Jewels - 2nd page
See also : Jewels African gems Cartier Jadeite Qianlong Spain II Ancient Spain Louis XV-XVI India
Chronology : 1660-1679 18th century 1790-1799 1933 2020 to now
1664 The Wittelsbacher
2008 SOLD for £ 16.4M by Christie's
This Indian greyish-blue diamond weighing 35.56 carat of VS2 clarity is chosen in 1664 by King Philip IV of Spain to enter the dowry of his daughter, the Infanta Margarita Teresa. The princess is well known for being in 1656 the main character of the Meninas of Velazquez. So this diamond is a contemporary of the royal glory of the Koh-I-Noor, the Regent and the Orlov. Entered in the Bavarian royal family by a marriage in 1722, it was then known as Blaue Wittelsbacher.
It was sold by Christie's in 1931 with the crown jewelry of Bavaria, and for £ 16.4M on December 10, 2008, lot 212. It has been purchased at the latter sale by Graff Diamonds. Its image before being recut by Graff is shared by Wikimedia :
1791 The Pearls of Queen Marie-Antoinette
2018 SOLD for CHF 36.4M including premium by Sotheby's
narrated in 2020
During early phase of the Revolution, Marie-Antoinette who is still the Queen plans to flee to Austria. In January 1791, helped by her chambermaid, she prepares a cassette with her favorite jewelry. The jewels reach Vienna but the king and queen are arrested in Varennes in June 1791.
In 1795 Madame Royale, the only survivor of the children of the royal couple, is freed from the revolutionary prisons and goes into exile in Vienna. The emperor Franz II returns the jewels to her while keeping the rubies in compensation for a pension granted to the princess. In Madame Royale's legacy in 1851, one third of the jewelry is attributed to her niece Louise, Duchess of Parma.
Around 1930 Marie-Anne of Austria, wife of the acting Duke of Parma, describes in an inventory four jewels in pearls and diamonds of which she attests that they come from Marie-Antoinette. These pieces, which had never been published or exhibited, were included in the auction of the royal jewelry from the Bourbon-Parma collection by Sotheby's on November 14, 2018.
Lot 97, a three-row pearl necklace with a diamond clasp, was sold for CHF 2.3M including premium over a lower estimate of CHF 200K. The next two lots, a necklace and a pair of earrings, were sold for CHF 450K each including premium.
Lot 100 was a 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85mm drop shaped pearl assembled in a pendant with a large diamond clasp and a bow of small diamonds. This interesting souvenir of a queen who had desired to live in the utmost luxury was sold for CHF 36.4M including premium over an estimate of CHF 1M to 2M.
Qing and 1933 - The Greatest Jadeite Necklace
2014 SOLD 214 MHK$ including premium
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of a rough is lost. Keeping the homogeneity in a set of beads generated much waste, so that the necklaces of round beads are the most appreciated.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
The prestige of jade reached the Western world. A lot of 27 highly reflective emerald green jadeite beads, between 15.4 and 19.2 mm in diameter, is included in 1933 in the inventory of Cartier.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847. It had been estimated in excess of HK $ 100M.
1901 The Red Cross Diamond
2022 SOLD for CHF 14.2M by Christie's
It was cut as a cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond of 205.07 carats, graded in 2021 by the GIA as fancy intense yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity. Its size is 33.8 x 33.8 x 24.9 mm and its
gross weight is 41.1 grams.
Recognized in February 1918 by The Times as one of the greatest jewels of the world and acclaimed for its natural phosphorescence, it was donated to be sold in April 1918 by Christie's in London at the fourth and last annual war charity auction of the Red Cross. It fetched £ 10K equivalent to £ 600K of today. A cross had been faceted in the front side.
Known as the Red Cross Diamond, it was sold for CHF 1.8M by Christie's in Geneva in November 1973. It was sold for CHF 14.2M on May 11, 2022, again by Christie's in Geneva, lot 61. Part of the sale revenue will be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
#SpotlightSaturday The Red Cross Diamond: 'one of the rarest stones on Earth' fetched double its pre-sale estimate and realised CHF14,181,250 at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale. A significant portion of the proceeds will benefit the International Committee of the @RedCross pic.twitter.com/mQ5lvh47h6— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) May 14, 2022
#SpotlightSaturday Christie's is proud to announce The Red Cross Diamond, a historically important fancy intense yellow, cushion-shaped diamond of 205.07 carat. A symbol of altruism, part of the sale revenue will be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. pic.twitter.com/DTIwEUQ9FL— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) April 16, 2022
2022 Estrela de Fura Ruby
2023 SOLD for $ 35M by Sotheby's
Cut and polished from that gem in 2023 in Bangkok by a master gem cutter under Fura's supervision, Estrela de Fura 55.22 is a cushion ruby weighing 55.22 carats, with a beautifully saturated vivid red color. Its fine and homogeneous clarity is unprecedented in unheated rubies of similar size. Its fluorescence under ultraviolet light is exceptional for African rubies.
Set as a ring, it was sold for $ 35M by Sotheby's on June 8, 2023, lot 59. Please watch the short and long videos shared by the auction house.
The largest and most valuable ruby to ever appear at auction comes to #SothebysNewYork: The Estrela de FURA 55.22.— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) April 5, 2023
Carrying an estimate in excess of $30M, the ruby is set to break auction records and will appear in our Magnificent Jewels sale this June. pic.twitter.com/o4S9LJJVNn
The Sunrise Ruby
2015 SOLD for CHF 28M by Sotheby's
The beauty of a ruby is also closely linked to its internal structure that enhances the dispersion of light. Considered as exceptional by Graff, the Graff ruby was sold for CHF 8.3M by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014, lot 470, a great price for a stone which weighs only 8.62 carats. Its price per carat, CHF 960K, is almost competing with the best pink or blue diamonds.
The Sunrise ruby was sold for CHF 28M from a lower estimate of CHF 11.7M by Sotheby's on May 12, 2015, lot 502. That price per carat, CHF 1.1M, exceeds the Graff. It was sold for CHF 13M by Christie's on May 10, 2023, lot 96 from the collection of the late billionaire art collector Heidi Horten.
This cushion shaped brilliant cut ruby is weighing 25.59 carats, measuring 17.66 x 15.07 x 10.47 mm, It is pigeon blood red with rich saturation and high clarity. The shape and the finely proportioned cut provides vivid internal color reflections as commented by Gübelin. It is mounted on a platinum ring by Cartier between two shield shaped diamonds of 2.70 and 2.47 carats.
The Hope ruby is still bigger. This cushion shaped pigeon blood from the Lily Safra collection, weighing 32.08 carats, is mounted on a ring by Chaumet. It was sold for CHF 6.2M by Christie's on May 14, 2012, lot 66.
The Pigeon Blood Red
2015 SOLD for HK$ 142M including premium
On 12 November 2014, Sotheby's sold the Graff Ruby for CHF 8.3 million including premium. This cushion cut ruby was considered exceptional by its weight, 8.62 carats.
The sale at Christie's in Hong Kong on December 1 includes no less than three jewels with pigeon blood rubies.
The ruby estimated HK $ 78M at lot 2121 is named The Crimson Flame. Also cushion cut, it weighs 15.04 carats. The Gübelin GemLab observed its high clarity and brilliance and the SSEF Swiss Gemological Institute stated that it can be considered an exceptional treasure. It is mounted on a ring in a pretty surrounding of cushion diamonds.
Lot 2120, estimated HK $ 48M, is a necklace by Faidee named The Mogok's Fiery Red. It consists of 32 rubies alternating with diamonds. The biggest of its rubies is weighing 5.05 carats.
Also signed by Faidee, a pair of ear pendants in rubies and diamonds is estimated HK $ 22,8M at lot 2119. Its rubies are weighing 5.08, 5.03, 2.51 and 2.49 carats.
Faidee is also the creator of the Red Emperor. This necklace was sold for HK $ 77M including premium by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014.
RESULTS INCLUDING PREMIUM :
15.04 carats on ring : HK$ 142M
necklace : HK$ 55M
pendants : HK$ 24M
Jubilee from Mogok
2016 SOLD for $ 14.2M including premium
The rubies of Mogok with the top quality reach $ 1M per carat. Recent examples at auction were cushion cut.
The Graff Ruby weighing 8.62 carats was sold for CHF 8.3 million including premium by Sotheby's on November 12, 2014. The Sunrise Ruby weighing 25.59 carats was sold for CHF 28M including premium by Sotheby's on May 12, 2015. The Crimson Flame weighing 15.04 carats was sold for HK $ 142M including premium by Christie's on December 1, 2015.
An oval cut, when it is feasible, further accentuates the beauty of a ruby. The Jubilee Ruby weighing 15.99 carats is almost circular and has all the other characteristics of a perfect ruby. Mounted on a ring by Verdura within a circle of diamonds, it is estimated $ 12M for sale by Christie's in New York on April 20, lot 255.
I invite you to admire the Jubilee Ruby in the video shared by Christie's. Its name is possibly by reference to the 250th anniversary of the auction house.
As Beautiful as Blue Feathers
2018 SOLD for HK$ 117M including premium
The constitution of a collection to make a necklace is a patient work that can extend over several generations. After being cut into a homogeneous shape, the stones are assembled in a sequence of gradual dimensions.
On November 27 in Hong Kong, Christie's sells the Peacock Necklace, lot 2068 estimated HK $ 95M. Please watch the video shared by the auction house, revealing that it took almost a hundred years to gather the gems and more than fifteen years to prepare the jewel.
On a platinum necklace 39.5 cm long, 21 Kashmir sapphires are interspersed with white diamonds. All these stones have a cushion shape. The weight of the sapphires ranges between 10.56 and 3.02 carats for a total of 109.08 carats which is staggering in their class. The diamonds are between 4 and 1 carats.
On April 7, 2014, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 77M including premium the Red Emperor, a necklace of pigeon's blood rubies assembled in 2013 amidst diamonds after being collected by a specialized company created in 1905. As for the Peacock Necklace, the utmost care had been taken in the homogeneity of the prestigious color.
2013 SOLD 32.6 MCHF including premium
A wide range of colors of diamonds is possible in nature between yellow and pure orange. However pure orange is extremely rare, and it is certainly more striking than other mythical colors such as dark red. An old classification designated the Fancy Vivid Orange as the fire diamond.
All great diamonds have a name. It was not difficult to create it for this one. It has no competitors in its class. It is The Orange, simply. Here is the link to the catalog.
This exceptional diamond is estimated CHF 16M before fees, corresponding to U.S. $ 1.15 million per carat. It is very difficult to actually predict its price. We may however compare it to a fancy vivid pink VS2 weighing 6.43 carats, of a prestigious but less rare color, that was sold for U.S. $ 1.15 million per carat including premium by Sotheby's on October 6, 2010 in Hong Kong.
POST SALE COMMENT
The estimate was too conservative. This stunning diamond was sold for CHF 32.6 million including premium (US $ 2.4 million per carat).