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  • Work in Progress

OnlyWatch

Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
​See also : Time pieces  New watches  Patek Philippe  Perpetual calendar  Clocks  
Chronology : 2010-2019  2015  2019  2021  2024

Intro

OnlyWatch is a charity auction of watches, which takes place every second year. The first event was in 2005 in Monaco under the patronage of the Prince, with Antiquorum at the hammer.

Swiss brands are invited to provide a unique specimen for the benefit of a charity supporting the research against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

The OnlyWatch event has become the high end showcase for contemporary Swiss watches and their technological improvements.

​No premium applies.


The OnlyWatch principle, which is to have submitted by each manufacturer a unique model at auction, is necessarily pleasing Patek Philippe. For nearly a century, the models made as a single specimen were used as benchmarks for the technological developments and the design changes of the brand.

In 2007, the contribution of Patek Philippe to OnlyWatch was a unique 5712T Nautilus in titanium, sold € 525K.

On September 23, 2011, in the sale operated by Antiquorum, Patek Philippe sold for € 1.4M a unique watch based on the model 3939. This smart tourbillon watch is fitted with a beautiful black enamel dial.

2013 Patek Philippe 5004
2013 SOLD for € 2.95M by Antiquorum

The fifth edition of the OnlyWatch sale took place in Monaco on September 28, 2013. Every second year, the best watchmakers offer a specimen guaranteed by them as unique. The proceeds benefit the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. The hammer was entrusted to Antiquorum.

OnlyWatch is somewhat comparable to a trade show, as the brands display here for collectors and press the best advances from their design departments. In 2013, 34 brands have responded. From the beginning, Patek Philippe contributes with outstanding pieces.

For once, Patek Philippe offers a model of the past, the 5004, commercially stopped two years ago when they started the 5204. 5004 is a grande complication watch including perpetual calendar, leap year and chronograph, and 30 meter water resistance.

The 5004 watch for sale in Monaco has been made in titanium in 2013, and is the only specimen made in this metal, reference 5004T. The catalog indicates a wish price between € 400K and 600K. It is illustrated on the page shared by Watchonista. It was sold for € 2.95M.

2015 Patek Philippe 5016A-010
2015 SOLD for CHF 7.3M by Phillips

Patek Philippe responds most often to the OnlyWatch rules of uniqueness with a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions : titanium in 2007 and 2013, steel in 2011, 2015 and 2024.

​The Patek Philippe 5016A-010 sold by Phillips on November 7, 2015 fetched CHF 7.3M.
Perpetual Calendar
2015

2017 Patek Philippe 5208T-010
2017 SOLD for CHF 6.2M by Christie's

The 2017 OnlyWatch event was entrusted to Christie's on November 11.

Patek Philippe regularly offers a high-end model in a refractory metal unusual in its similar productions.

The titanium reappeared in 2017 with the unique Patek Philippe 5208T-010, lot 12 sold for CHF 6.2M.

Released in 2011 with a platinum 5208P version, the 5208 is a triple complication watch : minute repeater, mono-pusher chronograph and perpetual calendar with apertures and phases of the moon taking into account the leap year. It is resistant to moisture and dust but not to water. Its removable back case can be replaced by a transparent back in sapphire crystal providing visibility onto the inside. It is assembled with more than 700 parts.

In the ever-improving range of the Patek Philippe complication watches, the 5208 is the first wristwatch whose triple complication includes a chronograph, unlike the 5207 released in 2008 with a tourbillon.

2019 Patek Philippe 6300A-010
2019 SOLD for CHF 31M by Christie's

In 2014, for celebrating the 175th anniversary of the brand, Patek Philippe release their first Grandmaster Chime wristwatch under the reference 5175 edited in seven units. Its 20 functions required 1,366 components for the movement and 215 components for the case, surpassing the 6200 Sky Moon Tourbillon. It is the achievement of 60,000 hours of development over seven years.

The 5175 is 48 mm in diameter and 16 mm in height with 11 pushers and buttons. Its central mechanism activates in parallel the visual reading on two dials including the perpetual calendar, the chimes of hours, quarters, minutes and day, and the acoustic alarm preselected with an accuracy of a quarter of an hour. The running time of the mechanical winding is 72 hours in silent mode and 30 hours in grande sonnerie.

Two of these applications are unprecedented : the insertion of an alarm in a wristwatch, and the audible indication of the day in the month in two digits covering 1 to 31 by the tens and units. The watch also strikes on demand the current hour and minute. A security prevents the user from operating two mechanisms at the same time if they are not compatible.

The reference 6300G in gray gold launched in 2016 is similar to the 5175 except that the references to the celebration have been removed.

The 2019 OnlyWatch auction was managed by Christie's in Geneva on November 9.

According to the rules applicable to this operation, each manufacturer offers a watch for which it guarantees that it is and will remain a one-off. On that year Patek Philippe supplies the unique copy of Grandmaster Chime in stainless steel, reference 6300A-010, lot 28. The steel improves the sound. It is inscribed "The Only One" on one of the dials. It was sold for CHF 31M.

The lot includes a one-day private tour of the workshops and museum for two people and a lunch with Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe.
Time Pieces
Patek Philippe
New Watches
Decade 2000-2019
2019

2021 by Christie's

​1
​Patek Philippe Desk Clock
SOLD for CHF 9.5M

Patek Philippe made a bang in the 2019 OnlyWatch charity auction with the unique example of the model 6300A-010 that fetched CHF 31M. It is derived from the Grandmaster Chime which is the most complicated wristwatch in their catalogue.

To go forward in 2021, the brand cleverly offered a clock that will not invite for a comparison with the 2019 entry.

This item is a modern version of an Art Déco desk clock made by them in 1923 for the demanding customer James Ward Packard which is kept in the Patek Philippe Museum. Henry Graves Jr managed to have a similar time piece. The Packard complicated clock was equipped with a perpetual calendar and moon phases with an eight-day power reserve. It is made of silver with solid-gold feet and inlays.

The OnlyWatch clock is the unique example of the 27001M-01 model. 
The angular shape with a hinged lid of this 165 x 125 x 76 mm instrument has no equivalent in the modern catalogues of the brand.

It features a perpetual calendar, moon phases, day-night indicator, week-number display and has a power reserve of 31 days and a precision rate of 1 second per day. The case and the cabinet are in sterling silver with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut inlays. In an additional exquisite refinement the dial is in a similar yellow gilt opaline hue as the 6300 of 2019.


The hammer was entrusted to Christie's on November 6, 2021. The Patek Philippe desk clock was sold for CHF 9.5M, lot 41. Please watch the video shared by Watch I love.
Clocks
2021

2
​FFC by Journe
​SOLD for CHF 4.5M

Every 2nd year since his first participation in 2015 F.P. Journe is able to donate for OnlyWatch a piece which is not unique by some mere detail but displays an unprecedented range of characteristics and complications.

The 2015 watch, sold for CHF 550K, was the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu, inspired from the Chronomètre Bleu, fitting a rose gold movement with remontoir d'égalité in a tantalum case.

The 2017 watch, sold for CHF 1.15M, was a monopusher split-seconds chronograph with a specially designed movement which will be a forerunner of the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante sport watch.

The 2019 entry was the Astronomic Blue displaying on the front side the hours, minutes and seconds of average time, the hours and minutes of sidereal time, plus sunrise and sunset, day and night, moon phases and the power reserve. The annual calendar and the equation of time are on the back dial.

Its rose gold calibre with remontoir d'égalité is fitted in a special tantalum case 44 mm in diameter and 13.75 mm thick. Its 18 functions and complications are operated by 758 components.


The Astronomic Blue was sold for CHF 1.8M by Christie's for OnlyWatch on November 9, 2019, lot 11.

The entry by FP Journe for the 2021 OnlyWatch sale was a wristwatch based on the 20 years old Octa Calibre 1300. The hours are displayed by the appearance of the mobile fingers of a blue human hand while the minutes are driven by a rotating disk.

This instrument referred as the FFC Blue is unique, as required by the OnlyWatch rules. The tantalum case has been specially designed for this charity operation.

It is inscribed with references to Ambroise Paré and Francis Ford Coppola.

Ambroise Paré, the 16th century father of modern surgery and prosthetics, had invented a mechanical hand and artificial limbs operated by multiple catches and springs which simulated the joints.

During a dinner in 2012 at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in the Napa Valley, the filmmaker challenged François-Paul Journe to tell time with a human hand in a watch. He later supplied the sketches for the positions of the automaton to display twelve hours with the five fingers. The development of this unprecedented time instrument spanned seven years from 2014 onward.

That Journe FFC prototype was sold by Christie's on November 6, 2021 for CHF 4.5M, lot 22.

3
​Royal Oak Jumbo by Audemars Piguet
​SOLD for CHF 3.1M

The Royal Oak is a success story of the Audemars Piguet brand. It was designed by Gerald Genta with a steel case embedding the ultra thin self winding Calibre 2121. This 50 m water resistant luxury sport watch remained basically unchanged. Its signature octagonal bezel inspired from diving helmets, its guilloché tapisserie pattern dial and its integrated bracelet are enjoyed by the watch lovers.

The original Royal Oak was the reference 5402A. Its closest  version is the 15202 with the  Calibre 2121 fitted in an extra thin case 8.1 mm thick in gold, platinum or steel. It is nicknamed Jumbo.

The entry of Audemars Piguet in the 2021 OnlyWatch sale is a Jumbo cased in sandblasted titanium with a grey tapisserie dial, announced as the last unique 15202 using the Calibre 2121. The bezel and the bracelet combine that titanium with polished palladium based Bulk Metallic Glass. The sale was operated by Christie's on November 6, 2021. It was sold for CHF 3.1M, lot 6.

2024 by Christie's

1
​6301A by Patek Philippe
​SOLD for CHF 15.7M

Philippe Dufour had been the pioneer of the integration of the grande and petite sonnerie and of the minute repeater, in a single pocket watch in 1989 and in a wristwatch in 1992.

The platinum wristwatch reference 6301P released in 2020 by Patek Philippe offers the same grandes complications. It integrates 703 components and its dial is in Grand Feu black enamel. Patents apply to are linked to the striking mechanism and to the jumping small seconds mechanism. The winding is manual. Its original price was CHF 1,150,000 including fees.

For the 2024 OnlyWatch Patek Philippe donated a unique similar watch in steel dated in that year, reference 6301A-010. It was sold for CHF 15.7M from a lower estimate of CHF 1.5M, lot 32. The sale was operated by Christie's in Geneva on May 10, 2024.
​
This piece has a Grand Feu blue green enamel hand guilloché dial with a swirling pattern set with 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers.
2024

2
​Talisman Origine by Richard Mille
SOLD for CHF 2.38M

Watch manufacturers have long understood that entrusting their best models to aviators, racers or mountain climbers was an effective way to demonstrate the reliability. The frantic move of the wrist of a tennis champion was also a great idea, materialized in 2010 by a partnership between Richard Mille and Rafael Nadal.

Despite its thickness, 11.8 mm, the RM 027 was in period the lightest mechanical watch in the world : 13 grams, less than 20 grams including the strap. After being used for nearly one year by Nadal, it was sold for € 510K by Antiquorum for OnlyWatch on September 23, 2011.

This strategy of sponsoring a champion still feeds the contribution of the brand to OnlyWatch.

Yohan Blake is one of very few sprinters who are able to compete with Usain Bolt, his Jamaican fellow. He used an RM 038 adapted to meet his personal requirements. The new light alloys based on magnesium enhance the resistance to wear and heat. This skeleton watch with a tourbillon movement was involved in his successful participation at the Olympic Games in London in 2012, two silver medals behind Bolt and the gold in the 4 x 100 m. His watch was sold for € 350K by Antiquorum on September 28, 2013.

In 2021 the bespoke RM 067-02 of the Formula One driver Charles Leclerc painted in the colors of his flag was sold for CHF 2.1M, lot 45. That model was in period the lightest automatic watch of the Richard Mille collection.

The piece offered by Richard Mille in the 2024 OnlyWatch auction is neither a wristwatch nor a pocket watch but an original concept of talisman watch hanging to a necklace through a pair of horns, imagining the shamanic know how of some prehistoric tribe.

​This unique Talisman Origine reference RM S14 has a case in satin finished red gold with elements in high grade titanium. The automatic winding tourbillon is skeletonised. Mysterious symbols are engraved.

It was sold for CHF 2.38M from a lower estimate of CHF 600K, lot 38.

Such an enigmatic piece follows the trend of the 2023 Devil's Horn released by Richard Mille in an edition of 50 under the reference RM 66.

​Also made in red gold with titanium, this model has its bezel and caseback machined in the Richard Mille factory with Carbon TPT® which provides an almost damascened appearance. A red gold hand is holding the sign of the devil's horn finger gesture. The flying tourbillon is skeletonised.

An example was sold for CHF 850K before fees by Christie's on May 14, 2024, lot 23.

3
​Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique
2024 SOLD for CHF 2.1M

Akrivia, operating in Geneva, was founded in 2012 as an atelier d'horlogerie by the Kosovo born Rexhep Rexhepi. They specialize in complicated movements and operate two collections of models, inscribed respectively Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia is the Greek word for Precision. Their main ambition is to synthesize a contemporary style with traditional and artisanal watchmaking methods. The movement finishing is a specialty of the workshop.

In 2018 a Chronomètre Contemporain is the first model inscribed Rexhep Rexhepi. The number 3/25 of the RRCC1, made in 2019, was sold for CHF 1.16M by Phillips on May 11, 2024, lot 58.

The prices recorded at OnlyWatch attest for the progress of the brand.

A Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain was sold for CHF 360K in 2019, lot 49 achieving the 4th highest price behind Patek Philippe, Journe and Audemars Piguet. It was the very first Akrivia with a case manufactured by Hagmann.

The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II featuring a new calibre was sold for CHF 800K at the 2021 OnlyWatch, lot 1. It is made in platinum with a grand feu enamel dial.

Offered in 2024, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique RRCA in a stainless steel Hagmann case was sold for CHF 2.1M from a lower estimate of CHF 100K, lot 37. The movement ring, case back and dial plate form a Faraday cage protecting the movement against magnetism for an improved accuracy.
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