Jewels
See also : Pink diamond Blue diamond Jewels II
Chronology : 18th century 1770-1779 1990-1999 1999 21st century 2010-2019 2014 2020 to now 2021
To pay tribute to April's birthstone, we take a look at 19 breathtaking diamonds from past & upcoming sales. https://t.co/7K4aYC8P2B pic.twitter.com/eJ99tD2lm8
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) April 16, 2017
Worn by royalty, sold by Christie’s. Historian Vincent Meylan traces 250 years of jewellery auctions at Christie’s https://t.co/am1Kn6sNMA pic.twitter.com/TPzSxZ4mGe
— Christie's (@ChristiesInc) November 10, 2016
> 1770 Pearl Pendant of Queen Marie-Antoinette
2018 SOLD for CHF 36.4M by Sotheby's
During early phase of the Revolution, Marie-Antoinette who is still the Queen plans to flee to Austria. In January 1791, helped by her chambermaid, she prepares a cassette with her favorite jewelry. The jewels reach Vienna but the king and queen are arrested in Varennes in June 1791.
In 1795 Madame Royale, the only survivor of the children of the royal couple, is freed from the revolutionary prisons and goes into exile in Vienna. The emperor Franz II returns the jewels to her while keeping the rubies in compensation for a pension granted to the princess. In Madame Royale's legacy in 1851, one third of the jewelry is attributed to her niece Louise, Duchess of Parma.
Around 1930 Marie-Anne of Austria, wife of the acting Duke of Parma, describes in an inventory four jewels in pearls and diamonds of which she attests that they come from Marie-Antoinette. These pieces, which had never been published or exhibited, were included in the auction of the royal jewelry from the Bourbon-Parma collection by Sotheby's on November 14, 2018.
Lot 97, a three-row pearl necklace with a diamond clasp, was sold for CHF 2.3M. The next two lots, a necklace and a pair of earrings, were sold for CHF 450K each.
Lot 100 was a 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85mm drop shaped pearl assembled in a pendant with a large diamond clasp and a bow of small diamonds. This interesting souvenir of a queen who had desired to live in the utmost luxury was sold for CHF 36.4M from a lower estimate of CHF 1M.
- Featuring a 17.39-carat drop-shaped natural pearl suspended from a diamond bow, the pendant's provenance traces to the queen's collection, smuggled to safety during the French Revolution via a loyal valet.
- Natural pearls like this one, formed organically without human intervention, are exceptionally rare today due to overharvesting, driving collector demand and values far beyond cultured alternatives, as evidenced by peer-reviewed gemology studies on pearl scarcity.
The jewel in question is an exceptional 18th-century natural pearl and diamond pendant, featuring a slightly baroque drop-shaped natural saltwater pearl measuring approximately 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85mm, suspended from a diamond bow motif, with an oval diamond surmount that originally served as a clasp. The pearl exhibits a slightly cream body color with rosé and green overtones, good skin, and luster, while the central cushion-shaped diamond weighs about 3.40 carats, accompanied by other bright and lively diamonds. It was part of a larger parure, including a three-strand natural pearl necklace (totaling 161 pearls) and matching earrings, from which the pendant could be detached and worn separately. The piece shows signs of age-appropriate wear, such as tarnish, but remains in very good condition, weighing approximately 13 grams.
Origins and Acquisition by Marie Antoinette (Pre-1770s to 1791)
The pendant dates to the 18th century and was part of the extensive jewelry collection of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France (1755-1793), likely acquired during her time as Dauphine or Queen, possibly as a gift or purchase from royal jewelers. Natural pearls of this size and quality were exceedingly rare, sourced primarily from the Persian Gulf or other oceanic regions before overharvesting depleted supplies. Marie Antoinette was known for her opulent taste in jewels, and this pendant was worn as part of her three-strand pearl necklace, as depicted in portraits from before the French Revolution.
During the French Revolution (1791-1793)
In February 1791, amid escalating turmoil, Marie Antoinette packed her most valuable jewels, including this pendant and the accompanying parure, into a wooden chest hidden in a mezzanine cabinet at the Tuileries Palace in Paris. As the royal family attempted to escape (the failed Flight to Varennes), the jewels were smuggled out of France by a loyal confidant, possibly her hairdresser or valet, first to Brussels under the protection of her sister, Archduchess Maria Christina, Governor of the Austrian Netherlands. From there, they were forwarded to Vienna via Count Mercy-Argenteau, the Austrian ambassador, and placed in the safekeeping of her nephew, Emperor Francis II of the Holy Roman Empire. Marie Antoinette was arrested in 1791 and executed by guillotine on October 16, 1793, never seeing her jewels again.
Inheritance by Marie-Thérèse de France (1795-1851)
After Marie Antoinette's death, the jewels were released in 1795 to her only surviving child, Marie-Thérèse-Charlotte de France (1778-1851), known as Madame Royale, who had been imprisoned in the Temple Tower but was exchanged for French prisoners and exiled to Vienna. Marie-Thérèse, who later became Duchess of Angoulême and Comtesse de Marnes upon marrying her cousin Louis Antoine, Duke of Angoulême, kept the pendant as part of her mother's legacy. Having no children, she treated it as a family heirloom.
Transfer to the Bourbon-Parma Family (1851 Onward)
Upon Marie-Thérèse's death in 1851, she bequeathed a portion of her jewelry collection, including the pearl parure and pendant, to her adoptive niece and goddaughter, Louise Marie Thérèse d'Artois (1819-1864), daughter of Charles Ferdinand, Duke of Berry. Louise, who married Ferdinand Charles III, Duke of Parma in 1845, became Duchess of Parma and integrated the jewels into the Bourbon-Parma family holdings. She is depicted wearing the pendant in a 1849 painting by Prosper Raffi, alongside her children. After Charles III's assassination in 1854, Louise served as regent for their son, Robert I, Duke of Parma (1848-1907). The pendant remained in the Bourbon-Parma family, passing through generations of descendants. Robert I had 24 children from two marriages, and the jewels were likely inherited by branches including Prince Elias of Bourbon-Parma (1880-1959), son of Robert I, and subsequent heirs such as Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria (1882-1940), who married Prince Elias and inventoried the parure. The exact path through all descendants is not fully public, but it stayed within the family for over 200 years, preserved in its original fitted case and documented in family inventories as directly from Marie Antoinette.
The 2018 Auction and Beyond
In 2018, a descendant of the Bourbon-Parma family consigned the pendant to Sotheby's Geneva as Lot 100 in the "Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family" auction on November 14. Estimated at CHF 1-2 million, it sold for a record-breaking CHF 36,427,000 (approximately $36.8 million USD), shattering the previous auction record for a natural pearl by more than 20 times and becoming the most expensive pearl ever sold. The buyer remains anonymous, and no public information is available on its location or ownership since the sale.
This pendant's history encapsulates royal opulence, revolutionary drama, and enduring family legacy, making it one of the most significant jewels to survive from the French monarchy.
Marie Antoinette’s pendant sets auction record for a natural pearl at @Sothebys in Geneva:https://t.co/1glDvfpi3w pic.twitter.com/5z2iNTmd8a
— AntiquesTradeGazette (@ATG_Editorial) November 15, 2018
fancy vivid pink diamond
1
1999 The Pink Star by De Beers
2013 hammered at CHF 76M including premium by Sotheby's, UNPAID
2017 SOLD for HK$ 550M by Sotheby's
It had been expected beyond US $ 60M, a conservative estimate when we consider that it is "only" US$ 1M per carat, but nevertheless ambitious because no other diamond has ever reached such a price at auction.
Its come back was eagerly awaited by all the fans of highest jewelry and of auction history. It was sold for HK $ 550M by Sotheby's on April 4, 2017, lot 1801. Its expected value has been kept unchanged before from the 2013 auction.
Its subtle color, Fancy Vivid Pink, is the best graded among diamond colors. Internally Flawless means a perfect clarity. Its weight, 59.60 carats, is the highest recorded for finished flawless diamonds of that color. The fancy vivid pink weighing more than 10 carats are extremely rare.Its oval shape and its polish are the perfect result of two years of work executed by Steinmetz Diamonds.
It comes from a rough gem of 142.5 carats unearthed in 1999 by De Beers somewhere in Africa, which is currently the best location for new fabulous diamonds. Its mixed cut had required more than 50 subsequent models from epoxy casts. It was unveiled to the public in 2003.
Please watch the videos shared by Sotheby's : the 2013 pre sale video and the short video introducing the 2017 auction.
Pink Star history
The Pink Star, originally known as the Steinmetz Pink, is a remarkable 59.60-carat oval mixed-cut diamond (featuring a step-cut crown and brilliant-cut pavilion), graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) as Fancy Vivid Pink—the highest color saturation for pink diamonds—with Internally Flawless clarity and classified as Type IIa, denoting exceptional chemical purity and structural perfection. Pink diamonds derive their rare hue from plastic deformation in the crystal lattice during formation deep in the Earth's mantle, and the Pink Star stands out for its large size, intense color, and lack of secondary hues, making it one of the most valuable gems in history.
The diamond was mined by De Beers in South Africa in 1999 as a 132.5-carat rough stone, though exact mine details remain undisclosed in public records. Acquired by the Steinmetz Diamond Group, it underwent an intensive 20-month cutting and polishing process—a meticulous effort involving the removal of over half its rough weight to maximize color intensity and brilliance while achieving flawless clarity. The finished gem was unveiled in Monaco on May 29, 2003, initially named the Steinmetz Pink in honor of its cutters.
Shortly after, it gained public prominence when featured in the Smithsonian Institution's "The Splendor of Diamonds" exhibit in Washington, D.C., alongside other iconic stones like the De Beers Millennium Star (203.04 carats), the Heart of Eternity (27.64 carats), and the Moussaieff Red (5.11 carats). By 2007, it was renamed the Pink Star, entering a period of private ownership with limited public exposure until its auction debut.
The Pink Star made headlines on November 13, 2013, at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale in Geneva, where it fetched a then-record $83 million (CHF 76.325 million including fees) after intense bidding, surpassing the previous auction high set by the Graff Pink diamond. The buyer, New York diamond cutter Isaac Wolf, promptly renamed it the Pink Dream, but he defaulted on payment, leading Sotheby's to reclaim the stone under a guarantee agreement and void the sale.
It resurfaced on April 4, 2017, at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction in Hong Kong, where it sold for $71.2 million (HK$553,037,500 including fees) to Chow Tai Fook Enterprises, a Hong Kong-based jewelry conglomerate, in a bidding war that lasted about five minutes. This price re-established it as the most expensive diamond or jewel ever sold at auction, a record it holds as of January 2026, and marked the highest value for any item sold at auction in Asia at the time. Chow Tai Fook renamed it the CTF Pink Star in tribute to the company's founder, Chow Tai Fook, and its initials, and it has remained in their private collection since, with no subsequent sales, public exhibitions, or notable events reported through 2026. The diamond's journey underscores the escalating demand for rare colored diamonds, often viewed as alternative investments amid market volatility.
Sotheby’s Brings ‘Pink Star’ Diamond to Hong Kong https://t.co/D5Lo7D6NIX pic.twitter.com/yk5ph7cUhn
— Art Market Monitor (@artmarket) March 20, 2017
WATCH: World's most valuable cut diamond, the 59.60-carat "Pink Star," could fetch a record $60 million at auction: https://t.co/JsYfyHq5H8 pic.twitter.com/mLNLyhUhBY
— Good Morning America (@GMA) March 20, 2017
2
2021 The Williamson Pink Star
2022 SOLD for HK$ 450M by Sotheby's
The Williamson is famous for its high quality pink diamonds. A virtually flawless pink cut down to 23.6 carats was presented in 1947 by Williamson to Princess Elizabeth at her wedding with Prince Philip. Assembled by Cartier as the centre of a jonquil shaped brooch, it was frequently pinned on Her Majesty's coat.
On October 7, 2022, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 450M the Williamson Pink Star, lot 1115, which is $ 5M per carat. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
Strongly saturated, it is referred by the auction house as one of the purest and pinkest diamonds. Weighing 11.15 carats, it is the second biggest internally flawless fancy vivid pink ever listed at auction. It was cushion cut by Diacore from a 32 carat rough diamond found at the Williamson mine.
It is assembled on a 18 karat white and pink gold ring in a surrounding of small pink and white diamonds.
History of the Williamson Pink Star
The Williamson Pink Star is an exceptional 11.15-carat cushion-shaped Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with the highest color saturation for pink diamonds, Internally Flawless clarity, and classified as Type IIa for its chemical purity and lack of nitrogen impurities. Its vivid pink hue—often described as "bubblegum" pink—arises from plastic deformation in the crystal lattice during formation, a rare phenomenon with no confirmed trace elements like manganese involved, contrary to early theories. Among pink diamonds, which represent fewer than 5% of colored diamonds (themselves less than 3% of all diamonds graded by GIA), those exceeding 10 carats with Fancy Vivid grading are extraordinarily scarce; of 1,000 pink diamonds examined by GIA between 2008 and 2016, 83% weighed under 1 carat.
The diamond originates from the Williamson mine (also known as the Mwadui mine) in Tanzania, discovered in 1940 by Canadian geologist Dr. John Thorburn Williamson. This alluvial deposit became renowned for producing high-quality pink diamonds, including the historic 23.6-carat Williamson Pink diamond—a 54.5-carat rough cut into a round brilliant and presented by Williamson as a wedding gift to then-Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II) in 1947. The mine, Tanzania's first diamond operation and still active under Petra Diamonds' ownership since 2009, has yielded over 19 million carats total, though large pink roughs remain rare.
The Williamson Pink Star began as a 32.32-carat rough unearthed at the Williamson mine (exact discovery date undisclosed in public records). It was acquired and meticulously cut by Diacore (formerly the Steinmetz Diamond Group), a leading diamond manufacturer known for handling exceptional colored stones, including the Pink Star. The cutting process, which reduced the rough by more than 65% to enhance color saturation and achieve flawless clarity, resulted in the final 11.15-carat cushion mixed-cut form. GIA experts have praised it as "among the rarest of all gemstones," noting the need for an inherently strong body color in the rough to attain Fancy Vivid grading at this size, combined with its Internally Flawless clarity—a "special combination." Prior to its auction debut, the diamond remained in private hands with no documented public exhibitions or ownership changes, though its name honors the Williamson mine's legacy. It headlined a single-lot auction at Sotheby's Hong Kong on October 5, 2022, amid high anticipation in a market favoring rare colored diamonds. Bidding, conducted live with telephone and online participants, lasted about two minutes and culminated in a hammer price of HK$453.2 million (approximately $57.7 million USD), including fees, to an anonymous private collector advised by Sotheby's in Boca Raton, Florida. This sale established a new world auction record for the price per carat of any diamond, jewel, or gemstone at over $5.18 million per carat, surpassing previous benchmarks like the Winston Pink Legacy ($50.3 million for 18.96 carats in 2018) while ranking as the second-most valuable jewel ever auctioned, behind the CTF Pink Star ($71.2 million in 2017).
As of January 2026, the Williamson Pink Star remains in the anonymous buyer's private collection, with no subsequent auctions, exhibitions, or ownership transfers reported, solidifying its status among iconic pink diamonds like the Darya-i-Nur, Noor-ul-Ain, and Agra.
The Williamson Pink Star diamond was cut and polished by Diacore in 2022, following the company's purchase of the 32.32-carat rough in December 2021. (Note that an earlier reference in some sources to it being cut in 1947 appears to be a confusion with the separate Williamson Pink diamond gifted to Queen Elizabeth II.)
Its earliest public appearance was on August 31, 2022, when Sotheby's unveiled it in London as part of the pre-auction tour.
One of the world’s purest pink diamonds to ever appear at auction – the 11.15ct “Williamson Pink Star”, estimated at US.$21m / HK$170m, has the potential to set a new per carat price record for a Fancy Vivid pink diamond in Hong Kong this October. https://t.co/8eLMVwQVkM pic.twitter.com/wU8oFqLJw8
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) September 2, 2022
3
The Pink Legacy
2018 SOLD for CHF 50M by Christie's
This pink diamond Type IIa weighs 18.96 carats in a Fancy Vivid saturation without trace of secondary color and in VS1 clarity. Shaped in rectangle with cut corners, it is mounted on a ring. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
Its stone had been mined in South Africa and the jewel belonged to the Oppenheimer family. Although it cannot compete with the Pink Star, 59.60 carats Fancy Vivid Pink Internally Flawless, it is one of the best diamonds in its class.
Fancy Vivid is the high end of saturation, better than Fancy Intense, and big diamonds are rare in this shade. Above all, each diamond is different for a jeweler. The shape is chosen according to the homogeneity of the color. The rectangle offers the best brilliance. It is often used for white diamonds but big pink diamonds capable to maintain their full brightness in that shape are very rare.
In Fancy Vivid Pink saturation, a rectangular diamond weighing 5.18 carats whose clarity was only VS2 was sold for CHF 10M by Christie's on May 13, 2015, approaching CHF 2M per carat.
A cushion shaped potentially flawless fancy vivid pink weighing 5.00 carats, named The Vivid Pink, was sold for HK $ 84M by Christie's on December 1, 2009, corresponding to US $ 2.1M per carat, lot 2455.
Discovery and Origins
The Pink Legacy diamond, a rare Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, is believed to have been discovered approximately a century ago in a South African mine, around the early 20th century. It was cut from a larger rough stone into its current form, an 18.96-carat cut-cornered rectangular-cut diamond. Classified as a Type IIa diamond, it contains little to no nitrogen, resulting in exceptional transparency and brilliance. Its color is a pure, even pink with no secondary hues like purple, orange, brown, or grey, and it exhibits balanced saturation and tone—qualities that place it in the elite "Fancy Vivid" category by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Only one in a million diamonds achieves this vivid color depth, and pink diamonds over 10 carats in this grade are extremely rare, with fewer than 10% of all pink diamonds weighing more than 0.20 carats.
Ownership History
For much of its known history, the diamond was owned by the Oppenheimer family, who led the diamond-mining giant De Beers for over a century. The Oppenheimers, synonymous with the diamond industry, held the stone privately until deciding to auction it in 2018.
Auction and Record-Breaking Sale
On November 13, 2018, the Pink Legacy was offered at Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva, with an estimate of $30–50 million. It fetched CHF 50,375,000 (approximately $50.3 million USD), setting a world record price per carat for a pink diamond at about $2.6 million per carat. This sale marked it as the largest Fancy Vivid Pink diamond ever auctioned by Christie's in its 252-year history, with only four such diamonds over 10 carats appearing in that time. The buyer was Harry Winston, the renowned American jeweler, who outbid others in a competitive sale.
Post-Auction Developments and Current Status
Immediately after the purchase, Harry Winston renamed the diamond the "Winston Pink Legacy" and incorporated it into their collection of exceptional gems. In March 2021, to commemorate the 125th birthday of founder Harry Winston, the diamond was displayed at their New York flagship store, and the company indicated openness to offers from potential buyers. As of the latest available information, it remains part of Harry Winston's holdings, continuing to represent one of the most valuable and rare pink diamonds in existence.
The 19-carat 'Pink Legacy' ring—the largest and finest fancy vivid pink diamond ever offered at auction by @ChristiesInc—is expected to draw at least $30 million: https://t.co/RO4LdZHUv1 pic.twitter.com/Ce4MKJ3CLb
— ForbesLife (@ForbesLife) October 18, 2018
The Graff Pink, fancy intense pink diamond
2010 SOLD for CHF 45.4M by Sotheby's
On November 16, 2010, Sotheby's sold for CHF 45.4M from a lower estimate of CHF 27M another fancy intense pink diamond, also of VVS2 clarity, also emerald cut, but bigger. Weighing 24.78 carats, it is mounted on a ring. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
The fancy intense pink color is highly striking in this specimen. Its emerald shape may be considered as the best cut with regard to brilliance.
This diamond was already known : 60 years earlier, it was purchased to Harry Winston. It had never come back on the market. It will be later identified as the Graff Pink.
Its 2010 price per carat is US $ 1.83M.
History of the Graff Pink
The Graff Pink is an exceptional 23.88-carat emerald-cut diamond, graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) as Fancy Vivid Pink—the highest color saturation for pink diamonds—with Internally Flawless clarity and classified as Type IIa, indicating exceptional purity with no measurable nitrogen impurities. Its intense pink hue results from structural distortions in the crystal lattice during formation under extreme pressure, a rarity among diamonds where fewer than 0.03% of global production exhibits such coloration, and large specimens like this are extraordinarily scarce.
The diamond's early history remains shrouded in mystery, with no documented details on its mining origin or initial discovery—pink diamonds historically often trace to sources like Australia's Argyle mine (which supplied 90% of the world's pink diamonds before closing in 2020) or alluvial deposits in India and Brazil, though this is unconfirmed for the Graff Pink. It first entered recorded prominence in the mid-20th century when acquired by renowned American jeweler Harry Winston, famous for handling iconic gems like the Hope Diamond. Winston retained it in his private collection for nearly 60 years before selling it in the 1950s to an anonymous private collector, where it remained out of public view for decades.
The diamond resurfaced in 2010 when offered at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva on November 16, mounted in a simple ring setting. At that time, it weighed 24.78 carats, graded as Fancy Intense Pink with VVS2 clarity (possibly flawless but with 25 minor imperfections), and carried pre-sale estimates of $27–38 million amid growing demand for rare colored diamonds as investments. After competitive bidding, it was acquired by British jeweler Laurence Graff, founder of Graff Diamonds, for $46.2 million (CHF 45.4425 million including fees)—setting world auction records at the time for the most expensive pink diamond, the highest price per carat for a pink diamond (over $1.86 million per carat), and the most valuable single jewel ever sold at auction. Graff renamed it the Graff Pink in honor of his acquisition.
Shortly after, Graff's team undertook a risky recutting process using advanced laser technology and traditional techniques to eliminate the imperfections, enhance symmetry, and intensify the color without compromising the stone's integrity. This reduced its weight by 0.90 carats to 23.88 carats, upgrading the color to Fancy Vivid Pink and achieving full Internally Flawless clarity, as recertified by the GIA. The transformation elevated its value and brilliance, aligning with Graff's philosophy of perfecting exceptional gems. It was unveiled as part of Graff's collection in 2010 alongside other notable acquisitions like the Graff Constellation (102.34-carat white diamond) and the Delaire Sunrise (118.08-carat yellow diamond).
As of January 2026, the Graff Pink remains in the Graff Diamonds collection, celebrated as one of the world's most iconic pink diamonds and a benchmark for rarity and value in the colored diamond market, where such stones can command 10–100 times the price of comparable white diamonds. Its record was later surpassed by sales like the Pink Star ($71.2 million in 2017), but it endures as a symbol of pink diamonds' escalating desirability amid dwindling natural supplies.
After purchasing a 24.78-carat pink diamond in 2010, Laurence Graff of the renowned eponymous jewelry house set out to realize the stone's true potential. He had the diamond reshaped and removed 20 natural flaws before renaming it The Graff Pink. #IconicJewelry #GraffPink pic.twitter.com/9X8ByTxvKa
— Gemological Science International (GSI) (@Gem_Science) August 16, 2025
fancy vivid blue diamond
1
The Oppenheimer Blue
2016 SOLD for CHF 57M by Christie's
London is a hub for international operations and price controls. Sir Philip Oppenheimer retired in 1993 after 45 years as head of the Central Selling Organization of the cartel. This powerful position enabled him to keep exceptional gems.
On May 18, 2016, Christie's sold as lot 242 for CHF 57M from a lower estimate of CHF 38M the Oppenheimer Blue that had belonged to Sir Philip. Weighing 14.62 carats, it was in period the largest fancy vivid blue diamond ever offered at auction. It has been set on a ring by Verdura.
The clarity of the Oppenheimer Blue is excellent, graded VVS1 by the GIA. However, it does not reach the absolute purity of the Blue Moon, sold for CHF 49M by Sotheby's in 2015, whose stunning clarity generates a phosphorescence effect under ultraviolet radiation.
The exceptional saturation characterizing the fancy vivid blue hue is enhanced on the Oppenheimer Blue by a highly efficient rectangular cut.
I invite you to admire this masterpiece of jewelry in the video shared by Christie's.
Grok thought :
History of Oppenheimer Blue diamond
The Oppenheimer Blue is a remarkable 14.62-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with the highest color intensity for blue diamonds and a VVS1 clarity rating, making it exceptionally rare due to its size, hue, and purity. Its vivid blue color results from trace boron atoms in the carbon structure during formation, a phenomenon occurring in only about 0.02% of mined diamonds. The stone features a rectangular emerald step-cut, which is challenging for colored diamonds as it requires precise faceting to ensure even color distribution, and it is mounted in a platinum ring setting by Verdura.
Believed to originate from the Cullinan mine in South Africa—a premier source for rare blue diamonds—the Oppenheimer Blue's early history prior to the mid-20th century remains undocumented in public records. It entered prominence through its association with Sir Philip Oppenheimer (1911–1995), a key figure in the diamond industry and scion of the family that controlled De Beers. Joining the family business in 1934, Sir Philip sorted and valued diamonds before leading the Central Selling Organisation (Diamond Syndicate) in London for 45 years, granting him access to the world's finest gems. Despite this, he personally selected and retained the Oppenheimer Blue for its unparalleled quality, naming it in his honor (though the name was officially bestowed posthumously).
Following Sir Philip's death in 1995, the diamond passed into private hands around 2006–2007, where it remained with an anonymous collector for nearly a decade. It resurfaced publicly in 2016 when offered at Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva on May 18, marking it as the largest Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever to appear at auction at that time. The event drew intense interest amid a booming market for colored diamonds, following high-profile sales like the Mellon Blue (9.51 carats, $32.6 million in 2014) and the Blue Moon of Josephine (12.03 carats, $48.4 million in 2015). Bidding opened at the low estimate of $38 million and escalated into a dramatic duel between two telephone bidders, lasting several minutes and culminating in a final hammer price of $57.5 million (approximately $3.9 million per carat), including buyer's premium—setting a world record for the most expensive jewel sold at auction and the highest price per carat for any diamond or jewel at the time. The room erupted in applause, with Christie's experts noting the stone's mythical status and its role in creating "portable wealth" as the only $60-million object that fits in a pocket.
The anonymous buyer from the 2016 auction retains ownership as of 2026, with no subsequent public sales or exhibitions reported. The Oppenheimer Blue's record was later eclipsed by the Pink Star diamond ($71.2 million in 2017), but it remains an iconic example of rare blue diamonds' enduring value and allure, often cited alongside historic Christie's sales like the Wittelsbach Blue ($24.3 million in 2008) and the Winston Blue ($23.8 million in 2014). Christie's Global Head of Jewelry, Max Fawcett, has described it as "the most beautiful blue diamond I’ve ever seen," recalling its first viewing at a Verdura exhibit in New York.
The 14.62 carat Oppenheimer Blue, is one of the largest Fancy Vivid blue diamonds ever sold at auction. It was named after its previous owner, Sir Philip Oppenheimer, whose family controlled the De Beers Group. Learn more: https://t.co/g6fTgHjtMk Courtesy: Christie's Images pic.twitter.com/Y8qX4kwIwL
— GIA (@GIAnews) January 28, 2021
2
2021 The De Beers Cullinan Blue by Diacore
2022 SOLD for HK$ 450M by Sotheby's
It is bigger and clearer than the rectangular cut VVS1 14.62 carat Oppenheimer Blue, sold for CHF 57M by Christie's on May 18, 2016. It has the same internally flawless clarity as the cushion cut 12.03 carats of the Blue Moon, remarkable for its 20 second phosphorescent effect after exposure to UV light, sold for CHF 49M by Sotheby's on November 11, 2015.
The step cut, rectangular cut and emerald cut are the best suited to display the perfection of the gem, revealing any defect without pity and displaying the color in its evenly saturated beauty while optimizing the light reflection.
This masterwork of nature and craftsmanship was sold for HK$ 450M by Sotheby's in Hong Kong on April 27, 2022, lot 1800. Its $3.8 million per-carat value, surpassing the prior benchmark set by the 2015 Oppenheimer Blue, is driven by boron impurities that tint only 0.02% of diamonds blue.
The De Beers Cullinan Blue diamond, a rare Type IIb fancy vivid blue gem, has a relatively short but notable history tied to one of the world's most famous diamond mines.
Discovery and Mining
The diamond originated from a 39.34-carat rough stone unearthed in April 2021 at the Cullinan Mine in South Africa, operated by Petra Diamonds. The Cullinan Mine, discovered in 1902 and named after its founder Thomas Cullinan, has a storied past as the source of the world's largest rough diamond ever found—the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond in 1905, which was later cut into pieces for the British Crown Jewels. The mine is one of the few global sources for blue diamonds, which form due to trace amounts of boron in their crystal structure, and has produced other notable blues over the decades. Petra Diamonds, which acquired the mine from De Beers in 2008, certified this rough as conflict-free under the Kimberley Process.
Acquisition and Cutting
Shortly after discovery, the rough was acquired by a partnership between De Beers Group and master diamond manufacturer Diacore for an undisclosed sum (reported in some sources as around $40 million). Diacore, known for handling exceptional stones, spent nearly a year meticulously studying, cutting, and polishing the rough into a 15.10-carat step-cut rectangular diamond. This process involved significant risk due to the stone's rarity and value, with the final polish emphasizing its intense color and clarity. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) graded it as Fancy Vivid Blue (the highest color grade for blues, given to less than 1% of submissions), Internally Flawless, and Type IIb—making it the largest such step-cut vivid blue ever graded by the GIA and the largest vivid blue to appear at auction.
Auction and Sale
Named the De Beers Cullinan Blue in honor of its mine and the De Beers collaboration, the diamond was unveiled in February 2022 and toured globally (including stops in New York, London, Dubai, and Asia) before its standalone auction at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels sale in Hong Kong on April 27, 2022. Estimated at over $48 million, it sold after intense bidding for HK$450,925,000 (approximately US$57.47 million) to an anonymous private collector via telephone. This set a new record for the highest price per carat for a blue diamond at about $3.8 million, surpassing the previous benchmark held by the 12.03-carat Blue Moon of Josephine (sold for $48.5 million in 2015). It fell just short of the overall record for a vivid blue diamond, held by the 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue ($57.54 million in 2016).
Post-Sale History and Controversies
Since the 2022 sale, there have been no public updates on the diamond's ownership, resale, or current location as of January 2026—it remains in private hands with no reported exhibitions or further auctions. The diamond's history is not without ethical scrutiny: While certified conflict-free, its association with De Beers has drawn criticism due to the company's historical role in South Africa's diamond industry during apartheid, including labor exploitation and market monopolization. However, the Cullinan Mine's modern operations under Petra emphasize sustainable practices, and blue diamonds like this one represent less than 0.01% of global production, underscoring their geological rarity.
This diamond exemplifies the enduring allure of blue gems, with historical parallels to famous blues like the Hope Diamond (cut from the 17th-century Tavernier Blue).
At 15.10 carats, the rare @debeersgroup Cullinan Blue Diamond is the largest vivid blue diamond ever to appear at auction and the largest internally flawless step cut vivid blue diamond that the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has ever graded. https://t.co/7Ch6cfAN8r pic.twitter.com/yscMNqGC1l
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) February 16, 2022
3
2014 the Blue Moon (of Josephine)
2015 SOLD for CHF 49M by Sotheby's
The new diamond is fancy vivid blue without inclusion, which is already a great rarity. It was purchased by Cora International, headquartered in New York, which processed it. This fancy vivid blue cut to 12.03 carats is the largest internally flawless blue diamond in cushion shape.
Once completed, it revealed even more exceptional qualities. Its ocean blue color is perfect without a secondary hue. It has no fluorescence. An exposure to ultraviolet radiation generates an intense orange-red phosphorescence that persists for about twenty seconds, a sensational feature which is known only to a few blue diamonds of absolute purity.
It is a masterpiece in both its size and features. It was named The Blue Moon in reference both to its shape and to the saying 'Once in a blue moon' that means a total rarity. It seems inconceivable to find better in its class, especially since the production of the Cullinan mine tends to decrease.
The Blue Moon was sold for CHF 49M from a lower estimate of US $ 35M by Sotheby's on November 11, 2015, lot 513. Please watch the video shared by Sotheby's. Its record value at US $ 4M per carat rewards its absolute purity generating the phosphorescence effect.
It is now referred as the Blue Moon of Josephine.
Blue Moon : One of the first major blue diamonds post-discovery to achieve flawless clarity. Provide details about that breakthrough.
Discovery and Acquisition
The Blue Moon of Josephine, originally known as the Blue Moon diamond, was discovered in January 2014 at the Cullinan Mine in South Africa. This historic mine, famous for producing rare blue diamonds, yielded a 29.62-carat rough stone that exhibited promising blue hues due to trace boron impurities. Shortly after, it was acquired by Cora International LLC, a New York-based diamond manufacturer, for $25.6 million—setting a record price per carat for a rough diamond at the time.
Examination Process
Before cutting, the rough diamond underwent extensive scientific examination to assess its potential. This included infrared (IR) spectroscopy conducted at the Smithsonian Institution's Department of Mineral Sciences using advanced equipment like the Thermo Scientific Nicolet 6700 FTIR spectrometer. The analysis confirmed it as a Type IIb diamond, with no detectable nitrogen and an uncompensated boron concentration of approximately 0.26 ± 0.04 ppm, responsible for its blue color. Additional tests revealed intense orange-red phosphorescence under short-wave UV light, lasting up to 20 seconds, with spectral peaks at 660 nm (dominant) and 500 nm. Birefringence imaging under crossed polarizers showed a "tatami" strain pattern with gray and blue interference colors, indicating internal stresses typical of such gems. No fluorescence was observed. These months-long studies, spanning from discovery to June 2014, were crucial for planning the cut to maximize color, size, and clarity while minimizing risks.
Cutting and Polishing
The cutting process, handled by Cora International in New York, took about six months and transformed the rough into a 12.03-carat cushion modified brilliant cut diamond (measuring 15.57 × 13.47 × 7.55 mm). This involved precise faceting to enhance brilliance and light return, incorporating a small culet facet to aid in flaw removal. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) graded it as Fancy Vivid Blue (the highest color saturation for blues) and Internally Flawless (IF), meaning no internal inclusions visible under 10x magnification.
The Breakthrough in Achieving Flawless Clarity
Achieving Internally Flawless clarity in the Blue Moon was a significant breakthrough because Type IIb blue diamonds, colored by boron, often feature structural weaknesses, inclusions, or uneven color distribution that make high-clarity cuts exceedingly difficult—especially in stones over 10 carats. Boron impurities can introduce defects that compromise the crystal lattice, leading to internal flaws that are hard to eliminate without sacrificing size or color intensity. Prior to this, large Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds rarely achieved IF clarity post-discovery, as the cutting process risked amplifying these issues or reducing the stone too much. The team at Cora International overcame these challenges through advanced examination techniques (like detailed spectroscopy and strain analysis) to map inclusions precisely, followed by skilled, risk-calculated faceting that removed imperfections while preserving the vivid hue and yielding a substantial 12.03-carat gem. This marked one of the first instances of a major blue diamond being cut to such perfection shortly after discovery, setting a new benchmark in gemology and contributing to its record-breaking auction sale in 2015.
The price of natural diamonds has been hit by the surge in demand for lab diamonds, but rare and historic natural diamonds, stll command super high prices. The Blue Moon diamond that originated in South Africa is a good example. Also known as the Blue Moon Of Josephine diamond. pic.twitter.com/NaLOHj6rUh
— Kaisilver (@jewelrythailand) March 8, 2025
4
Apollo (the Memory of Autumn Leaves)
2017 SOLD for CHF 42M by Sotheby's
The concentration of boron atoms in its crystal made it classify as Type IIb by the GIA, rarer than the Type IIa.
This diamond is pear shaped. Someone had the idea to choose a pink diamond of comparable cut and size. The two gems hanging each to a suite of two white diamonds thus constitutes temporarily the most sumptuous pair of earrings. They are named Apollo and Artemis by reference to the beautiful twins of Greek mythology.
The pair was divided. Artemis was sold for CHF 15.3M, lot 378. It is a Fancy intense pink Type IIa and VVS2 clarity weighing 16.00 carats.
The blue Apollo is now referred as The Memory of Autumn Leaves.
History of the Apollo Blue Diamond
The Apollo Blue diamond is a 14.54-carat, pear-shaped, Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, graded as internally flawless (IF) and Type IIb by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Type IIb diamonds, which exhibit blue coloration due to boron impurities, represent less than 0.5% of all diamonds and are prized for their rarity and electrical conductivity.
Origin and Mining
Blue diamonds like the Apollo are typically sourced from South Africa's Cullinan Mine (formerly known as the Premier Mine), which is renowned for producing large, high-quality Type IIb blue diamonds. The mine, discovered in 1902, has yielded many iconic gems, including the historic 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond. While the exact rough stone and mining date for the Apollo Blue are not publicly documented, its South African origin aligns with the mine's history of producing vivid blue stones, such as a 29.6-carat blue rough discovered in 2014 and a 39.34-carat blue rough acquired in 2021.
Pre-Auction History
Details on the diamond's journey from rough to polished form, including cutting and early ownership, remain private and undocumented in public records. It was likely part of a private collection before being consigned to Sotheby's, where it was paired with the Artemis Pink diamond and mounted as an earring for the auction. Sotheby's named it "Apollo Blue" after the Greek god, emphasizing its mythical rarity and pairing it with its "twin" to evoke divine power. No prior auction appearances or notable owners are recorded.2017 Auction and SaleOn May 16, 2017, at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale in Geneva, the Apollo Blue sold for $42.087 million (CHF 41,483,750, including buyer's premium), setting a record for the highest price per carat for a blue diamond at over $2.9 million per carat. It was purchased by an anonymous bidder via telephone.
Post-Auction Ownership and Current Status
Immediately after the sale, the anonymous buyer renamed the diamond "The Memory of Autumn Leaves." As of January 2026, there are no records of resale, exhibitions, or further public appearances, suggesting it remains in private ownership. It continues to be referenced as one of the most expensive blue diamonds ever sold, underscoring the growing investment appeal of fancy colored diamonds.
History of the Artemis Pink Diamond
The Artemis Pink diamond is a 16-carat, pear-shaped, Fancy Intense Pink diamond, graded as VVS1 clarity by the GIA. Pink diamonds derive their color from structural distortions in the crystal lattice rather than impurities, making them exceptionally rare.
Origin and Mining
While over 90% of natural pink diamonds originate from Australia's Argyle Mine in Western Australia, which closed in 2020, some reports indicate the Artemis Pink was mined in South Africa. Pink diamonds have also been found in Brazil, Russia, Tanzania, and occasionally South Africa, though the latter is uncommon. The exact mine and discovery date are not publicly known, but geological studies suggest pink diamonds formed around 1.3 billion years ago during the breakup of the supercontinent Nuna.
Pre-Auction History
Similar to the Apollo Blue, the Artemis Pink's early history—including rough extraction, polishing, and ownership—is not detailed in available records. It was matched with the Apollo Blue by Sotheby's for the auction, mounted as an earring, and named after the Greek goddess Artemis to symbolize its ethereal beauty and rarity. It likely came from a private consignor with no prior public sales noted.
2017 Auction and Sale
At the same Sotheby's Geneva auction on May 16, 2017, the Artemis Pink sold for $15.334 million (CHF 15,120,750, including buyer's premium). The same anonymous buyer acquired it, making the pair the most expensive earrings ever sold at auction (totaling $57.4 million), though they were auctioned as separate lots.
Post-Auction Ownership and Current Status
The buyer renamed it "The Dream of Autumn Leaves" shortly after the purchase. No subsequent sales or public displays have been reported as of January 2026, indicating it stays in the same private collection. The diamond is often cited alongside its blue counterpart as a benchmark for fancy colored diamond values.Both diamonds' histories are notably private prior to 2017, with their fame stemming primarily from the record-breaking auction. They exemplify the market's enthusiasm for rare colored diamonds, driven by their scarcity and aesthetic appeal.
The breathtaking Apollo and Artemis #Diamonds lead our Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels sale in #Geneva this spring https://t.co/uJ1tcXugGg pic.twitter.com/hW0pbkPf7D
— Sotheby's (@Sothebys) April 10, 2017
5
Bleu Royal
2023 SOLD for CHF 39.5M by Christie's
Pear shaped and brilliant faceted, and perfectly symmetrical, Bleu Royal belonged for half a century to a private collection. It is now fitted on a platinum and 18k rose gold ring between two D-color internally flawless diamonds of 3.12 ad 3.07 carats.
Bleu Royal was sold for CHF 39.5M by Christie's on November 7, 2023, lot 87.
History of the Bleu Royal diamond
The Bleu Royal is a rare 17.61-carat pear brilliant-cut diamond, graded as Fancy Vivid Blue (the highest color intensity for blue diamonds) and Internally Flawless (IF) in clarity by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). It belongs to the Type IIb category, which accounts for less than 0.5% of all diamonds and is characterized by the presence of boron atoms that impart the blue hue; overall, blue diamonds represent under 0.02% of mined diamonds, making Fancy Vivid examples exceptionally scarce. The stone measures approximately 25.36 x 21.78 x 9.35 mm and features precise faceting that balances the marquise and round brilliant cuts, enhancing its vivid color saturation while preserving its size—a challenging feat for colored diamonds. It was presented as a ring, flanked by two pear-shaped D-color, IF white diamonds of about 3 carats each.
Blue diamonds like the Bleu Royal form deep within the Earth's mantle under extreme pressure, where trace boron replaces carbon atoms in the crystal lattice, creating the color. However, specific details about its mining origin or discovery—such as the exact mine or country—are not publicly documented, as is common for many high-value gems with private histories. Many historic blue diamonds trace back to regions like India's Golconda mines or South Africa's Cullinan mine, but no such provenance has been disclosed for this stone.
Prior to its public debut, the Bleu Royal remained in an important private collection for approximately 50 years, with no records of prior ownership, sales, or notable events available. This anonymity is typical for ultra-rare gems, shielding owners from scrutiny while the diamond was likely held as an investment or heirloom.
The diamond entered the public spotlight in 2023 when it was consigned to Christie's for its first-ever auction appearance. It headlined the Magnificent Jewels sale during Geneva Luxury Week on November 7, 2023, at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, with a pre-sale estimate of US$35-50 million (available upon request). Bidding opened at CHF 19 million and intensified among three telephone bidders, lasting about seven minutes before hammering at CHF 34 million. Including buyer's premium, it sold for CHF 39,505,000 (approximately US$43.8-44 million) to an anonymous Asian buyer represented by Isaac Choi, General Manager for South China at Christie's. This marked its transition to a new private collection after decades in seclusion.
As the largest IF Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever offered at auction—and one of fewer than 10 blue diamonds over 10 carats to appear publicly—it ranks among the rarest gems in history, surpassing predecessors like the 10.95-carat Bulgari Blue (sold for US$15.8 million in 2010) in size but falling short of records like the 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue (US$57.5 million in 2016). The sale underscored the escalating demand for top-tier colored diamonds amid limited supply, cementing the Bleu Royal's status as a "miracle of nature" and the most expensive jewel auctioned in 2023.
WATCH: The vivid blue diamond 'Bleu Royal' - which is set in a ring - is among the rarest ever to be unearthed. At 17.6 carats, it is also the largest of its kind https://t.co/3phvuSzqDa pic.twitter.com/goMk9iZhkq
— Reuters Asia (@ReutersAsia) November 2, 2023
Special Report
Technological Advancement in Gem Mining
Exploration and Surveying
- Drones and Aerial Mapping: Drones equipped with geophysical sensors provide real-time 3D mapping of mining sites, even in low-light underground environments, enabling quick surveys of remote or hazardous areas. They identify gem-bearing deposits like kimberlite pipes for diamonds or alluvial zones for sapphires, reducing manual scouting risks. For instance, companies like Exyn Technologies use autonomous drones for hyper-accurate mapping, which can apply to ruby mines in Myanmar by pinpointing optimal excavation spots.
- Airborne SQUID Technology: Superconducting Quantum Interference Devices (SQUID) detect magnetic anomalies from aircraft, identifying kimberlite formations in challenging terrains like South Africa's Northern Cape. This has revolutionized diamond exploration by confirming hidden deposits non-invasively.
- AI for Deposit Prediction: Machine learning algorithms analyze geological data to predict kimberlite bodies or gem locations, using studies of mineralization and host rocks. ALROSA's methodology, for example, forecasts local diamond sources, potentially adaptable for sapphire vein detection in Kashmir.
- Autonomous Vehicles and Automation: Self-driving haul trucks and rail systems operate 24/7 with lower costs (up to 15% reduction) and added safety, as seen in Rio Tinto's Pilbara fleet where 20% of trucks are autonomous. In gem mining, this minimizes human exposure in unstable ruby or sapphire tunnels, with subterranean vehicles handling ore transport in diamond operations.
- Robotics and Non-Explosive Techniques: Robots perform precise extraction in high-risk areas, while tunnel-boring machines and water jetting replace explosives for ore fragmentation. At South Africa's Star Diamond Mine, water jetting boosts recovery grades from 40 to 55 carats per hundred tons by efficiently mucking ore and preserving large stones.
- Digital Twinning: Virtual replicas of mine ecosystems, powered by IoT sensors, simulate operations for predictive planning. This assesses geological impacts and optimizes layouts in sapphire or ruby mines, enhancing decision-making without physical trials.
- XRT Sorting Machines: X-Ray Transmission (XRT) technology sorts ore to recover larger diamonds from kimberlite, as used at Australia's Merlin Mine. Low-water automated systems enable selective waste rejection, applicable to colored gems like emeralds by improving efficiency and reducing environmental impact.
- CAD/CAM and 3D Printing: Computer-Aided Design/Manufacturing allows intricate gem cuts previously impossible, with 3D printing producing custom tools onsite for rapid repairs in remote mines. This is crucial for polishing sapphires or rubies, ensuring consistency.
- Spectroscopy and X-Ray Fluorescence: These tools analyze chemical composition for grading, detecting treatments in gems like heated rubies, replacing manual methods for faster, accurate certification.
- Virtual Reality (VR): Immersive simulations train workers on machinery and site navigation safely, cutting costs and risks. In gem mining, VR replicates underground diamond shafts or ruby extraction scenarios.
- AI and Selective Mining: AI halves task times by guiding exploration and automating equipment, while selective leaching treats low-grade ores with minimal waste. This promotes eco-friendly practices, aligning with zero-waste goals in the minerals sector.
- Overall Digital Transition: Industry 4.0 integrates these for energy-efficient, selective operations, though adoption lags in conservative mining firms.
Drones & 3D Mapping : Surveying deposits for diamonds/sapphires
Faster, safer site assessment; reduced manual labor
Autonomous Vehicles : Ore transport in ruby/diamond mines
24/7 operations; 15% cost reduction
AI Prediction : Locating kimberlite or gem veins
Precise exploration; minimized waste
XRT Sorting : Recovering large stones from ore
Higher recovery rates (e.g., 40-55 cpht)
VR Training : Simulating extraction processes
Enhanced safety; lower training costs
Digital Twinning : Virtual mine simulations
Better planning; sustainability improvements
These advancements not only boost productivity but also address ethical concerns by reducing environmental footprints and improving worker safety, with ongoing integration in both large-scale diamond operations and smaller colored gem artisanal mines.