ROLEX
1942 The Wrist of the Champions
2016 SOLD for CHF 2.4M including premium
Founded in 1905, the Rolex company is early specializing in wristwatches. The developments include miniaturization and sealing. Rolex will be a brand of sport watches and the company will sponsor the events. Thus in 1927 there is a Rolex on the wrist of a young woman who swims across the Channel. In 1935, another unit accompanies Malcolm Campbell in his automobile speed record at 482 km/h in Daytona.
The 4113 model 'antimagnétique' in stainless steel, made in twelve units in 1942, is far ahead of all other models of the brand with its split seconds chronograph and the superb readability of its oversized dial in a very narrow bezel 44 mm in diameter.
This watch is also the most mysterious : it was never published by Rolex and was not available for sale. The informations about the provenance rely on their appearances on the second market : they converge to the assumption of a gift to racing car champions and officials in the Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia.
One of the twelve was sold for CHF 1,03M including premium by Christie's on May 16, 2011. To understand the enigma, I had then assumed that they had been presented to test in competition this highly efficient model that will finally not enter into a phase of commercial production. This hypothesis seems indeed plausible : the discretion surrounding that operation was probably necessary for blocking the information to the competing watch brands.
Another 4113 was sold for CHF 1.1 million including premium by Christie's on May 13, 2013. It returns to Geneva to be sold by Phillips on May 14, lot 56 estimated CHF 800K.
The 4113 model 'antimagnétique' in stainless steel, made in twelve units in 1942, is far ahead of all other models of the brand with its split seconds chronograph and the superb readability of its oversized dial in a very narrow bezel 44 mm in diameter.
This watch is also the most mysterious : it was never published by Rolex and was not available for sale. The informations about the provenance rely on their appearances on the second market : they converge to the assumption of a gift to racing car champions and officials in the Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia.
One of the twelve was sold for CHF 1,03M including premium by Christie's on May 16, 2011. To understand the enigma, I had then assumed that they had been presented to test in competition this highly efficient model that will finally not enter into a phase of commercial production. This hypothesis seems indeed plausible : the discretion surrounding that operation was probably necessary for blocking the information to the competing watch brands.
Another 4113 was sold for CHF 1.1 million including premium by Christie's on May 13, 2013. It returns to Geneva to be sold by Phillips on May 14, lot 56 estimated CHF 800K.
1942 The Most Exclusive Rolex
2019 SOLD for CHF 1.94M including premium
The Rolex 4113 is the most confidential reference of that brand. Although it incorporates some interesting features never seen before or after in a Rolex model, it has never been included in a catalog, probably never made available for trade by Rolex, and never documented.
This chronograph wristwatch was made in 12 units in 1942. One of them was sold for CHF 2.4M including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016 over a lower estimate of CHF 800K.
Another one in original unrestored condition is estimated CHF 1.5M for sale by Phillips in Geneva on November 9, lot 139. It is narrated by Aurel Bacs in a short video embedded in the catalog. It was previously sold for CHF 1.03M including premium by Christie's on May 16, 2011, lot 129.
I discussed it as follows before the 2011 sale.
Rolex has ever managed to serve the sport. The wristwatch for sale is altogether one of the most prestigious and one of the most mysterious.
This stainless steel watch with a highly readable oversized dial 44 mm in diameter includes one of the most useful complications for sport timing : a split hand, which is superimposed on the seconds hand until the operator activates the button, and joins it again when the time measurement is completed. It is the perfect instrument for measuring the duration between two events.
The model 4113 was not included in the catalogs. The provenance of most of the 9 located units goes back to car drivers and officials of the Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia.
It was probably a gift, but the real reason for this operation has never been identified. I suggest that it could be a pre-series of a model that was finally never released. Its secret was required for keeping away the competitors of the brand.
This chronograph wristwatch was made in 12 units in 1942. One of them was sold for CHF 2.4M including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016 over a lower estimate of CHF 800K.
Another one in original unrestored condition is estimated CHF 1.5M for sale by Phillips in Geneva on November 9, lot 139. It is narrated by Aurel Bacs in a short video embedded in the catalog. It was previously sold for CHF 1.03M including premium by Christie's on May 16, 2011, lot 129.
I discussed it as follows before the 2011 sale.
Rolex has ever managed to serve the sport. The wristwatch for sale is altogether one of the most prestigious and one of the most mysterious.
This stainless steel watch with a highly readable oversized dial 44 mm in diameter includes one of the most useful complications for sport timing : a split hand, which is superimposed on the seconds hand until the operator activates the button, and joins it again when the time measurement is completed. It is the perfect instrument for measuring the duration between two events.
The model 4113 was not included in the catalogs. The provenance of most of the 9 located units goes back to car drivers and officials of the Giro Automobilistico di Sicilia.
It was probably a gift, but the real reason for this operation has never been identified. I suggest that it could be a pre-series of a model that was finally never released. Its secret was required for keeping away the competitors of the brand.
1952 The Whim of an Emperor
2017 SOLD for CHF 5.1M including premium
Bao Dai had been the Emperor of Viet Nam from 1926 to 1945. France attempts to rebuild its colonial policy by promoting the former emperor as head of state of the Etat du Viet Nam. The military reverses of the French army at Dien Bien Phu make the feasibility of the new state increasingly unlikely.
In the spring of 1954 the peace negotiations are held at the Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva. We easily understand that they are exhausting for Bao Dai. One day under an excuse of fatigue he leaves the conference, crosses the street and enters the shop of a retailer. He wants to take as a souvenir from Geneva a Rolex wristwatch that matches his high rank.
The employees are eager to satisfy this wealthy client but he refuses all the pieces that are brought to him. They manage to make him wait until the coming of a Rolex emissary with the most luxurious available watch of the brand, waiting for a customer in their headquarters since 1952. Bao Dai is happy to purchase this watch which now has on its case the slight wear of his frequent use.
This yellow gold Rolex 6062 features in its water-resistant Oyster type case a triple day-date-month calendar and the phases of the moon. Its black dial is embellished with the five indexes of even hours that are realized in diamonds. This is the only unit in this configuration. Two other watches are known with diamonds at the six odd indexes.
Directly coming from the family of the fallen emperor, the Bao Dai Rolex was sold for CHF 370K on 18 November 2002 by Phillips, de Pury et Luxembourg. It returns to the same auction house, now Phillips, on May 13 in Geneva, lot 93. The press release of March 27 announces an estimate in excess of US $ 1.5M worth CHF 1.5M.
In the spring of 1954 the peace negotiations are held at the Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva. We easily understand that they are exhausting for Bao Dai. One day under an excuse of fatigue he leaves the conference, crosses the street and enters the shop of a retailer. He wants to take as a souvenir from Geneva a Rolex wristwatch that matches his high rank.
The employees are eager to satisfy this wealthy client but he refuses all the pieces that are brought to him. They manage to make him wait until the coming of a Rolex emissary with the most luxurious available watch of the brand, waiting for a customer in their headquarters since 1952. Bao Dai is happy to purchase this watch which now has on its case the slight wear of his frequent use.
This yellow gold Rolex 6062 features in its water-resistant Oyster type case a triple day-date-month calendar and the phases of the moon. Its black dial is embellished with the five indexes of even hours that are realized in diamonds. This is the only unit in this configuration. Two other watches are known with diamonds at the six odd indexes.
Directly coming from the family of the fallen emperor, the Bao Dai Rolex was sold for CHF 370K on 18 November 2002 by Phillips, de Pury et Luxembourg. It returns to the same auction house, now Phillips, on May 13 in Geneva, lot 93. The press release of March 27 announces an estimate in excess of US $ 1.5M worth CHF 1.5M.
1953 Waterproof Complications by Rolex
2017 SOLD for CHF 1.93M including premium
Rolex watches are made to be worn on the wrist, not for hoarding. The luxury market is however tempting for the brand that launches in 1950 a high end chronometer watch with triple calendar (month - day in the month - day in the week) and phases of the Moon. This new model is available in two references : 6062 is an Oyster and 8171 is not waterproof.
The prestige of Rolex is immediately improved. When Emperor Bao Dai temporarily resided in Geneva he bought a yellow gold 6062 assembled in 1952 with a dial enhanced by diamonds, after he refused all other proposals. His watch recently discussed in this column will be sold by Phillips on May 13 in Geneva.
On May 14, second day of the same auction, Phillips sells a stainless steel 6062 assembled in 1953, lot 172 estimated above CHF 600K.
At that time steel watches were rarities intended for users needing a high stability of metal for severe conditions. Many have been damaged by an intensive use.
The watch that comes on sale is in excellent and unrestored condition. The Oyster back side configuration has protected from corrosion its fragile dial realized with a lacquered silver finish for providing a great luminosity.
The complications have a questionable interest for the traditional Rolex users : after a few years in production of the dual model 6062/8171, the brand waited until 2017 to release a new model offering the phases of the Moon.
The prestige of Rolex is immediately improved. When Emperor Bao Dai temporarily resided in Geneva he bought a yellow gold 6062 assembled in 1952 with a dial enhanced by diamonds, after he refused all other proposals. His watch recently discussed in this column will be sold by Phillips on May 13 in Geneva.
On May 14, second day of the same auction, Phillips sells a stainless steel 6062 assembled in 1953, lot 172 estimated above CHF 600K.
At that time steel watches were rarities intended for users needing a high stability of metal for severe conditions. Many have been damaged by an intensive use.
The watch that comes on sale is in excellent and unrestored condition. The Oyster back side configuration has protected from corrosion its fragile dial realized with a lacquered silver finish for providing a great luminosity.
The complications have a questionable interest for the traditional Rolex users : after a few years in production of the dual model 6062/8171, the brand waited until 2017 to release a new model offering the phases of the Moon.
1968 The Exotic Daytona
2017 SOLD for $ 17.8M including premium
Rolex launches in 1963 the Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 for the use of drivers of endurance racing cars. The brand believes that other customers will be proud to own such a watch with high-end performance. Sales are disappointing. To revive the model in late 1966 Rolex offers more stylish dials with a choice in a range of pleasing colors and with better designed numerals. This model is referred as 'exotic'.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. Since the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by the collectors without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage is for sale by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26 in New York, lot 8. Its consignor is James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. Observers consider that its estimate at $ 1M will be exceeded.
It is the first of three watches of that next sale discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
Paul Newman discovers the joys of car racing in 1968 when he plays with Joanne Woodward for the movie Winning which will be released in the following year. Joanne is his wife in this film and since 1958 in life. She is unfaithful in the film and madly in love in their privacy.
Joanne is worried about Paul's new passion for this dangerous sport. She offers him in 1968 a Daytona 6239 exotic on the back of which she has made inscribed the good advice "Drive Carefully Me".
Hyperactive and philanthropist, Paul is one of Hollywood's most popular personalities. Maniac in the accuracy of time, he is crazy about his 6239. Readers of magazines have fun to see Paul exhibiting regularly on his wrist this Rolex, recognizable from a distance by the simplicity of its design with the three sub-dials. Since the mid-1980s, exotic Daytonas have been nicknamed Paul Newman by the collectors without the intervention of the brand and without distinction of models (6239, 6241 and 6262 to 6265).
Paul is nice. One day when his daughter Nell's boyfriend forgot his watch, he gave him the 6239. Nell and James later separated without ceasing to cooperate closely. This eponymous watch to all the Daytona Paul Newman lineage is for sale by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26 in New York, lot 8. Its consignor is James and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Nell Newman Foundation created by Nell in 2010 to continue the charitable work of her father.
This watch intensely used by Paul has never been modified or reworked. It joins the glamor of Hollywood with the beautiful story of the two generations of Newmans. Observers consider that its estimate at $ 1M will be exceeded.
It is the first of three watches of that next sale discussed by the auctioneer Aurel Bacs in the video shared by Hong Kong Tatler.
1969 Waterproof Chronographs by Rolex
2017 SOLD for CHF 3.7M including premium
Rolex firmly established itself on the market of wristwatches for sport and extreme conditions as early as 1928 with its first Oyster case hermetically sealed to resist water and dust. In 1963, a new line of chronographs was named Daytona, a tribute to the city of Daytona Beach in Florida which is a symbol of speed on the track and at sea. The Paul Newman reference applies to elegant dials.
Another innovation is the improvement of the waterproofness by screw down pushers which will facilitate the industrial production of watches for the use of deep sea diving.
Launched in 1969 the 6263 type is most often assembled with pre-existing case backs of 6239 type. The design is not immediately stabilized and tiny differences of inscriptions or colors are considered now by collectors among the rarest sub-variants of the brand. The rest of this discussion refers solely to 6263 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman wristwatches built in 1969.
A stainless steel watch of the sub variant named Sotto due to the unusual position of its inscriptions on the dial was sold for CHF 2M including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016 over a lower estimate of CHF 750K. Named RCO for another inscription variant, a 6263 was sold for CHF 990K including premium by Christie's on November 10, 2013.
The "lemon" and the "tropical panda" are two other variants of the dial. A Tropical Panda was sold for CHF 930K including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016.
On May 15 in Geneva, Christie's sells a previously unknown stainless steel Sotto, lot 223 estimated CHF 450K.
On May 14 in Geneva, Phillips sells two watches also belonging to the above categories. Lot 235, estimated CHF 350K, is in stainless steel. Lot 237, estimated CHF 800K, is one of the rarest variants : a very elegant yellow gold 6263 watch with lemon dial and screw down pushers.
RESULTS :
Phillips lot 235 : SOLD for CHF 550K including premium
Phillips lot 237 : SOLD for CHF 3.7M including premium
Christie's : unsold
Another innovation is the improvement of the waterproofness by screw down pushers which will facilitate the industrial production of watches for the use of deep sea diving.
Launched in 1969 the 6263 type is most often assembled with pre-existing case backs of 6239 type. The design is not immediately stabilized and tiny differences of inscriptions or colors are considered now by collectors among the rarest sub-variants of the brand. The rest of this discussion refers solely to 6263 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman wristwatches built in 1969.
A stainless steel watch of the sub variant named Sotto due to the unusual position of its inscriptions on the dial was sold for CHF 2M including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016 over a lower estimate of CHF 750K. Named RCO for another inscription variant, a 6263 was sold for CHF 990K including premium by Christie's on November 10, 2013.
The "lemon" and the "tropical panda" are two other variants of the dial. A Tropical Panda was sold for CHF 930K including premium by Phillips on May 14, 2016.
On May 15 in Geneva, Christie's sells a previously unknown stainless steel Sotto, lot 223 estimated CHF 450K.
On May 14 in Geneva, Phillips sells two watches also belonging to the above categories. Lot 235, estimated CHF 350K, is in stainless steel. Lot 237, estimated CHF 800K, is one of the rarest variants : a very elegant yellow gold 6263 watch with lemon dial and screw down pushers.
RESULTS :
Phillips lot 235 : SOLD for CHF 550K including premium
Phillips lot 237 : SOLD for CHF 3.7M including premium
Christie's : unsold
1970 A White Gold Chronograph
2018 SOLD for CHF 5.9M including premium
Luxury watches and sports watches do not meet the needs of the same users. Rolex has however offered a yellow gold variant of the Cosmograph Daytona for which the suffix /8 was added to the model's reference. The brand used white gold as an option /9 for the Day-Date.
Experts of Rolex's practices considered that a white gold Daytona was unbelievable. On November 21, 2013 Hodinkee publishes an interview with the Italian specialized author John Goldberger who unveils rare pieces from his collection. The miracle occurs at 04:30 of the video inserted in that article : Goldberger wears on his wrist the only known example of a Daytona in white gold. There may have never been any other similar piece, not in white gold, nor in pink gold, nor in platinum.
This watch is a 6265. The Rolex archives retrieved the dates of its production, in 1970, and of its delivery to a German retailer in the following year. In 2018 Hodinkee observes that the crown has remained in stainless steel, probably indicating that the metal of the case has been changed in the factory. The reason for this special operation has not been found.
Paul Newman's Daytona was sold for $ 17.8M including premium by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, demonstrating that an exceptional Rolex can fetch a sensational price. Goldberger decided to sell his 6265/9 entirely for the Children Action charity. It is estimated CHF 3M for sale on May 12 in Geneva by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo, lot 8.
Gold is heavier than stainless steel and it was the unusual weight of this 6265 that attracted Goldberger many years ago when he inspected it before buying.
Please watch the video shared by Pucci Papaleo, the curator appointed by Phillips for this 32-lot Daytona Ultimatum auction.
Experts of Rolex's practices considered that a white gold Daytona was unbelievable. On November 21, 2013 Hodinkee publishes an interview with the Italian specialized author John Goldberger who unveils rare pieces from his collection. The miracle occurs at 04:30 of the video inserted in that article : Goldberger wears on his wrist the only known example of a Daytona in white gold. There may have never been any other similar piece, not in white gold, nor in pink gold, nor in platinum.
This watch is a 6265. The Rolex archives retrieved the dates of its production, in 1970, and of its delivery to a German retailer in the following year. In 2018 Hodinkee observes that the crown has remained in stainless steel, probably indicating that the metal of the case has been changed in the factory. The reason for this special operation has not been found.
Paul Newman's Daytona was sold for $ 17.8M including premium by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo on October 26, 2017, demonstrating that an exceptional Rolex can fetch a sensational price. Goldberger decided to sell his 6265/9 entirely for the Children Action charity. It is estimated CHF 3M for sale on May 12 in Geneva by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo, lot 8.
Gold is heavier than stainless steel and it was the unusual weight of this 6265 that attracted Goldberger many years ago when he inspected it before buying.
Please watch the video shared by Pucci Papaleo, the curator appointed by Phillips for this 32-lot Daytona Ultimatum auction.
(1981)-1983 Another Daytona for Paul Newman
2020 SOLD for $ 5.5M including premium
Paul Newman is passionate about time control, timing anything and the rest of it. In 1968 his wife the actress Joanne Woodward gives him a wristwatch that matches his desires : a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. The accuracy is unparalleled and the robustness is perfect.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips on October 26, 2017 for $ 17.8M including premium from an estimate of $ 1M to 2M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch is estimated in excess of $ 1M for sale by Phillips in New York on December 12, lot 38.
For their 25th wedding anniversary in 1983, Joanne renews the Daytona. She presents to Paul a Cosmograph 6263, assembled circa 1981, also in stainless steel. The success is similar : Paul will wear it almost every day until his death in 2008.
The 6263 is an Oyster whose chronometer is actuated by a screw-in pusher, to prevent an unwanted start underwater. Always ready for an action, Paul liked to keep this pusher in the unlocked position.
Otherwise the use is similar with the same sub-dials. His 6239 has an off-white dial with black sub-dials. His 6263 has white sub-dials and a black background. Its variant is named Big Red to describe the big letters of the word Daytona along with the long sticks marking the hours.
Fifteen years apart, Joanne had a kind word inscribed on the back of the watches to urge Paul to be careful on the tracks : Drive Carefully Me on the first, Drive slowly / Joanne on the second.
When the 6239 became a duplicate, Paul gave it to the boyfriend of his daughter Nell. The watch resurfaced thirty years later and was sold by Phillips on October 26, 2017 for $ 17.8M including premium from an estimate of $ 1M to 2M. In the meantime, Rolex enthusiasts had given the Daytona models the nickname Paul Newman.
His daughter Clea had kept the 6263. This watch is estimated in excess of $ 1M for sale by Phillips in New York on December 12, lot 38.
Platinum Daytona
1
1999
2020 SOLD for HK$ 25.4M by Sotheby's
In 1988 Rolex modernizes the Daytona Oyster Perpetual with the 16520 series with automatic winding. They use the 4030 caliber which is directly derived from the Zenith 400 El Primero created in 1969. In 2000 the 4030 is replaced by the 4130 which is the first automatic caliber entirely designed by Rolex.
The success is immediate. In 1991 Rolex, tempted to return to the luxury watch market, creates the 16518 in yellow gold, soon followed by the 16519 in white gold. The 16518 also introduces the Racing dial with Arabic numerals.
At the end of the decade, Rolex assembles a few platinum specimens under the reference 16516, with unique dials in different colors, to test the effect. The population is estimated at 4 or 5. Sotheby's knows three of them.
One of them, dated 1998, has a turquoise blue lacquer dial. It was sold for HK $ 24.4M on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
Another one, with a case number adjacent to the previous example, was assembled in 1999 with a lapis lazuli dial. It was sold on July 11, 2020 for HK $ 25.4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 4M, lot 2236.
The third example, assembled in 1999 with a mother-of-pearl dial, was sold for HK $ 6.8M including premium on October 2, 2018, lot 2265. Then recently discovered, this watch had been reported in the catalog as the only known platinum Daytona.
The success is immediate. In 1991 Rolex, tempted to return to the luxury watch market, creates the 16518 in yellow gold, soon followed by the 16519 in white gold. The 16518 also introduces the Racing dial with Arabic numerals.
At the end of the decade, Rolex assembles a few platinum specimens under the reference 16516, with unique dials in different colors, to test the effect. The population is estimated at 4 or 5. Sotheby's knows three of them.
One of them, dated 1998, has a turquoise blue lacquer dial. It was sold for HK $ 24.4M on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
Another one, with a case number adjacent to the previous example, was assembled in 1999 with a lapis lazuli dial. It was sold on July 11, 2020 for HK $ 25.4M from a lower estimate of HK $ 4M, lot 2236.
The third example, assembled in 1999 with a mother-of-pearl dial, was sold for HK $ 6.8M including premium on October 2, 2018, lot 2265. Then recently discovered, this watch had been reported in the catalog as the only known platinum Daytona.
2
1998
2021 SOLD for HK$ 24.4M by Sotheby's
The unique platinum Daytona with a turquoise blue lacquer dial, dated 1998, was sold for HK $ 24.4M by Sotheby's on April 23, 2021, lot 2154.
