Jewels - 2nd page
See also : Jewels Cartier Jadeite necklace Qianlong Spain III Ancient Spain Louis XV-XVI India
Chronology : 1570-1599 18th century 1790-1799 1933 1972
1582-1972 Peregrination of a Pearl
2011 SOLD 11.8 M$ including premium
It entered in 1582 into the Spanish royal collection, where it was considered as the biggest pearl in the world. Pear-shaped, it was then weighing 223 grains.
Mary I of England, wife of Philip II of Spain, used it very elegantly as a pendant to a brooch. Philip IV of Spain preferred it as a hat pin. It went to France during the Spanish war of Joseph Bonaparte, and Napoleon III sold it to the English aristocracy.
This wandering pearl has been known for two centuries under the name La Peregrina. It lost twenty grains when it was reworked to improve the security of its setting.
Richard Burton bought it in 1969 at Sotheby's auction as a gift to Elizabeth Taylor.
It was mounted as pendant in a pearl necklace that did not please its new owners. Burton and Taylor then made designed by Cartier in 1972 the magnificent necklace of pearls, rubies and diamonds, where it is again hanging as pendant.
This necklace, estimated $ 2M, is for sale on December 13 in New York by Christie's., lot 12.
POST SALE COMMENT
This is a new successful step in the fabulous history of the pearl. Sold $ 11.8 million including premium, its necklace achieved the highest result in one of the best jewelry sales in auction history: total $ 116M including premium for only 80 lots.
1791 The Pearls of Queen Marie-Antoinette
2018 SOLD for CHF 36.4M including premium by Sotheby's
narrated in 2020
During early phase of the Revolution, Marie-Antoinette who is still the Queen plans to flee to Austria. In January 1791, helped by her chambermaid, she prepares a cassette with her favorite jewelry. The jewels reach Vienna but the king and queen are arrested in Varennes in June 1791.
In 1795 Madame Royale, the only survivor of the children of the royal couple, is freed from the revolutionary prisons and goes into exile in Vienna. The emperor Franz II returns the jewels to her while keeping the rubies in compensation for a pension granted to the princess. In Madame Royale's legacy in 1851, one third of the jewelry is attributed to her niece Louise, Duchess of Parma.
Around 1930 Marie-Anne of Austria, wife of the acting Duke of Parma, describes in an inventory four jewels in pearls and diamonds of which she attests that they come from Marie-Antoinette. These pieces, which had never been published or exhibited, were included in the auction of the royal jewelry from the Bourbon-Parma collection by Sotheby's on November 14, 2018.
Lot 97, a three-row pearl necklace with a diamond clasp, was sold for CHF 2.3M including premium over a lower estimate of CHF 200K. The next two lots, a necklace and a pair of earrings, were sold for CHF 450K each including premium.
Lot 100 was a 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85mm drop shaped pearl assembled in a pendant with a large diamond clasp and a bow of small diamonds. This interesting souvenir of a queen who had desired to live in the utmost luxury was sold for CHF 36.4M including premium over an estimate of CHF 1M to 2M.
Qing and 1933 - The Greatest Jadeite Necklace
2014 SOLD 214 MHK$ including premium
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of the stone is lost.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
The prestige of jade reached the Western world. A lot of 27 highly reflective emerald green jadeite beads, between 15.4 and 19.2 mm in diameter, is included in 1933 in the inventory of Cartier.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847. It had been estimated in excess of HK $ 100M.
1900 The Tiara of Princess Katharina
2011 SOLD 11.3 MCHF including premium
The Donnersmarck tiara, for sale by Sotheby's in Geneva on May 17, remains intact. It is estimated CHF 4.6 million and illustrated in the article shared by International Business Times.
It is absolutely superb. The rich diamond headband is topped with a fabulous set of eleven emeralds gradually increasing from the center. The total weight of the gemstones is around 500 carats.
The expertise of gems and the habits of prince (Fürst) von Donnersmarck may generate plausible assumptions about the composition of this jewel, created circa 1900 as a gift to his second wife Katharina.
The Colombian origin of the emeralds is guaranteed. They were cut in dropsand polished, probably in India. Donnersmarck had the second largest fortune in Germany and enjoyed Paris, where his first wife, the "Paiva", had hit the society column. At the fall of the Second Empire, he had bought some gems from the collection of the Empress Eugénie, perhaps including some of those emeralds.
He was a customer of major Parisian jewelers, and Sotheby's catalog says that he ordered to Chaumet in 1896 a crown of similar design.
POST SALE COMMENT
Sold CHF 11.3 million including premium, this princely jewel that looks like a royal crown exceeded its higher estimate.
Please watch the video shared by Sotheby's.
1901 The Red Cross Diamond
2022 SOLD for CHF 14.2M by Christie's
It was cut as a cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond of 205.07 carats, graded in 2021 by the GIA as fancy intense yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity. Its size is 33.8 x 33.8 x 24.9 mm and its
gross weight is 41.1 grams.
Recognized in February 1918 by The Times as one of the greatest jewels of the world and acclaimed for its natural phosphorescence, it was donated to be sold in April 1918 by Christie's in London at the fourth and last annual war charity auction of the Red Cross. It fetched £ 10K equivalent to £ 600K of today. A cross had been faceted in the front side.
Known as the Red Cross Diamond, it was sold for CHF 1.8M by Christie's in Geneva in November 1973. It was sold for CHF 14.2M on May 11, 2022, again by Christie's in Geneva, lot 61. Part of the sale revenue will be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
#SpotlightSaturday The Red Cross Diamond: 'one of the rarest stones on Earth' fetched double its pre-sale estimate and realised CHF14,181,250 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale. A significant portion of the proceeds will benefit the International Committee of the @RedCross pic.twitter.com/mQ5lvh47h6— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) May 14, 2022
#SpotlightSaturday Christie's is proud to announce The Red Cross Diamond, a historically important fancy intense yellow, cushion-shaped diamond of 205.07 carat. A symbol of altruism, part of the sale revenue will be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. pic.twitter.com/DTIwEUQ9FL— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) April 16, 2022
Pigeon Blood from Burma
2015 SOLD for CHF 28M including premium
The Hope ruby from the Lily Safra collection was a pigeon blood weighing 32.08 carats mounted on a ring by Chaumet. It was sold for CHF 6.2 million including premium by Christie's on May 14, 2012.
The beauty of a ruby is also closely linked to its internal structure, and the price does not depend only on its weight. Considered as exceptional by Graff, the Graff ruby was sold for CHF 8.3 million including premium by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014, a great price for a stone which weighs only 8.62 carats. Its price per carat is almost competing with the best pink or blue diamonds.
Another pigeon blood wonder, exceptional in its shade and its weight, is for sale at Sotheby's in Geneva on May 12. The Sunrise ruby is weighing 25.59 carats. It was mounted on a ring between two diamonds by Cartier. It is estimated CHF 11.7 million corresponding to US $ 12M, lot 502.
The Pigeon Blood Red
2015 SOLD for HK$ 142M including premium
On 12 November 2014, Sotheby's sold the Graff Ruby for CHF 8.3 million including premium. This cushion cut ruby was considered exceptional by its weight, 8.62 carats.
The sale at Christie's in Hong Kong on December 1 includes no less than three jewels with pigeon blood rubies.
The ruby estimated HK $ 78M at lot 2121 is named The Crimson Flame. Also cushion cut, it weighs 15.04 carats. The Gübelin GemLab observed its high clarity and brilliance and the SSEF Swiss Gemological Institute stated that it can be considered an exceptional treasure. It is mounted on a ring in a pretty surrounding of cushion diamonds.
Lot 2120, estimated HK $ 48M, is a necklace by Faidee named The Mogok's Fiery Red. It consists of 32 rubies alternating with diamonds. The biggest of its rubies is weighing 5.05 carats.
Also signed by Faidee, a pair of ear pendants in rubies and diamonds is estimated HK $ 22,8M at lot 2119. Its rubies are weighing 5.08, 5.03, 2.51 and 2.49 carats.
Faidee is also the creator of the Red Emperor. This necklace was sold for HK $ 77M including premium by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014.
RESULTS INCLUDING PREMIUM :
15.04 carats on ring : HK$ 142M
necklace : HK$ 55M
pendants : HK$ 24M
Jubilee from Mogok
2016 SOLD for $ 14.2M including premium
The rubies of Mogok with the top quality reach $ 1M per carat. Recent examples at auction were cushion cut.
The Graff Ruby weighing 8.62 carats was sold for CHF 8.3 million including premium by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014. The Sunrise Ruby weighing 25.59 carats was sold for CHF 28M including premium by Sotheby's on May 12, 2015. The Crimson Flame weighing 15.04 carats was sold for HK $ 142M including premium by Christie's on December 1, 2015.
An oval cut, when it is feasible, further accentuates the beauty of a ruby. The Jubilee Ruby weighing 15.99 carats is almost circular and has all the other characteristics of a perfect ruby. Mounted on a ring by Verdura within a circle of diamonds, it is estimated $ 12M for sale by Christie's in New York on April 20, lot 255.
I invite you to admire the Jubilee Ruby in the video shared by Christie's. Its name is possibly by reference to the 250th anniversary of the auction house.
As Beautiful as Blue Feathers
2018 SOLD for HK$ 117M including premium
The constitution of a collection to make a necklace is a patient work that can extend over several generations. After being cut into a homogeneous shape, the stones are assembled in a sequence of gradual dimensions.
On November 27 in Hong Kong, Christie's sells the Peacock Necklace, lot 2068 estimated HK $ 95M. Please watch the video shared by the auction house, revealing that it took almost a hundred years to gather the gems and more than fifteen years to prepare the jewel.
On a platinum necklace 39.5 cm long, 21 Kashmir sapphires are interspersed with white diamonds. All these stones have a cushion shape. The weight of the sapphires ranges between 10.56 and 3.02 carats for a total of 109.08 carats which is staggering in their class. The diamonds are between 4 and 1 carats.
On April 7, 2014, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 77M including premium the Red Emperor, a necklace of pigeon's blood rubies assembled in 2013 amidst diamonds after being collected by a specialized company created in 1905. As for the Peacock Necklace, the utmost care had been taken in the homogeneity of the prestigious color.
2013 SOLD 32.6 MCHF including premium
A wide range of colors of diamonds is possible in nature between yellow and pure orange. However pure orange is extremely rare, and it is certainly more striking than other mythical colors such as dark red. An old classification designated the Fancy Vivid Orange as the fire diamond.
All great diamonds have a name. It was not difficult to create it for this one. It has no competitors in its class. It is The Orange, simply. Here is the link to the catalog.
This exceptional diamond is estimated CHF 16M before fees, corresponding to U.S. $ 1.15 million per carat. It is very difficult to actually predict its price. We may however compare it to a fancy vivid pink VS2 weighing 6.43 carats, of a prestigious but less rare color, that was sold for U.S. $ 1.15 million per carat including premium by Sotheby's on October 6, 2010 in Hong Kong.
POST SALE COMMENT
The estimate was too conservative. This stunning diamond was sold for CHF 32.6 million including premium (US $ 2.4 million per carat).
1984 The Golden Canary
2022 for sale on December 7 by Sotheby's
Its shape was irregular with one striped face and one hollow face. Its cutting required four years of difficult work. The wonderful gem had a near perfect clarity in a variety of colors. The biggest finished diamond named The Incomparable was an internally flawless fancy deep brownish yellow shield shaped weighing 407.48 carats.
The shield was not eye catching. The Incomparable was down sized as a pear modified brilliant 53.38 x 33.50 x 22.20 mm weighing 303.10 carats with a very good symmetry.
It is renamed the Golden Canary. The GIA acknowledges it in 2022 as the largest Flawless or Internally flawless, and largest pear shaped diamong graded by them. It is estimated $ 15M for sale by Sotheby's on December 7, 2022, lot 75.