002 Oscars and by Celine Dion in a 2002 TV special (in a custom necklace).
- November 13, 2012: Sold at Christie's Geneva in the "Magnificent Jewels & The Archduke Joseph Diamond" auction (lot highlighted as the centerpiece). It fetched $21,474,525 (including buyer's premium; hammer price around 18-20 million Swiss francs), exceeding the $15 million pre-sale estimate. This set a world auction record for price per carat for a colorless diamond (over $280,000/ct) and for a Golconda diamond at the time. The seller was Alfredo J. Molina; the buyer was anonymous.
Austral Africa
1
The Rock by Cartier
2022 SOLD for CHF 21.7M by Christie's
The Rock is the largest white diamond ever offered at auction. It was sold for CHF 21.7M by Christie's on May 11, 2022, lot 26.
Mined in South Africa more than 20 years earlier, it is brilliant cut in pear shape. Its characteristics are 228.31 carats, G color, VS1 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, 61.3 grams.
G is the highest grade in the near-colorless range. displaying a very faint yellow tint. If the cut is perfect, a G diamond looks identical to a colorless D when viewed with the naked eye.
The Rock has been mounted by Cartier with a round diamond and platinum pendant, for an overall size of 5.4 x 3.1 cm.
Christie's @ChristiesInc May 12, 2022
#AuctionUpdate 'The Rock,' the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for CHF21,681,000 / $21,894,082 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale on 11 May 2022.
Thoughts
The diamond known as "The Rock" is a remarkable 228.31-carat pear-shaped white diamond, recognized as the largest white (D-Z color range) diamond ever to appear at auction and the largest pear-shaped diamond ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
History of The Rock
The Rock's connection to Cartier stems from its mounting rather than its creation or long-term ownership by the house. The diamond was set as a dramatic pendant in a platinum and diamond necklace/pendant signed by Cartier. This custom setting transformed the monumental loose stone into wearable high jewelry, with the platinum mount complementing the pear shape and allowing it to hang elegantly.
Mined in South Africa more than 20 years earlier, it is brilliant cut in pear shape. Its characteristics are 228.31 carats, G color, VS1 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, 61.3 grams.
G is the highest grade in the near-colorless range. displaying a very faint yellow tint. If the cut is perfect, a G diamond looks identical to a colorless D when viewed with the naked eye.
The Rock has been mounted by Cartier with a round diamond and platinum pendant, for an overall size of 5.4 x 3.1 cm.
Christie's @ChristiesInc May 12, 2022
#AuctionUpdate 'The Rock,' the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for CHF21,681,000 / $21,894,082 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale on 11 May 2022.
Thoughts
- Christie's post highlights the record-breaking auction of "The Rock," a 228.31-carat pear-shaped white diamond that sold for $21.9 million on May 11, 2022, in Geneva, surpassing the previous largest white diamond at auction by over 90 carats.
- Graded G-color and VS1 clarity by GIA with excellent polish and symmetry, the stone—mounted in a Cartier platinum pendant—was the largest such pear shape in the D-Z color range ever certified by the institute.
- The sale price equated to roughly $96,000 per carat, lower than the prior record's $116,000 per carat, underscoring how rarity in top colors often drives higher premiums in ultra-large diamonds.
The diamond known as "The Rock" is a remarkable 228.31-carat pear-shaped white diamond, recognized as the largest white (D-Z color range) diamond ever to appear at auction and the largest pear-shaped diamond ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
History of The Rock
- Origin and Early Life: It was mined in South Africa more than 20 years before its 2022 auction (likely around 2000 or earlier). The rough stone was polished there into its final pear shape over an extended period, reflecting the exceptional skill required to preserve size, symmetry, and quality in such a massive gem.
- Grading and Certification: The GIA graded it as G-color (near-colorless) and VS1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry. A special GIA letter confirmed it as the largest pear-shaped diamond in the D-Z color range ever certified by the lab—highlighting its rarity, as ultra-large white diamonds in high color grades are extraordinarily uncommon.
- Pre-Auction Display: Before the sale, it toured major markets including Dubai, Taipei, and New York City to showcase it to potential buyers.
- Auction at Christie's: It led Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva on May 11, 2022, with a pre-sale estimate of $20–30 million. The stone sold for $21.9 million (approximately CHF 21.68 million), equating to about $96,000 per carat. This was within the estimate but at the lower end. The seller was an anonymous North American family of jewelry collectors. The buyer was also not publicly disclosed.
- Post-Auction: As of February 2026, no major subsequent public sales, exhibitions, or ownership changes have been widely reported for this specific stone. It remains a benchmark in diamond auction history for its sheer scale in the white/colorless category.
The Rock's connection to Cartier stems from its mounting rather than its creation or long-term ownership by the house. The diamond was set as a dramatic pendant in a platinum and diamond necklace/pendant signed by Cartier. This custom setting transformed the monumental loose stone into wearable high jewelry, with the platinum mount complementing the pear shape and allowing it to hang elegantly.
- Cartier's Role: Cartier crafted the pendant mounting for the previous owners (the North American collector family), demonstrating the maison's expertise in handling exceptional, oversized gems. Cartier has a storied legacy of setting historically significant or record-breaking diamonds (e.g., pieces for royalty, celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor's large pear-shaped stones, or iconic designs like the Panthère motif), but The Rock stands out due to the stone's auction-record size.
- Symbolic and Market Impact: The Cartier signature added prestige and desirability at auction, as it turned a raw (albeit polished) collector's gem into a finished piece of haute joaillerie. It underscored Cartier's position in the ultra-high-end market for mounting mega-diamonds—where craftsmanship elevates rarity into wearable art. While not one of Cartier's own "historic" house-owned stones (like some in their archives or high jewelry collections), its association reinforced the brand's reputation for bold, innovative settings of exceptional diamonds.
#AuctionUpdate 'The Rock,' the largest white diamond ever auctioned, sold for CHF21,681,000 / $21,894,082 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale on 11 May 2022. □ pic.twitter.com/39hRUU1E0u
— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) May 12, 2022
2
2016 necklace by De Grisogono
2017 SOLD for CHF 33.5M by Christie's
Since the depletion of Golconda, the finest pure diamonds of Type IIa are extracted in Austral Africa : South Africa, Lesotho, Botswana, Angola.
The arrival on the market of exceptional pieces of very recent extraction certainly demonstrates improvements in the techniques of prospecting, but also in the preparation of perfect diamonds.
On November 14, 2017, Christie's sold as lot 505 for CHF 33.5M a diamond type IIa, D color, Flawless clarity. Weighing 163.41 carats, it is the largest perfect white diamond ever offered at auction and one of the largest ever inspected by the GIA. This performance is not the result of chance but of the involvement of the best specialists in the world.
The steps are told in detail by Christie's in the featured post.
The rough stone is extracted in Angola in February 2016. Weighing 404 carats, it is promising while being far from the records. Its quality is confirmed in New York by spectrography. For several weeks a team of experts researches the defects of the crystal.
Its bean form is not directly usable. In June, the world's best diamond cleaver with more than 50 years of experience cuts the stone in two halves from the middle. The polishing in emerald cut lasts six months, facet after facet.
They must now design a piece of jewelry highlighting this unprecedented wonder. The diamond is brought in December 2016 to De Grisogono in Geneva, which designs an asymmetrical necklace of emeralds and diamonds in 44 cm length. The jewel entrusted to Christie's then travels around the world before returning to Geneva for its auction sale.
Grok thought
Quote
National Jeweler @NationalJeweler Oct 2, 2017
Later this fall @ChristiesInc will #auction off 163-carat #diamond set into a necklace by @deGRISOGONO #degrisogono http://ow.ly/Yuqz30fA5lk
Founded in 1993 by Fawaz Gruosi, de GRISOGONO quickly gained fame for its bold, glamorous designs, particularly pioneering the use of black diamonds in high jewelry (e.g., cutting the famous 312-carat Spirit of de GRISOGONO, the world's largest faceted black diamond at the time). The brand's signature style emphasized opulent volumes, rich colors (often emeralds for "good luck"), asymmetry, and intricate craftsmanship.
In 2016–2017, the house acquired a 404.20-carat rough diamond (named "4 de Fevereiro" after its discovery date in Angola's Lulo mine) and transformed it into a 163.41-carat emerald-cut D-color flawless Type IIA diamond—the largest of its kind ever graded by the GIA and offered at auction. Gruosi's team crafted 50 designs before selecting an asymmetric necklace with the diamond as the detachable centerpiece, accented by graduated emerald-cut diamonds on one side and cascading pear-shaped emeralds (nearly 6,000 stones total) on the other. It took 14 artisans over 1,700 hours to complete.
Auctioned at Christie's Geneva in November 2017, it sold for $33.7 million (CHF 33.5 million), setting a world record price per carat for a D-flawless diamond and propelling de GRISOGONO "into a class of their own," as stated by Christie's experts. This "mine-to-masterpiece" project marked the brand's 25th-anniversary milestone and its elevation to handling historic-scale gems.
While this remains de GRISOGONO's most iconic piece, the brand faced challenges later: ties to Angolan investors led to scandals (Luanda Leaks, 2020), bankruptcy in 2020, and acquisition by Dubai's Damac Group in 2022. The 2017 necklace endures as its greatest legacy in jewelry history.
The arrival on the market of exceptional pieces of very recent extraction certainly demonstrates improvements in the techniques of prospecting, but also in the preparation of perfect diamonds.
On November 14, 2017, Christie's sold as lot 505 for CHF 33.5M a diamond type IIa, D color, Flawless clarity. Weighing 163.41 carats, it is the largest perfect white diamond ever offered at auction and one of the largest ever inspected by the GIA. This performance is not the result of chance but of the involvement of the best specialists in the world.
The steps are told in detail by Christie's in the featured post.
The rough stone is extracted in Angola in February 2016. Weighing 404 carats, it is promising while being far from the records. Its quality is confirmed in New York by spectrography. For several weeks a team of experts researches the defects of the crystal.
Its bean form is not directly usable. In June, the world's best diamond cleaver with more than 50 years of experience cuts the stone in two halves from the middle. The polishing in emerald cut lasts six months, facet after facet.
They must now design a piece of jewelry highlighting this unprecedented wonder. The diamond is brought in December 2016 to De Grisogono in Geneva, which designs an asymmetrical necklace of emeralds and diamonds in 44 cm length. The jewel entrusted to Christie's then travels around the world before returning to Geneva for its auction sale.
Grok thought
Quote
National Jeweler @NationalJeweler Oct 2, 2017
Later this fall @ChristiesInc will #auction off 163-carat #diamond set into a necklace by @deGRISOGONO #degrisogono http://ow.ly/Yuqz30fA5lk
- This 2017 post from National Jeweler highlights an upcoming Christie's auction of a de GRISOGONO necklace featuring a 163.41-carat D-flawless emerald-cut diamond, the largest of its type and quality ever offered at auction.
- The piece, blending the colorless diamond with vibrant pear-shaped emeralds and baguette diamonds, sold for $33.7 million in Geneva, underscoring the premium on flawless, large-cut stones in high jewelry.
- Such auctions reflect the jewelry industry's fascination with record-breaking gems, where rarity drives value—D-flawless diamonds command up to 20% higher prices than near-flawless equivalents per GIA grading data.
Founded in 1993 by Fawaz Gruosi, de GRISOGONO quickly gained fame for its bold, glamorous designs, particularly pioneering the use of black diamonds in high jewelry (e.g., cutting the famous 312-carat Spirit of de GRISOGONO, the world's largest faceted black diamond at the time). The brand's signature style emphasized opulent volumes, rich colors (often emeralds for "good luck"), asymmetry, and intricate craftsmanship.
In 2016–2017, the house acquired a 404.20-carat rough diamond (named "4 de Fevereiro" after its discovery date in Angola's Lulo mine) and transformed it into a 163.41-carat emerald-cut D-color flawless Type IIA diamond—the largest of its kind ever graded by the GIA and offered at auction. Gruosi's team crafted 50 designs before selecting an asymmetric necklace with the diamond as the detachable centerpiece, accented by graduated emerald-cut diamonds on one side and cascading pear-shaped emeralds (nearly 6,000 stones total) on the other. It took 14 artisans over 1,700 hours to complete.
Auctioned at Christie's Geneva in November 2017, it sold for $33.7 million (CHF 33.5 million), setting a world record price per carat for a D-flawless diamond and propelling de GRISOGONO "into a class of their own," as stated by Christie's experts. This "mine-to-masterpiece" project marked the brand's 25th-anniversary milestone and its elevation to handling historic-scale gems.
While this remains de GRISOGONO's most iconic piece, the brand faced challenges later: ties to Angolan investors led to scandals (Luanda Leaks, 2020), bankruptcy in 2020, and acquisition by Dubai's Damac Group in 2022. The 2017 necklace endures as its greatest legacy in jewelry history.
3
2011 118 carats
2013 SOLD for HK$ 240M by Sotheby's
The diamond sold by Sotheby's on October 7, 2013 is D Type and Flawless, and weighs 118.28 carats. It fetched HK $ 240M.
It is oval cut from a 299 carat rough stone discovered in 2011 in a deep mine of southern Africa whose detailed location is not revealed. Its polishing and symmetry are certified excellent by the gemological laboratories.
It is oval cut from a 299 carat rough stone discovered in 2011 in a deep mine of southern Africa whose detailed location is not revealed. Its polishing and symmetry are certified excellent by the gemological laboratories.
4
2010s the Winston Legacy
2013 SOLD for CHF 26M by Christie's
Botswana's mines are operated jointly by the government and by De Beers, with all the precautions that you can imagine. Indeed the small town of Jwaneng was founded in 1982 as a closed community only accessible by permission of the government.
Because of this relatively recent operation, fabulous gems are still waiting to be discovered. The modern art of diamond will do the rest, as technological advances now enable to cut diamonds of perfect shape and symmetry.
Consider an example from the past. The Cullinan, extracted in Transvaal in 1905, was a gem of 3,106 carats. Nine major diamonds were cut from it, including the pear shaped Great Star of Africa achieved at 530.2 carats after eight months of preparation for adorning the British Royal sceptre.
On May 15, 2013, Christie's sold for CHF 26M a perfect diamond (type IIa, D color, flawless). It is pear shaped at 101.73 carats representing an excellent yield for that rough stone of 236 carats extracted in Jwaneng. Its polishing required 21 months of work. It was named the Winston Legacy after the sale.
The new wonder from Jwaneng was in its time the biggest perfect diamond ever presented at auction. Although having no other history than its discovery and preparation, its price per carat, US $ 270K, is consistent with the price recorded by Christie's in 2012 on the Archduke Joseph.
Because of this relatively recent operation, fabulous gems are still waiting to be discovered. The modern art of diamond will do the rest, as technological advances now enable to cut diamonds of perfect shape and symmetry.
Consider an example from the past. The Cullinan, extracted in Transvaal in 1905, was a gem of 3,106 carats. Nine major diamonds were cut from it, including the pear shaped Great Star of Africa achieved at 530.2 carats after eight months of preparation for adorning the British Royal sceptre.
On May 15, 2013, Christie's sold for CHF 26M a perfect diamond (type IIa, D color, flawless). It is pear shaped at 101.73 carats representing an excellent yield for that rough stone of 236 carats extracted in Jwaneng. Its polishing required 21 months of work. It was named the Winston Legacy after the sale.
The new wonder from Jwaneng was in its time the biggest perfect diamond ever presented at auction. Although having no other history than its discovery and preparation, its price per carat, US $ 270K, is consistent with the price recorded by Christie's in 2012 on the Archduke Joseph.
5
emerald cut
2015 SOLD for $ 22M by Sotheby's
The southern African ground is full of wonderful stones. The perfect white diamond for sale by Sotheby's on April 21, 2015 is another example of a recent extraction. It weighs 100.20 carats after being worked from a rough gem of 200 carats, which is an excellent weight ratio.
It was sold for $ 22M, lot 357.
From the mineralogical point of view, it is perfect : Type IIa, D color and internally flawless despite its large size.
Compared to other diamonds of same quality and comparable weight, it has the rare feature in its size class of being emerald cut, offering one of the best possible shine.
It was sold for $ 22M, lot 357.
From the mineralogical point of view, it is perfect : Type IIa, D color and internally flawless despite its large size.
Compared to other diamonds of same quality and comparable weight, it has the rare feature in its size class of being emerald cut, offering one of the best possible shine.
#BeMine This 100-carat perfect diamond in a classic Emerald-cut will lead our 21 April jewelry sale in NYC □□ pic.twitter.com/0iI4fzIHfo
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) February 13, 2015
6
2005 Chloe
2007 SOLD for CHF 18.2M, worth at that time US$ 16.2M, by Sotheby's
The most resplendent cut is the round brilliant. This shape is rarely practiced from large gems because the perfection is obtained at the expense of a loss of material. An oval with perfect facets can approach the quality of a round diamond. Some other elongated shapes such as pear or emerald also offer very satisfactory results.
A brilliant cut white diamond of D color and top purity was sold on November 13, 2007 by Sotheby's for CHF 18.2M worth at that time US $ 16.2M. It was named Chloe by the successful bidder after his daughter.
This brilliant cut diamond is weighing 84.37 carats. Its price per carat is US $ 190K. Its original owner bought it ca 2005 from the Angola state-run diamond company.
In 2018 Sotheby's Diamonds privately sold a round diamond weighing 102.34 carats, extracted from a 425 carat rough stone mined by De Beers in Botswana. The price of the transaction was not disclosed.
A brilliant cut white diamond of D color and top purity was sold on November 13, 2007 by Sotheby's for CHF 18.2M worth at that time US $ 16.2M. It was named Chloe by the successful bidder after his daughter.
This brilliant cut diamond is weighing 84.37 carats. Its price per carat is US $ 190K. Its original owner bought it ca 2005 from the Angola state-run diamond company.
In 2018 Sotheby's Diamonds privately sold a round diamond weighing 102.34 carats, extracted from a 425 carat rough stone mined by De Beers in Botswana. The price of the transaction was not disclosed.
Star of the Season
1995 SOLD for CHF 20M, worth at that time US$ 16.5M, by Sotheby's
A pear shape cut is an invitation to suspend a diamond to a necklace.
Star of the Season, pear-shaped, 100.10 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, was sold for CHF 20M, worth at that time US $ 16.5M, which is US$ 165K per carat, by Sotheby’s in May 1995. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.
The Juno, Type IIa D color Internally flawless pear shaped diamond weighing 101.41 carats, was sold for $ 13M by Sotheby's on June 16, 2022 which is $ 130K per carat, lot 488.
The flawless The Key, 101.34 carats, sold by Sotheby's on July 9, 2021 for HK $ 95M which is US $ 120K per carat, lot 1.
The Mouawad Splendour, modified pear-shape, 101.84 carats, D color, Internally Flawless was sold for CHF 16M by Sotheby’s in November 1990. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.
Star of the Season, pear-shaped, 100.10 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, was sold for CHF 20M, worth at that time US $ 16.5M, which is US$ 165K per carat, by Sotheby’s in May 1995. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.
The Juno, Type IIa D color Internally flawless pear shaped diamond weighing 101.41 carats, was sold for $ 13M by Sotheby's on June 16, 2022 which is $ 130K per carat, lot 488.
The flawless The Key, 101.34 carats, sold by Sotheby's on July 9, 2021 for HK $ 95M which is US $ 120K per carat, lot 1.
The Mouawad Splendour, modified pear-shape, 101.84 carats, D color, Internally Flawless was sold for CHF 16M by Sotheby’s in November 1990. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.
The Star of Happiness
1993 SOLD for CHF 18M, worth at that time US$ 12M, by Sotheby's
The Star of Happiness, rectangular-shape, 100.36 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, was sold for CHF 18M, worth at that time US $ 12M, by Sotheby’s in November 1993. It is illustrated by The Jewellery Editor.
2016 Miroir de l'Amour by Boehmer et Bassenge
2016 SOLD for CHF 17.6M by Christie's
Paris remains a capital of luxury. A new workshop has been created with a single specialty : assembling jewels composed of diamonds that are perfect by their white D-Type color, their flawless clarity and their symmetry.
Diamonds are forever and elegance too. These newcomers connect with the past by taking the name Boehmer et Bassenge.
This double name that had gone into the oblivion of history was that of the jewelers entrusted by Louis XV in 1772 to create the most stunning necklace of all time for a presentation to his mistress Madame du Barry. The necklace totaling 2,840 carats of diamonds was assembled but not delivered because of the king's death. It was dismantled in 1785 in the most sensational scam case of the Ancien Régime : l'Affaire du collier de la Reine.
The new Boehmer et Bassenge company targets an extreme quality limited to a few items per year. They chose Christie's for selling two of their earliest masterpieces. The auction takes place in Geneva on November 15, 2016.
Miroir de l'Amour is a pair of earrings 7 cm long. Each element consists of a pear-shaped diamond of over 50 carats, namely 52.55 and 50.47 carats, topped with a rich cluster of smaller diamonds. It was sold for CHF 17.6M, lot 188.
Le Jardin d'Isabelle is a necklace, at lot 187. This jewel consists of two lines centered on diamonds respectively weighing 31.38 carats and 12.11 carats. It was sold for CHF 8M.
In 2017 the top entry of this jeweller at auction was La Légende, centered on a heart shaped diamond D, IIa, Flawless weighing 92.15 carats. It was sold for CHF 14.8M on May 17, 2017 by Christie's, lot 228.
These auctions established Boehmer et Bassenge as a serious player in haute joaillerie, emphasizing unparalleled diamond quality and historical homage, while generating significant media attention and market confidence in the fledgling brand.
Boehmer et Bassenge is a modern Parisian Maison de Haute Joaillerie (launched around 2016) that revives the name of the historic 18th-century jewelers Charles Boehmer and Paul Bassenge. The original duo created the infamous diamond necklace central to the "Affair of the Diamond Necklace" scandal involving Marie Antoinette, which damaged the French monarchy's reputation before the Revolution.
The contemporary brand specializes in ultra-exclusive pieces using only exceptional D-color, Flawless (or Internally Flawless) diamonds of perfect symmetry and polish, producing just a few creations per year.
The two pieces you mention mark pivotal moments in the brand's short history, as they were among its earliest creations and launched publicly through Christie's auctions.
Miroir de l'Amour
This sensational pair of diamond earrings features two pear-shaped D-color Flawless diamonds weighing 52.55 and 50.47 carats (the largest such pair ever offered at auction), surrounded by additional pear- and marquise-cut diamonds (total weight ~123 carats).
It sold at Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on November 15, 2016 (lot 188) for approximately $17.6 million (including premium), below the $20–30 million estimate but still a strong result.
This sale (alongside another piece from the brand) represented the official debut of Boehmer et Bassenge as a new high jewelry house, with Christie's chosen to introduce their first collection.
La Légende
This cultured pearl sautoir necklace centers on a 92.15-carat heart-shaped D-color Flawless diamond (the largest heart-shaped D-Flawless diamond ever to appear at auction), flanked by smaller round diamonds.
It sold at Christie's Geneva on May 17, 2017 (lot 228) for just under $15 million, setting a new world auction record for a heart-shaped diamond.
It reinforced the brand's reputation for working with record-breaking stones shortly after its launch.
Diamonds are forever and elegance too. These newcomers connect with the past by taking the name Boehmer et Bassenge.
This double name that had gone into the oblivion of history was that of the jewelers entrusted by Louis XV in 1772 to create the most stunning necklace of all time for a presentation to his mistress Madame du Barry. The necklace totaling 2,840 carats of diamonds was assembled but not delivered because of the king's death. It was dismantled in 1785 in the most sensational scam case of the Ancien Régime : l'Affaire du collier de la Reine.
The new Boehmer et Bassenge company targets an extreme quality limited to a few items per year. They chose Christie's for selling two of their earliest masterpieces. The auction takes place in Geneva on November 15, 2016.
Miroir de l'Amour is a pair of earrings 7 cm long. Each element consists of a pear-shaped diamond of over 50 carats, namely 52.55 and 50.47 carats, topped with a rich cluster of smaller diamonds. It was sold for CHF 17.6M, lot 188.
Le Jardin d'Isabelle is a necklace, at lot 187. This jewel consists of two lines centered on diamonds respectively weighing 31.38 carats and 12.11 carats. It was sold for CHF 8M.
In 2017 the top entry of this jeweller at auction was La Légende, centered on a heart shaped diamond D, IIa, Flawless weighing 92.15 carats. It was sold for CHF 14.8M on May 17, 2017 by Christie's, lot 228.
These auctions established Boehmer et Bassenge as a serious player in haute joaillerie, emphasizing unparalleled diamond quality and historical homage, while generating significant media attention and market confidence in the fledgling brand.
Boehmer et Bassenge is a modern Parisian Maison de Haute Joaillerie (launched around 2016) that revives the name of the historic 18th-century jewelers Charles Boehmer and Paul Bassenge. The original duo created the infamous diamond necklace central to the "Affair of the Diamond Necklace" scandal involving Marie Antoinette, which damaged the French monarchy's reputation before the Revolution.
The contemporary brand specializes in ultra-exclusive pieces using only exceptional D-color, Flawless (or Internally Flawless) diamonds of perfect symmetry and polish, producing just a few creations per year.
The two pieces you mention mark pivotal moments in the brand's short history, as they were among its earliest creations and launched publicly through Christie's auctions.
Miroir de l'Amour
This sensational pair of diamond earrings features two pear-shaped D-color Flawless diamonds weighing 52.55 and 50.47 carats (the largest such pair ever offered at auction), surrounded by additional pear- and marquise-cut diamonds (total weight ~123 carats).
It sold at Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on November 15, 2016 (lot 188) for approximately $17.6 million (including premium), below the $20–30 million estimate but still a strong result.
This sale (alongside another piece from the brand) represented the official debut of Boehmer et Bassenge as a new high jewelry house, with Christie's chosen to introduce their first collection.
La Légende
This cultured pearl sautoir necklace centers on a 92.15-carat heart-shaped D-color Flawless diamond (the largest heart-shaped D-Flawless diamond ever to appear at auction), flanked by smaller round diamonds.
It sold at Christie's Geneva on May 17, 2017 (lot 228) for just under $15 million, setting a new world auction record for a heart-shaped diamond.
It reinforced the brand's reputation for working with record-breaking stones shortly after its launch.
