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New Watches

Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
​See also : Time pieces  OnlyWatch  Patek Philippe  Perpetual calendar  Watches II
Chronology : 2010-2019  2020 to now  2021
Modern Watches

​2008 Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000
2012 SOLD for HK$ 25M by Christie's​

The Calibre 89 of Patek Philippe with its 33 complications was made ​​in 4 units in 1989. It is a marvel of miniaturization, but not enough to be worn on the wrist : it weighs 1,100 grams and its 1,728 components are positioned in a case of 89 mm in diameter and 41 mm thick.

For entering the new millennium, the Swiss brand is preparing a new feat. In 2008 the Star Calibre 2000 is ready.

The Star Calibre 2000 is smaller than the Calibre 89 with "only" 73 mm in diameter, 32 mm thick and 530 grams, but it includes 21 complications, some of which show a really renewed imagination.

Perpetual calendar, equation of time, minute repeater are classical complications. We also find in this model the time of crossing the meridian by the Moon and Sirius, the sky chart and the ring that mimics the Westminster chimes. It is protected by six patents, one of which for the time of sunrise and sunset.

A Star Calibre 2000 was sold for HK $ 25M by Christie's on November 28, 2012, lot 2952. This is one of the three Patek Philippe watches from the Dragon collection highlighted in the video shared by Christie's.
2008

2009 F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine
2022 SOLD for CHF 3.05M by Christie's

The first ever wristwatch combining the grande and petite sonnerie was made in 1992 by Dufour.

François-Paul Journe released in 2006 his Sonnerie Souveraine model with both strikes, for which he received ten patents. Four units were built each year until 2018. The case was made in stainless steel for a better sound. The mechanism is using 582 components.

The development had lasted six years, with the amusing target that it could be used without failing by an eight year old child. The challenge was to create a low tension movement to activate the grand strike of the quarter hours in a wristwatch with a 24 hour autonomy without a loss in the accuracy nor in the chime. The petite sonnerie is the minute repeater.

A bespoke example dated Janvier 2009 on the case was sold for CHF 3.05M from a lower estimate of CHF 2.4M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2111.

The unique petrol blue color of its dial is a possibly unique technical feat requiring multiple applications of lacquer layers by hand plus the mirror polishing of each layer.

This example was built by F.P. Journe SA for a close friend whose name is engraved on the case back beside Julius Caesar's motto Ab Imo Pectore and the ambitious technical aphorism Ars Longa, Vita Brevis. The FIA 7th Constructors’ Formula One World Champions logo also designates that first owner. This man, whose name is not disclosed in the catalogue for legal reasons, retired from operations a few months later to become the President of the FIA.

2013 Richard Mille RM 56-01
2022 SOLD for CHF 3.65M by Christie's

The Richard Mille company offers wristwatches of very high performance, often associating with its models the sponsorship of a sports champion. Advanced technologies bring weightlessness, transparency and robustness against severe environment.

The release in 2012 of the RM 056 - Felipe Massa in a limited edition of five was an event in terms of watchmaking innovation. Its price was about $ 1.7M. The three elements that make up the case of this split-seconds chronograph watch are transparent with an absolute clarity, allowing the user to see from any angle the movement of the tourbillon through the skeletonized lower part of the dial.

The transparent material is a sapphire crystal, resistant to any scratch. The machining and polishing of a sapphire piece takes several hundred hours. The use of titanium is extended to all mechanical components and to the baseplate. The case is water resistant to 50 meters.

Evolution still goes forward. The RM 56-01 has its baseplate and its third hand in sapphire. RM 27-01 - Rafael Nadal and RM 56-02 incorporate a further improvement in the suspension of the movement on the baseplate. At its release in 2014 the price of the RM 56-02 was about $ 2M.

On June 21, 2017, Christie's sold for $ 1.2M the prototype No. 2 of the RM 056, made in 2012, lot 228. The number of prototypes realized for that model before the production run has not been disclosed.


An RM 056-01 made in 2013 was sold for CHF 3.65M from a lower estimate of CHF 2.5M by Christie's on November 6, 2022, lot 2096. Its transparent dial has a titanium minute ring and luminous hour indexes.

2015 Patek Philippe 5016A-010
2015 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips for OnlyWatch

Patek Philippe responds most often  to the OnlyWatch rules of uniqueness with a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions : titanium in 2007 and 2013, steel in 2011 and 2015.

​The Patek Philippe 5016A-010 sold by Phillips on November 7, 2015 fetched CHF 7.3M.
Perpetual Calendar

2017 Patek Philippe 5208T-010
2017 SOLD for CHF 6.2M by Christie's for OnlyWatch

The 2017 OnlyWatch event was entrusted to Christie's on November 11.

Patek Philippe regularly offers a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions. The titanium reappeared in 2017 with the unique Patek Philippe 5208T-010, lot 12 sold for CHF 6.2M.

Released in 2011 with a platinum 5208P version, the 5208 is a triple complication watch : minute repeater, mono-pusher chronograph and perpetual calendar with apertures and phases of the moon taking into account the leap year. It is resistant to moisture and dust but not to water. Its removable back case can be replaced by a transparent back in sapphire crystal providing visibility onto the inside. It is assembled with more than 700 parts.

In the ever-improving range of the Patek Philippe complication watches, the 5208 is the first wristwatch whose triple complication includes a chronograph, unlike the 5207 released in 2008 with a tourbillon.

2019 Patek Philippe 6300A-010
2019 SOLD for CHF 31M by Christie's for OnlyWatch

In 2014, for celebrating the 175th anniversary of the brand, Patek Philippe release their first Grandmaster Chime wristwatch under the reference 5175 edited in seven units. Its 20 functions required 1,366 components for the movement and 215 components for the case, surpassing the 6200 Sky Moon Tourbillon. It is the achievement of 60,000 hours of development over seven years.

The 5175 is 48 mm in diameter and 16 mm in height with 11 pushers and buttons. Its central mechanism activates in parallel the visual reading on two dials including the perpetual calendar, the chimes of hours, quarters, minutes and day, and the acoustic alarm preselected with an accuracy of a quarter of an hour. The running time of the mechanical winding is 72 hours in silent mode and 30 hours in grande sonnerie.

Two of these applications are unprecedented : the insertion of an alarm in a wristwatch, and the audible indication of the day in the month in two digits covering 1 to 31 by the tens and units. The watch also strikes on demand the current hour and minute. A security prevents the user from operating two mechanisms at the same time if they are not compatible.

The reference 6300G in gray gold launched in 2016 is similar to the 5175 except that the references to the celebration have been removed.

The 2019 OnlyWatch auction was managed by Christie's in Geneva on November 9.

According to the rules applicable to this operation, each manufacturer offers a watch for which it guarantees that it is and will remain a one-off. On that year Patek Philippe supplies the unique copy of Grandmaster Chime in stainless steel, reference 6300A-010, lot 28. The steel improves the sound. It is inscribed "The Only One" on one of the dials. It was sold for CHF 31M.

The lot includes a one-day private tour of the workshops and museum for two people and a lunch with Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe.
Time Pieces
OnlyWatch
Patek Philippe
Decade 2010-2019

2021 Patek Philippe Nautilus

1
​​2021 SOLD for $ 6.5M by Phillips

The stainless steel 5711/1A Nautilus self winding waterproof wristwatch by Patek Philippe, launched in 2006, had become a symbol of sport chic for the watch lovers, with its elegantly simple dial design offered in a textured dark blue in the variant 010.

Its huge success with a reported 10 year waiting list had possibly been unexpected for the brand. With an argument of not encouraging speculation, they announced its termination in January 2021. Three months after this astonishing announcement, they relaunched a winning strategy by the release of the 5711/1A-014 with an olive green dial.

The new final steel version of the Nautilus 5711 is now the 5711/1A-018 scheduled to be produced in 170 pieces for celebrating the 170 years of the partnership across the Atlantic between Patek Philippe and Tiffany. The new dial color is the signature Tiffany robin egg blue. The markers and hands are in blackened white gold.

The 170 watches will be retailed by Tiffany, with the exception of the very first released example which was sold for $ 6.5M by Phillips on December 11, 2021, lot 1T, as a charity lot for the benefit of The Nature Conservancy environmental nonprofit. Please play the video shared by the auction house.

The Nautilus is also available in pink gold under the reference 5711/1R.
2020 to now
2021

2
2022 SOLD for CHF 3.2M by Christie's

A Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5711/1A-018 with the Tiffany blue dial and the Tiffany-Patek Philippe 1851-2021 170th anniversary partnership mark was sold for CHF 3.2M from a lower estimate of CHF 1.5M by Christie's on November 7, 2022, lot 34.

2021 FFC by Journe
​2021 SOLD for CHF 4.5M by Christie's for OnlyWatch

The entry by FP Journe for the 2021 OnlyWatch sale was a wristwatch based on the 20 years old Octa Calibre 1300. The hours are displayed by the appearance of the mobile fingers of a blue human hand while the minutes are driven by a rotating disk.

This instrument referred as the FFC Blue is unique, as required by the OnlyWatch rules. The tantalum case has been specially designed for this charity operation.

It is inscribed with references to Ambroise Paré and Francis Ford Coppola.

Ambroise Paré, the 16th century father of modern surgery and prosthetics, had invented a mechanical hand and artificial limbs operated by multiple catches and springs which simulated the joints.

During a dinner in 2012 at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in the Napa Valley, the filmmaker challenged François-Paul Journe to tell time with a human hand in a watch. He later supplied the sketches for the positions of the automaton to display twelve hours with the five fingers. The development of this unprecedented time instrument spanned seven years from 2014 onward.

That Journe FFC prototype was sold by Christie's on November 6, 2021 for CHF 4.5M, lot 22.
Watches 2nd page

2021 Royal Oak Jumbo by Audemars Piguet
​2021 SOLD for CHF 3.1M by Christie's for OnlyWatch

The Royal Oak is a success story of the Audemars Piguet brand. It was designed by Gerald Genta with a steel case embedding the ultra thin self winding Calibre 2121. This 50 m water resistant luxury sport watch remained basically unchanged. Its signature octagonal bezel inspired from diving helmets, its guilloché tapisserie pattern dial and its integrated bracelet are enjoyed by the watch lovers.

The original Royal Oak was the reference 5402A. Its closest  version is the 15202 with the  Calibre 2121 fitted in an extra thin case 8.1 mm thick in gold, platinum or steel. It is nicknamed Jumbo.

The entry of Audemars Piguet in the 2021 OnlyWatch sale is a Jumbo cased in sandblasted titanium with a grey tapisserie dial, announced as the last unique 15202 using the Calibre 2121. The bezel and the bracelet combine that titanium with polished palladium based Bulk Metallic Glass. The sale was operated by Christie's on November 6, 2021. It was sold for CHF 3.1M, lot 6.
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