Jadeite
Except otherwise stated, all results include the premium.
not including Khotan green
See also : Jewels II Qianlong Cartier
Chronology : 1750- 1759 1800-1809 1933
not including Khotan green
See also : Jewels II Qianlong Cartier
Chronology : 1750- 1759 1800-1809 1933
Intro
The ancient Chinese knew to work with nephrite, using sandblasting techniques to create complex shapes. Jadeite was a sensational discovery traditionally attributed to the Tang dynasty. Both materials have a similar hardness and are associated under the generic term of jade, yu in Chinese.
The rarity and beauty of the jadeite made it a prerogative of the emperors. Its shaping requires a detailed observation of the rough stone and a long patience. Its emerald green color and its transparency can be marred by cracks that will expand during grinding or carving, or by chemical impurities that will cancel the visual homogeneity of the piece.
The use of jadeite in high jewelry finds its culmination during the reign of Qianlong. The lacking of new deposits of sufficient quality made its process regressing despite an undeniable easier practice offered by modern machine tools.
Jadeite exists in various colors. Green is a common color of jadeite when it contains chromium. The finest hues are Imperial green, intense green and vivid green. They come almost exclusively from Burma, currently Myanmar. As with pink diamonds, very subtle differences significantly change the price and a direct inspection remains highly recommended.
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of a rough is lost. Keeping the homogeneity in a set of beads generated much waste, so that the necklaces of round beads are the most appreciated.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them. The jadeite is polished without facets, to better display its almost aqueous luminosity.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
On October 7, 2013, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M a set of two homogeneous necklaces with an amazing total of 254 emerald green jadeite beads. The size of jade beads ranged between 3.5 and 10 mm and the length of the necklaces was 76 and 80 cm. That set was so prestigious that a previous owner traded it for an entire mansion in Shanghai. This story takes place about 70 years ago, during a very difficult period of the Republic of China.
The rarity and beauty of the jadeite made it a prerogative of the emperors. Its shaping requires a detailed observation of the rough stone and a long patience. Its emerald green color and its transparency can be marred by cracks that will expand during grinding or carving, or by chemical impurities that will cancel the visual homogeneity of the piece.
The use of jadeite in high jewelry finds its culmination during the reign of Qianlong. The lacking of new deposits of sufficient quality made its process regressing despite an undeniable easier practice offered by modern machine tools.
Jadeite exists in various colors. Green is a common color of jadeite when it contains chromium. The finest hues are Imperial green, intense green and vivid green. They come almost exclusively from Burma, currently Myanmar. As with pink diamonds, very subtle differences significantly change the price and a direct inspection remains highly recommended.
These green variants were the most precious jewels at the Qing imperial court, in the form of beads, cabochons and bangles, without superfluous embellishment. The history of the extraction of a rough is lost. Keeping the homogeneity in a set of beads generated much waste, so that the necklaces of round beads are the most appreciated.
This mineral rock can be carved, which is not the case of the diamond which is cut. Shaping a jade bead requires an exceptional know-how and skill which culminated during the reign of Qianlong. In the 19th century the Empress Dowager Cixi was fond of them. The jadeite is polished without facets, to better display its almost aqueous luminosity.
Despite the troubles in the China of the later Qing, the most important collections of jade beads were not mixed or separated. They have often been assembled, or re-assembled, into necklaces in the 20th century, with gently graduated bead sizes and with clasps in diamond or ruby. A perfect necklace must be uniform in color shade, in translucency and in texture, which requires that the elements have been carved from the same rough.
On October 7, 2013, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M a set of two homogeneous necklaces with an amazing total of 254 emerald green jadeite beads. The size of jade beads ranged between 3.5 and 10 mm and the length of the necklaces was 76 and 80 cm. That set was so prestigious that a previous owner traded it for an entire mansion in Shanghai. This story takes place about 70 years ago, during a very difficult period of the Republic of China.
Necklace
1
Qing and 1933 ex Barbara Hutton
2014 SOLD for HK$ 214M by Sotheby's
The prestige of jade reached the Western world. A lot of 27 highly reflective emerald green jadeite beads, between 15.4 and 19.2 mm in diameter, is included in 1933 in the inventory of Cartier.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M from a lower estimate of HK $ 100M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847.
It is mounted in the same year by Cartier as a necklace with a clasp in ruby and diamond, to be offered as a wedding gift to the wealthy Barbara Hutton by her father. As Christina Onassis later, Barbara Hutton had a difficult life. The husband's family kept the precious necklace.
Considered as the greatest jadeite necklace in existence, this jewel wins the highest auction price in its category each time it comes to auction : HK $ 15.6M in 1988 and HK $ 33M in 1994. It was sold for HK $ 214M from a lower estimate of HK $ 100M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1847.
2
Imperial Green
2020 SOLD for HK$ 81M by Sotheby's
The Imperial green is slightly more yellow than other emerald greens, without other secondary hues. The best gems have a similar saturation, translucency, inner luminosity and surface smoothness. It is named Type A jadeite jade by the gemologists.
A necklace of jadeite beads was sold for HK $ 81M by Sotheby's on July 10, 2020, lot 1808.
It is composed of 37 jadeite beads of highly translucent brilliant emerald green that meet the characteristics of the Imperial green. Its largest bead is approximately 13.69 mm. The clasp is set with a cabochon ruby surrounded by diamonds. Its length is about 50 cm.
A necklace of jadeite beads was sold for HK $ 81M by Sotheby's on July 10, 2020, lot 1808.
It is composed of 37 jadeite beads of highly translucent brilliant emerald green that meet the characteristics of the Imperial green. Its largest bead is approximately 13.69 mm. The clasp is set with a cabochon ruby surrounded by diamonds. Its length is about 50 cm.
3
2022 SOLD for HK$ 69M by Christie's
A necklace of jadeite fei cui beads with a clasp of ruby and diamonds on gold was sold for HK $ 69M from a lower estimate of HK $ 55M by Christie's on May 25, 2022, lot 1949. It is made of 33 beads ranging from 12.3 to 15.0 mm.
4
Imperial Green
2020 SOLD for HK$ 63M by Sotheby's
On October 7, 2020, Sotheby's sold as lot 1662 for HK $ 63M a necklace composed of 43 Imperial green jadeite beads from 13.00 to 11.26 mm weighing a total of 630 carats. The beads are in a highly translucent brilliant emerald green that meets the characteristics of the Imperial green. The clasp is set with diamonds. The necklace is about 53 cm long.
5
The Emperor's Treasure
2023 SOLD for HK$ 61M by Sotheby's
The Emperor's Treasure is a 57 cm necklace of intense Imperial green jadeite mounted in 18 karat white gold. Its clasp is decorated with rubies and diamonds.
The matched set of 43 jadeite beads is described in the Gübelin report as richly and evenly saturated combined with high translucency and very fine texture. They are slightly graduated from 13.05 to 11.55 mm.
The necklace was sold for HK $ 61M by Sotheby's on April 4, 2023, lot 88. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
The matched set of 43 jadeite beads is described in the Gübelin report as richly and evenly saturated combined with high translucency and very fine texture. They are slightly graduated from 13.05 to 11.55 mm.
The necklace was sold for HK $ 61M by Sotheby's on April 4, 2023, lot 88. Please watch the video shared by the auction house.
6
Imperial Green
2022 SOLD for HK$ 50M by Poly
On July 13, 2022, Poly sold a jadeite necklace for HK $ 50M, lot 2081. It is made of 43 Type A beads 13.59 to 11.42 mm in evenly intense green color with high translucency, This necklace 53 cm long is mounted in 18K gold with a diamond clasp.
On April 7, 2010, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M as lot 1457 a necklace 53 cm long, assembled with 35 jadeite beads, selected for their homogeneous vivid green color and for their similar size, between 12.5 and 15 mm. This piece is equipped with a clasp in platinum and diamonds signed by Cartier.
On April 7, 2010, Sotheby's sold for HK $ 43M as lot 1457 a necklace 53 cm long, assembled with 35 jadeite beads, selected for their homogeneous vivid green color and for their similar size, between 12.5 and 15 mm. This piece is equipped with a clasp in platinum and diamonds signed by Cartier.
7
Parure
2022 SOLD for HK$ 46M by Sotheby's
A composite parure of intense Imperial green jadeite and brilliant cut diamonds mounted in 18 karat white gold was sold for HK $ 46M by Sotheby's on April 29, 2022, lot 1885. The jadeite is described in the Gübelin report as evenly saturated combined with high translucency and fine texture..
The parure is made of a 42 cm necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring, with a total of thirteen oval jadeite cabochons. A row of three diamonds separates any suite of two cabochons in the necklace while the three rings are mounted with one cabochon over a diamond. The length of the oval cabochons is from 19.00 to 17.65 mm, excepted that of the ring which is the biggest at 20.05 x 18.45 x 6.45 mm. The overall jadeite weight is 231.70 carats.
The parure is made of a 42 cm necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring, with a total of thirteen oval jadeite cabochons. A row of three diamonds separates any suite of two cabochons in the necklace while the three rings are mounted with one cabochon over a diamond. The length of the oval cabochons is from 19.00 to 17.65 mm, excepted that of the ring which is the biggest at 20.05 x 18.45 x 6.45 mm. The overall jadeite weight is 231.70 carats.
Bangle
2014 SOLD for HK$ 44M by Sotheby's
Jadeite has a reputation to protect purity and virtue. It is one of the precious elements emanating from the creation of the world. In the same mythology, the circle of the heaven is a symbol of the eternity.
Legend attributes the first use of a jadeite bracelet to the consort of a Tang emperor. The search for perfection implies that the jade piece must be monolithic. The difficulty of realization is extreme because the cutting must not reveal cracks in the stone or a local loss in color or translucency.
The Qing encouraged the work of jadeite in the form of beads that will be assembled into necklaces, and in the form of bangles.
The rigid bracelets uninterrupted by a clasp are even more a mark of opulence when considering the losses of material by the central hollowing. These jewels could not maintain the desired perfection in large size and the emperors reserved them for the little wrists of their wives.
An oval piece 55.45 to 47.30 mm in internal diameter with a beautiful thickness of 13.41 mm probably realized under Qianlong by imitation of the antique taste was sold for HK $ 44M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1906.
The preferred shape under Qianlong is however the circle, symbol of the perfection of the heavens. Jade takes a role similar as the lotus in the link between the earthly soil and the mystic sky. A brilliant emerald green piece with a very good transparency and homogeneity measuring 56.86 mm passed at Sotheby's in Hong Kong on April 3, 2018, lot 1771.
The Circle of Happiness was sold for HK $ 30.4M by Sotheby's on April 20, 2021, lot 1766. It is described as a "cylindrical jadeite bangle of vivid emerald green color and very good translucency, with inner diameter and thickness approximately 55.21mm and 10.12mm". The gemologist observed "a subtle range of green to vivid green colours which is characteristic of the finest green jadeite-jade from Myanmar".
A smooth bangle that offers the sensational feature of being a perfect circle, 56 mm of inner diameter and 10.6 mm in thickness all around the circumference, passed at Sotheby's on October 4, 2016, lot 1790. Its color is intense and its translucency is excellent. It is not dated but an execution at the time of the Qianlong emperor is plausible because the demand for such a high skill could not have been maintained afterward.
Legend attributes the first use of a jadeite bracelet to the consort of a Tang emperor. The search for perfection implies that the jade piece must be monolithic. The difficulty of realization is extreme because the cutting must not reveal cracks in the stone or a local loss in color or translucency.
The Qing encouraged the work of jadeite in the form of beads that will be assembled into necklaces, and in the form of bangles.
The rigid bracelets uninterrupted by a clasp are even more a mark of opulence when considering the losses of material by the central hollowing. These jewels could not maintain the desired perfection in large size and the emperors reserved them for the little wrists of their wives.
An oval piece 55.45 to 47.30 mm in internal diameter with a beautiful thickness of 13.41 mm probably realized under Qianlong by imitation of the antique taste was sold for HK $ 44M by Sotheby's on April 7, 2014, lot 1906.
The preferred shape under Qianlong is however the circle, symbol of the perfection of the heavens. Jade takes a role similar as the lotus in the link between the earthly soil and the mystic sky. A brilliant emerald green piece with a very good transparency and homogeneity measuring 56.86 mm passed at Sotheby's in Hong Kong on April 3, 2018, lot 1771.
The Circle of Happiness was sold for HK $ 30.4M by Sotheby's on April 20, 2021, lot 1766. It is described as a "cylindrical jadeite bangle of vivid emerald green color and very good translucency, with inner diameter and thickness approximately 55.21mm and 10.12mm". The gemologist observed "a subtle range of green to vivid green colours which is characteristic of the finest green jadeite-jade from Myanmar".
A smooth bangle that offers the sensational feature of being a perfect circle, 56 mm of inner diameter and 10.6 mm in thickness all around the circumference, passed at Sotheby's on October 4, 2016, lot 1790. Its color is intense and its translucency is excellent. It is not dated but an execution at the time of the Qianlong emperor is plausible because the demand for such a high skill could not have been maintained afterward.
1752 Cinnabar Lacquer Box with Archer's Rings
2023 SOLD for HK$ 65M by Sotheby's
Since the Shang period the archers were using rings to protect the thumb from the string. This small piece was made of jade for the commanders and of hide for the troops. It was named 'she' in ancient China.
With time being, archery became less useful on the battlefield. The Qing dynasty, of Manchu origin, was fond of horse riding and revived the tradition of archery in their provincial armies known as the Eight Banners.
In the 17th year of his reign matching 1752 CE, the Qianlong emperor was presented with a jade ring which he praised in two poems as a reminder of the Manchu family law.
Around that time a cinnabar lacquer box and cover 12 cm in diameter was prepared to keep seven imperial rings. It is superbly carved in later Ming style with leaping carps, a homophony with joy and delight. These fish are swimming amidst cherry blossoms and crested waves. The base has the four character Qianlong mark.
The box was filled in compartments with archer's rings of identical form and size 3 cm in diameter and 2.2 cm high but in seven different colors of the jade : mutton fat white, translucent white with brown inclusions, mottled white and brown, translucent green jadeite with darker mottling, translucent spinach green with darker mottling, green-grey with brown skin and russet inclusions, white with a small russet patch. The rings have one rounded and one chamfered edge. A zitan liner was added in 1761.
All these elements were gradually inscribed with imperial appreciations. The poems inscribed on the rings date from 1757 to 1790. One of the white jades is also painted with a fishing scenery.
This set was sold by Sotheby's for HK $ 47M on April 8, 2007, lot 602 and for HK $ 65M on April 8, 2023, lot 15. Please watch the video shared in 2023 by the auction house.
With time being, archery became less useful on the battlefield. The Qing dynasty, of Manchu origin, was fond of horse riding and revived the tradition of archery in their provincial armies known as the Eight Banners.
In the 17th year of his reign matching 1752 CE, the Qianlong emperor was presented with a jade ring which he praised in two poems as a reminder of the Manchu family law.
Around that time a cinnabar lacquer box and cover 12 cm in diameter was prepared to keep seven imperial rings. It is superbly carved in later Ming style with leaping carps, a homophony with joy and delight. These fish are swimming amidst cherry blossoms and crested waves. The base has the four character Qianlong mark.
The box was filled in compartments with archer's rings of identical form and size 3 cm in diameter and 2.2 cm high but in seven different colors of the jade : mutton fat white, translucent white with brown inclusions, mottled white and brown, translucent green jadeite with darker mottling, translucent spinach green with darker mottling, green-grey with brown skin and russet inclusions, white with a small russet patch. The rings have one rounded and one chamfered edge. A zitan liner was added in 1761.
All these elements were gradually inscribed with imperial appreciations. The poems inscribed on the rings date from 1757 to 1790. One of the white jades is also painted with a fishing scenery.
This set was sold by Sotheby's for HK $ 47M on April 8, 2007, lot 602 and for HK $ 65M on April 8, 2023, lot 15. Please watch the video shared in 2023 by the auction house.
early Jiaqing pair of Seals
2010 SOLD for HK$ 79M by Sotheby's
The Jiaqing emperor succeeded his father Qianlong in 1796 CE. In terms of jade seals, he innovated early in his reign by having made three small sets in jadeite instead of the usual nephrite. The inscriptions of his seals often include his name.
A pair of large 7.1 cm square seals was sold by Sotheby's on October 7, 2010 for HK $ 79M from a lower estimate of HK $ 8M, lot 2102. The archives of the Jiaqing reign confirm that they were originally housed in the same case.
They respectively read Jiaqing yubi zhibao and jiaqing yulan zhibao meaning Treasure from the hand of the Jiaqing emperor and Treasure for the viewing pleasure of the Jiaqing emperor.
Their jadeite is transparent and lustrous, their green varying from dark to light with patches of white. Each button is made of an intertwined pair of carved and incised dragons with a detailed expression including bulging eyes and sharp fangs.
A pair of large 7.1 cm square seals was sold by Sotheby's on October 7, 2010 for HK $ 79M from a lower estimate of HK $ 8M, lot 2102. The archives of the Jiaqing reign confirm that they were originally housed in the same case.
They respectively read Jiaqing yubi zhibao and jiaqing yulan zhibao meaning Treasure from the hand of the Jiaqing emperor and Treasure for the viewing pleasure of the Jiaqing emperor.
Their jadeite is transparent and lustrous, their green varying from dark to light with patches of white. Each button is made of an intertwined pair of carved and incised dragons with a detailed expression including bulging eyes and sharp fangs.
